133.9 hp NA Aveo now become 144.6 hp

Hi guys,

need some advice. My aveo now was dyno-ed 133.9hp on the wheels. It is a 1.4 DOHC aveo for those who remembers.

I have since stroked it with Lanos crankshaft, modified the crankshaft sensor to fit, big-bored with 81.0mm wiseco pistons 11.1:1 compression with pocketed valve cuts. Also changed to forged H Beam rods with ARP bolts. And ARP head bolts. Using Cometic 1.3mm gasket. Resultant cc is about 1680cc.

The head were ported and polished. The trottle body was bored. The fuel pump was changed to Walbro 255 liters/hr and installed a return line with SARD fuel regulator. Injectors remained stock and unchanged.

The dual cams were from a 1.6 lanos brand new and regrinded in UK to 266 durations. The cams were about 1.1mm lift higher than the stock 1.4 cams.

The exhaust is a set of long 4-1 extractor, removed cat, 1.8 inch mid pipe and 1.8 inch HotBits rear semi flow muffler.

Currently running UNICHIP piggyback which is unable to remove the power cut at 6.6K rpm.

The dyno chart are as follow. Need some comments to how to improve it further.


http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/4...1editedyo9.jpg

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/885...1editediq8.jpg[/quote]

Oh yes, has since changed the rear muffler to Remus universal 46mm straight through exhaust. Now wondering whether to change the 1.8 inch (46mm) mid pipe to 2.0 inch. Do I need another round of tuning? If yes, I will go for another dyno and post the new dyno charts soon.

nice thats around 110 to the wheels

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AVE0SAM

nice thats around 110 to the wheels

---

Try closer to 122whp. Very good figures. Front wheel drive drivetrain lose is usually around 15%.

xiaogary I'm sure this isn't what you're looking for but have you considered a engine swap? A U20SED makes those figures with basic bolt ons. Since you started off with the 1.4 you probably only have the T18SED where you're at but those are almost identical. It's from the optra/lacetti btw, or better yet if you have the leganza there then the 2.2 but those usually cost a bit more.

actually isnt it 133 TO the wheels, I thought dyno's measured HP at the wheels, not at the crank unless its a dyno hooked straight up to the engine.

wow thats nice, i wish i had that power, lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by o4aveohb

actually isnt it 133 TO the wheels, I thought dyno's measured HP at the wheels, not at the crank unless its a dyno hooked straight up to the engine.

---

the graph would say whp not bhp

wait if he said it makes 134 wheel hp, that means he's making close to 150+ hp at the crank right??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mkt8891

wait if he said it makes 134 wheel hp, that means he's making close to 150+ hp at the crank right??

---

man this thread is confusing...title says 133.9 bhp but he says 133.9 to the wheels in his post...then the graph says bhp...if it is really 133.9 whp then holy crap that is a big gain over stock.

134 to the wheels would be reasonable with all the mods he has done.

Sometimes dynos (not just engine) read in bhp. What kind of dyno was this performed on?

bhp does not equal whp. Normally the dyno converts it when it prints. At least that is the way it was in England when I was there.
And as far as power adders go, you are not getting any better than a nitrous setup. People will say turbo and nupercharger but $/hp, nothing is better than nitrous. And when people say, "well you have to refill so it cost more in the end", just remember that at $40 a fill for a 10lb bottle that will last around 20+ full races, you have plenty of fills before you reach the price of a turbo/supercharger

not to go too far off topic here but remus mufflers are nice. i must request a vid of the sound. and yes, upgrade ur exhaust pipe size. what was the camshaft sensor mod?

I am sorry for he confusion. I know nothing abt bhp or whp. I only ask whether its on wheel or on engine bhp. The dyno guy told me its on the wheel. The dyno is a floor drum roller type. Yes, there is another graph which shows 161bhp peak. But I never print that as the dyno guy says its estimated/calculated figures by the dyno machine on the engine, so not accurate.

The original crank shaft has a stroke of 73.4mm. The sensor for crankshaft looks is the teeth like feature on the crankshaft as shown in the picture.

http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/7...nkshaftto2.jpg

The 81.5mm stroke crankshaft I bought off ebay is without the crankshaft's teeth-liked feature. Had to modify the crankshaft in order to fit in the teeth-like features in for the sensor to sense the rotation position.

http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/3...nkshaftud6.jpg

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/7...stons03er2.jpg

These are my pistons. Custom made 11.1:1 compression ratio. I don't think they can be turbo charged right?

