06 aveo starts, runs a few second, then dies

I have a 2006 Aveo LS automatic that I got since someone owed me some money. I am trying to sell the car and am having a little issue with it.

Day one: The car ran fine the day I picked it up (took on several short trips around my neighborhood too). Started and stopped it multiple times. Drove it probably 15 miles.

Day Two: The next day when I went to start it in the morning to go wash it, it started, ran for about 5 secs then died. It would turn over but not even attempt to start. (fuel pump did not prime at all) I disconnected the battery and it did the same thing (started, ran 3 secs, died). Did this several times. I then started the car and immediately revved it up. Seemed to run fine for a few blocks then died. After it died each time there would be no activity from the fuel pump unless I pulled the battery cable (only long enough to break the circuit). Once I pulled the battery cable the fuel pump would prime and run the car for a few secs.
I then disconnected the battery again and swapped the A/C relay with the fuel pump relay. It then ran great for a couple days. Problem solved right....WRONG?:mad:

Day four: I sold the car to a nice lady and she test drove it around, then came back for it later...NO issues. They called the next morning saying it would not start again!!!

Things done before I got it:
Swapped engine trans for a lower mileage unit (91k). Car has 231k on it
new o2 sensors

things I did:
swap relays
Degrease and Clean it really good
Install new Cat (it was bad and throwing a code..Likely why the o2 sensors were changed :rolleyes:)
No codes stored now

All fuses are good and not blowing any fuses the entire time. When I swapped relays, the fuel pump relay was warm, but not unreasonable.

What is the problem? Could it be ECM related? What ECM's are interchangeable?

You didn't say anything about the battery and charging system, so I'll ask if you checked the battery and did a full load tested on the alt?

Did not test the alternator, but it appears to be in good working order. No lights, and with all accessories turned on, there is no apparent change. The battery appears to have plenty of strength. It turns the car quickly and never bogged despite repeated starting attempts. Once it is running, the car stays running fine when the battery is disconnected.

New info: I can disconnect battery, swap relays, and the car will run fine all day. It will not start the next morning however. I have to repeat the previous step.

Could this be a fuel filter issue? Seems kinda unrelated at this point but maybe?

I don't think its a filter issue. Clogged filters will usually let you idle just fine, but as soon as you start putting power down you have issues as the demand for fuel increases. I find it odd that its not giving any codes...

Update: I finally got the car to start again. The DIS and Inj fuses were not getting power. I wiggle the key and throttle pedal around and got them to power up and the car fired right up and ran fine. Took in on several errands (close by) and it started everytime with no issues. I then let it sit for about 6 hours and went to start it about 10PM. Started and ran fine. Tried to start it about 8AM and no start and no power to the Inj & DIS fuses.

I read the codes while I had it running finally and it showed codes this time!
p2105
p2106
p0601
p0138

Is this seriously a throttle pedal issue?! It doesnt seem to follow what else I have researched.

Have you checked the wiring on the O2 sensors? One of the possible reasons for the 138 on the downstream O2 sensor is a short in the wiring. If universal sensors were used and the wires not trimmed properly, they might have hit a hot spot and partially melted.
I haven't had any of those codes myself, but on the web I see that some ECM or Throttle Body replacements fixed the problem. So you might also want to take a look to see if the throttle body is gunked up. I believe your '06 is the same as my '05, which means that the IAC and TPS can be removed, and cleaned or replaced. I've done that on mine and it's not a big job. Shouldn't be a need to replace the TB on these earlier Aveos, unlike the newer ones on which those parts can't be replaced.

Based on your codes, you are definitely showing signs of starving for fuel. The throttle codes are because you give it more or less gas and the engine does not accelerate, so the pedal does not match the engine rpm. The ECU code could be because it is not receiving the signal from the pedal.

The one that "confuses" me is the o2 sensor. I would think that would be a primary o2 code, not the secondary.

I would say it was an o2 if it was not for your codes. But with the codes, and your power supply issue to the DIS and inj it coul be a wiring issue or it could be the pedal assembly or the ecu.

What computers are directly swapable? Can I use and 08 ECM in my 06 if they were both automatics? What about throttle pedals?

There is an 08 parts car near my house!

This morning I tried starting it. Fired right up, ran 15 secs, then died. No power to Injectors again. I disconnected the negative battery terminal and when I connected it (key on), the Inj fuse has power (the car will always start when this has power). I hear an audible click at the throttle body and the fuse looses power. The longer the battery is disconnected, the longer the fuse stays on. I heated up the TB with hair dryer just for fun. No change. I heated up the computer with hair dryer, no change. Its about 60 degrees this morning. When the car is running fine I never hear the throttle body click like it does in the morning.

I finally noticed that if I put the key in a certain way I get to "key In" buzz. I can make the test light (on Inj fuse) go on and off by wiggling the key around while putting it in and out (I know that sounds dirty!) After about the 10th time it starts, it will run fine the rest of the day until it sits overnight. (it also appears to be temp related vs time) I can let it sit 8 hours during the day and start and run fine, 8 hours overnight and it wont start. They key only seems to affect this fuse power and the "buzz". It never affects the gauges, lights, radio, etc.

What I know: It's related to the Computer, the Throttle body/pedal, or the ignition switch/tumbler.

What I don't understand:
Is the ignition causing the ECM and TB to trip?
Is the ignition fine and just and ECM problem?
Is it a TB problem?
Is it just a bad pedal?
Each item is to Expensive to replace and hope it works!!

Since I hate posts that are never updated.......

I ended up selling the car as is. At the point of sale it was determined that if it died it would be able to be restarted by putting the key in and out several times and cycling it on and off several times. The car did not have any type of theft prevention on it.

I think it was either the ECM or the Ignition lock.

I've seen cases with Asian cars where the ig sw contacts carbon up and cause similar symptoms. Some you can even take apart and clean the contacts on.

-the crusty mechanic