07 Aveo5 Engine problems

[pwf]

I have been getting the service engine light as long with hesitation and like a coughing. I took my car to Auto Zone to hook the computer up to it and got these Codes, most of which didn't have a GM Troubleshooting definition and don't match the sticky that's at the top of the thread.


P161B
PO131
P0303
P2106
P2110

I believe there was one more but I didn't get that code.
Not even sure where to start. Some times it does run just fine, but some times it can't even get out of it's own way. let me know if you need more info from me.

Thanks!

[petrified.rabbit]

P161B- should be an 8 not a b? then is a "generic" transmission miss in communitcation code.
PO131- o2 sensor, primary
P0303- cylinder 3 misfire
P2106- throttle limited? acceleration so to speak.
P2110- throttle limited..

do you have abs? you obviously have an automatic.. i am leaning towards a coil pack in your case, because you said the problem is intermittent, that directly relates to the p0303 code and the p0131 codes. But if the car is going to safe mode (i wasn't aware we had that?) to prevent a high rev issue like the misfire and or trans computer communication, that is the p2106 and p2110 codes.

i would need to do some more research, and you would need to really know when the problem occurs: like only in high rpm, long driving time, cold or wet weather, if the problem start with ok idle, but a persistent hesitation to accelerate until code is set, etc.

in that case it could be something else.

[pwf]

The car is a 5 Speed. Has 94,000 on it
had regular synthetic oil changes.


the code is a B and not an 8.
The problems are very intermittent. The problem can usually be counted on to occur when you really step it down, as in pull into traffic or pass someone. If your cruising along at 55 with a set RPM you wouldn't know there is a problem. It does seem to run better when it is cold out. And a little worse when it is damp. There have been times I have gotten in the thing and you wouldn't know there was any problem other than the Service engine light. I can race it to high RPM and its all like it should be. There was even one time I got in it after work and it just sat there and chugged. Not even enough power to get out of the parking lot. I went inside for a bit went out again about 20 minutes later and it started right up. Only problems where the higher RPM pull into traffic cough.


Let me know if there is any more information you need. I would take it in to have it checked out, but I am not happy with the local dealership, and I wouldn't know where else to take it.

[pwf]

If you like on Monday I can scan the print offs and post them.

[pwf]

I do know when the Auto Zone guy and I were going through things there was an indication that it may be the ECU, however he didn't seem knowledgeable enough and the print offs were so generic I didn't feel it was a for sure fix, and at $329, i want to be sure this will take care of the problem, not just guess.

[petrified.rabbit]

i would like to see print offs, never heard of a p code ending in b..

BUT what cost $329? if you want to check the coil pack, and repair it for cheap. here is how:

testing it:

take a squirt bottle the can spray a really fine mist. remove the engine cover, start the car, mist the plug wires and coil pack with water. it really help to do this at night with no light. IF you see a light show on the coil its bad..

fixing it:

go buy a tube of high temp silicone, take the coil of, clean it, dry it really really good. fill anycracks you find, then coat the entire coil with silicone. except the plug and wire cap area. allow to dry.

reassemble, see if problem went away.

cost $5.

[pwf]

I will give this a try tomorrow night. Thanks so much for your advice and direction. I will scan the paperwork on Monday and get it up. I will also let you know what I find.

THANKS VERY MUCH

[pwf]

Went out and did what you suggested. I found the wires to be bad. It looks like something happened where they were cut across 2 maybe three of the wires. I got new wires and figured I would change the plugs right away as well. When I was changing the plugs the first one looked as it should but the following 3 had quite a bit of oil on them. I changed everything out anyway and took it for a run, the car runs better than it has in a long time, however the oil in the cylinders concerns me and the service engine light is still on.

Any ideas?

[pwf]

I guess the whole problem was the spark plug wires, after replacing them, the next day I checked the plugs and there was no oil in the cylinder any longer. The plugs looked just like they should. It looks like there may be some oil leaking from the cover. But I will check that when its warmer. Thanks VERY much for your help. Now I just need to figure out the clunk I have in the rider side rear and I should be set!

[petrified.rabbit]

the oil is likely a leaking valve cover gasket.. it seeps down the threads of the plugs. plug puddles a little bit and transfers when you take them out.

glad it worked out for you, did the light go out yet?