2004 Timing Belt questions

I'm working on my brother-in-law's aveo, and found out his timing belt was broken. I've taken the sheilds off, removed the old belt, and am currently trying to install the new one. The problem i'm having is this, the timing belt tensioner is apparently the water pump? I've been told to loosen the pump retaining bolts (which i'm assuming are the three around that area that req an allen wrench to undo) and rotate the water pump.... Is this going to have an effect on the pump's gasket? Do i need to drain my fluids before i do this? Please help....

Thanks,
Jesse

If the timing belt is broken there is almost certainly valve damage, is he willing to spend the money to fix it if there is?

Chances are that if the engine was running when the belt let go, some or all of the valves are bent. If you choose to continue putting the belt on, I would strongly urge you to replace the water pump as well. It seems that about six months after the belt gets changed the pump will crater and you're doing the tear down again. Moving the pump will destroy the seal/gasket.

Is there anyway to test whether or not the valves are damaged without disassebling the engine?

You'll have to remove the head. Unfortunately it's almost guaranteed he'll have some damage there.

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Originally Posted by Gabysguy

Is there anyway to test whether or not the valves are damaged without disassebling the engine?

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Unless you have a smoke machine or a boroscope, it has to come apart.

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Originally Posted by Gabysguy

Is there anyway to test whether or not the valves are damaged without disassebling the engine?

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Get you a compression tester and you can tell if they are not seated correctly. Twist it into the Spark plug port and you crank the engine over without starting it. Ideally you pull the spark plug wires off the plugs so as to not start the car. Pressure should be above 150 or close to it in all cylinders.

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Originally Posted by 05Aveo

Get you a compression tester and you can tell if they are not seated correctly. Twist it into the Spark plug port and you crank the engine over without starting it. Ideally you pull the spark plug wires off the plugs so as to not start the car. Pressure should be above 150 or close to it in all cylinders.

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Belt is broken - cranking now will surely bend valves.

if belt is broke more than likely valves are gone. Pull head and check it out.

New member here. Didn't know if I should start a new thread or continue this one....
Anyway I have the same problem, broken timing belt and looking for advice. I have no doubt that valves are toast and possibly more. Been reading other threads for some insight to what others have done.
First off, love my car and had it since new. Changed the timing belt every 90-100K (Km) and now have 330,000Km on it. Preliminary look at problem reveals that belt didn't snap but seems that the tensioner self destructed. Haven't pulled the head yet to see extent of damage. Preparing for the worst case scenario and started looking for an engine but they want way too much. Can't find anything less than $1500 (CND). Talked to a shop I trust and he says he can rebuild mind for $2500. I'm not an auto mechanic but am in a trade and don't have a problem tackling the job myself.
Need advice....
Option 1 - find a used motor, clean it up and instal (DIY)l. Cost $1500+. Downside - somebody else's motor.
Option 2 - Complete rebuild of what I have (DIY). Cost ??. Downside - may be beyond my skills
Option 3a - Get lucky and no damage beyond the head. Rebuild head (DIY). Cost $1000+
Option 3b - No damage beyond head. Buy a rebuild head assembly. Cost ??

Feedback....

Thanks

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Originally Posted by fitter46

New member here. Didn't know if I should start a new thread or continue this one....

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Better to start a new thread because if the OP comes back to this one, then everthing needs to be fully quoted, otherwise you can't tell which conversation you're in. Hopefully that won't happen here.

IMO, a full engine rebuild as a first-time DIY is a taking quite a gamble, unless you have an experienced engine guy helping you out. It only takes one stupid little thing done wrong to hose the entire job, and you won't find that out until the whole job is finished and you go to start it up. I would never try a rebuild for the first time on a daily driver that I'm depending on, unless there was no other choice.

The head/valve replacement however is a reasonable DIY which a number of guys here have successfully done, and would be much less costly than the numbers that you posted. The down side of doing that is that there may be damage down below that you can't see, so it's somewhat a roll of the dice. But I think it works out most of the time. So if what you can see of the block looks good after the head is pulled, then you might consider replacing the valves or buying a new head if that's a better option for you.

Just curious - did you replace the WP and pulleys with each new belt job, every other time, or something else?

Ok, new guy doing the same thing here. Where do you guys find a valve spring compressor that has jaws that will fit down into the pockets to undo the keepers?

Also, How do you get the valves to receed back into the head far enough to allow the spring to compress enough to undo the keepers?

This is an '06 Aveo that my son in law bought from a tennant for back rent. All of the intake valves are bent , but it doesn't look like any of the exhaust valves touched. Do you cut the heads off, or can you rebend the valves enough to let them retrack enough to allow keeper removal?
thanks,
Mike Sal