NOS is interesting. Has anyone in the world installed NOS in Aveo before? Is it risky?

rotrex that biotch

all vehicle mods come with a risk. some more than others. nos if u used correctly can be a good mod but still has risks. hell a simple cai can destroy a motor.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AVE0SAM

rotrex that biotch

---

To high of a compression to get decent numbers. he could maybe push 4-6 lbs before something gave out.

Non is a brand, there are many other nitrous kits out there. Nitrous is safe when used correctly. just get quality parts and set it up safely.
Plus think of it this way. You spent almost 4-5 grand between all the parts you bought to get 40whp. Same thing could have been had with a $600 nitrous kit.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aveodude

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AVE0SAM

rotrex that biotch

---

To high of a compression to get decent numbers. he could maybe push 4-6 lbs before something gave out.

Non is a brand, there are many other nitrous kits out there. Nitrous is safe when used correctly. just get quality parts and set it up safely.
Plus think of it this way. You spent almost 4-5 grand between all the parts you bought to get 40whp. Same thing could have been had with a $600 nitrous kit.

---

i forgot what car we were talking about...there arent really much tuning options to be able to be running boost with that high compression

This is an original piston for a 1.6 aveo. Compared to the one I had. I doubt mine is high compression. I expected 11.1:1 compression ratio piston to be dome shape. End up, its flat with valve cutting. Does it look like high compression piston?

http://i9.ebayimg.com/08/i/000/df/2d/c4cb_1.JPG

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/7...stons03er2.jpg
How to check the compression ratio I had. If its not that high, I might add a Turbo charger for some boost. Since the internals are already forged. Or worst case, I might change the pistons to a new set of forged low compression if I intend to keep this car for long.

You can tell the ones you have are much taller. Look at the valve reliefs that are cut into them. If you decide to go with a lower comp pistons and then decide to turbo it, you are looking at a ton of money. Then you do that, the tranny will start to go out. If you wanna make a car fast, dont make it the aveo

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aveodude

You can tell the ones you have are much taller. Look at the valve reliefs that are cut into them. If you decide to go with a lower comp pistons and then decide to turbo it, you are looking at a ton of money. Then you do that, the tranny will start to go out. If you wanna make a car fast, dont make it the aveo

---

BUt actually, if its not an aveo, I am not interested to make it fast. Its so common seeing a fast civic or rex. I would not be interested to buy such car to play with since there are already so many fast one out there. Havinf a fast aveo is something out of the normal and the process of going through it is much more fulfilling.

Amen to that, a fast aveo would be unique

fair enough. I still say spray that bitch.

Anyone has any 2006 or newer engine for sale with the transmission and ECU? Or you know of any seller that would ship overseas?

I contacted a few US engine seller, but they do not ship overseas. I don't mind shipping by sea. As long as its cheap. Destination - A workshop in Singapore.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xiaogary

Anyone has any 2006 or newer engine for sale with the transmission and ECU? Or you know of any seller that would ship overseas?

I contacted a few US engine seller, but they do not ship overseas. I don't mind shipping by sea. As long as its cheap. Destination - A workshop in Singapore.

---

I have a 1.6 from a 2001 lanos sport. The timing belt went, don't know the damage but it has about $1,250 worth of P&P work done to the engine. It is also mated to a D16, close ratio since it came out of a lanos sport. It has a brand new water pump and I think a new clutch. It's only missing a thermostat. I need to check but I'm almost sure I have the ECU for it. I'll take any reasonable offer and have no problem helping with shipping. I've shipped an engine across the US and a tranny from the UK so I have some experience. Btw I'm in the West USA. Email me at Danny@KinkyMotorsports.com if you are interested.

I'd also be willing to split up the tranny and engine.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by o4aveohb

actually isnt it 133 TO the wheels, I thought dyno's measured HP at the wheels, not at the crank unless its a dyno hooked straight up to the engine.

---

atleast someone read the whole post

actually, some dyno shops will convert to flywheel/brake hp before printing the graph. BHP or brake horse power generally means power made by the engine before the drivetrain loss.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Aveo_Tuner

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by o4aveohb

actually isnt it 133 TO the wheels, I thought dyno's measured HP at the wheels, not at the crank unless its a dyno hooked straight up to the engine.

---

atleast someone read the whole post

---

:roll: well you have to read the pictures too...im pretty sure the graph wouldn't lie

I gotten quotes of $1300US for 04-05 aveo engine and $1400US for 07 aveo engine. Price inclusive of delivery to Singapore's workshop.

Now I am thinking of either buying a new 1.6 stock engine and Turbo it or NOS my existing stroked and bored 1680cc Aveo engine. But then again, with stock internal, its not that fun as its only limited to low boost. My exisiting engine internals are forged wiseco and forged con rods with ARP bolts.

I have heard stories of high compression having detonation problem with NOS. Mine is abt 11.1 to 11.6 compression with shaved head. I am having octance 98 petrol/gas in my country. The lowest grade of petrol I have here is 92 and 95. I usually use 98. Occasionally I will add some octane booster onto my 98 gas. Will detonation be a problem for NOS? So far no detonation problem in my high compression engine even when I pump 95 octane gas.

I have walbro fuel pump and SARD fuel regulator. What is the original aveo fuel pressure? I am having 55psi at idle now. Is that ok? Or do I need to increase some more. How much more do I need to increase to run NOS? Heard fuel richness and high octane gas is the only way to prevent detonation.

I have also seen civics running 12.6 compression ratio running 200-250 progressive shots with proper fuel supply and tuning outting 500+ horse power. I am not greedy. 50-75 shots from 82021 ZEX kit is enough for me. Is it possible?

This engine is awesome, keep in N/A and post some vids!

Thanks for the compliment.

I am looking for ways to upgrade it further. Is it possible to turbo charge it or NOS it?
One tuner told me, with high compression, I can go on light boost (about 0.5 bar). And there is no need to worry about turbo lag due to the high compression. But then he warned me that I might have to pump octane 98 petrol forever and even have to add octane booster.

I read from the manual of ZEX 82021 NOS kit (55 to 75 shots) that for every 50 shots, 1.5 to 2 degree of retard timing is required. But I understand that my current timing (as programmed in UNICHIP) are mainly modified to be advanced from 2-8 degree throughout the rpm range for the increase in power. Will that be a problem? I gained all the extra horses from the advances. Now if I were to retard, I will lose back those power and have newly gain from the NOS power. A bit contradicting. So need some expert advice now.

2-8 degrees if timing will give you MAYBE 3-4 hp. Nitrous will give a **** ton more than that, even on the smallest shot. It is suggested that you retard the timing but with a 35-50 shot, it isnt really necessary. I run a 75 shot on my other car with no timing changes.

That whole, no lag because of high compression, is crap. It is all about flow. If your exhaust ports flow well, you will have less lag. And on such high compression, I would boost it. It is just asking for problems.

In the daewoo community I see allot more warnings about detonation with turbos than other communities. I don't know if our engines are just more prone to detonation or if it's something that just got stuck in the communities heads. Anyways, that being said I know allot of people that raise compression on there cars (hondas, nissans, ect) AND add turbo. One friend is running 14:1 compression with 20-30psi but he is also on race fuel (probably 112 octane) and another friend is running 13:1 or 13.x:1 compression with 7psi on 92 or 93 octane. The last friend just finished his build and says he plans on turning the boost up once the kinks are worked through.

I would go with nitrous over a turbo with your build…. But a 1.8-2.2 over either of them. Nitrous will be less risky on your engine and you won’t have to run higher octane either.

Am running out of idea and direction.

Having a problem of importing NOS due to the strict custom. NOS is illegal item. Highly dangerously flammable goods.

Thinking of Rotrex now. But wonder whether to use C15-60, C30-64 or C30-74 base on 133mm crank pulley diameter.

If using 70mm diameter pulley on C15-60, will be running the rotrex at 145K rpm base on the 6400rpm rev cut. The limit is 150k. But wonder whats the boost at that rpm.

If using C30-74 and 70mm diameter pulley, will be running the rotrex at 119krpm, near the 120k rpm limit at 6400rpm rev cut. But also duno whats the boost at that rpm.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xiaogary

. Highly dangerously flammable goods.

---

Nitrous is not flammable.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aveodude

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xiaogary

. Highly dangerously flammable goods.

---

Nitrous is not flammable.

---

yes huh didnt you see the fast and the furious

Or rather compressed gas container not allowed. :lol:

Indeed I never watch Fast & Furious before. I only watch Fast & Furious 2. I missed the first one and didnt bother to buy a DVD/VCD to watch.

Rotrex C30-74.
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/2083/xiaogarykz9.jpg

Get one of these :twisted:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d9...k/DSC_6152.jpg