2005 Aveo with a bad belt

[bitter-fitter]

I did not have to remove the coolant tube from the back of the head. I believe this is part of the head assy. and came with my rebuilt head. For the studs; I double nutted them, jambed the nuts against each other and got them to turn. They were thread locked in but came out with a little work. Probably one of the hadest parts of the rebuild. NOTE: Car still works great after everything I did. Only problem I had was an engine light caused by a poor connection at the coolant temp. sensor on the back of the head. Make sure to connect this when installing the head as it is hard to get to latter. I found out the hard way!!

[guero6371]

Hey just wondering how your aveo turned out?? Im going through a similar situation right now due to a guy leaving my waterpump bolts loose and the coolant all leaking out.

[faithjr]

If the pictures in your post are from the engine you are saying just needs a head you better think again those pistons are shot. not to mention you could have bent rods crank and a whole other bunch of issues. I know I'm redoing my 05 right now!!

[jonota]

Not sure who you're talking to there? If you're responding to someone, usually best to include that avatar in your post. If it's to me, my pistons show little to no damage. Obviously there was a hit, as the head is ruined, but all pistons come to TDC smoothly, and have only slight burring along the valve reliefs for visible damage.

On another note, if someone experiences the same issue I did with the coolant tube, it is pressed in there rather tight, but gently tapping it side to side, and up and down, lightly with a hammer for about 5 minutes finally got it out.

Here's hoping.....

[faithjr]

Yes I was responding to you sorry about not making that clearer. Just thought I'd give you some good advice since I've been building engines for 30 some years now and work closely with a lot of skilled machinists at some really good speed shops. My 2005 engine looked about like yours maybe a little worse. My timing belt derailed due to an idler cracking and shattering. After some discussion with Rick my favorite machinist and speed shop owner in clifton park NY, we came to the conclusion that while after measurements the crank was still good. the block needed to be bored out .020 over and everything else is going to be new, except the head which is a rebuild from Cylinder Heads International. I bought the complete head and yes you can get it minus the cams and so forth but its really not worth the meager savings and then you lose warrantee because your messing with their product ! If you are extremely lucky you can redo your head bolt it back on and happy motoring. If not you could have cracks in your pistons that you can't see and its not worth pulling and magnafluxing them or a host of other issues that I won't go into given the time it would take. My engine turned over fine also once the head was removed but that in itself doesn't mean squat. So I don't know who is telling you just do the head and go or if its inexperience, either way the choice is yours but i've seen a lot of people "fix" engines and had them come apart shortly after being fixed. Then wondering why. I don't do jobs unless I do them right, that way few things ever go wrong with my builds. This is just advice please don't be offended by my offering it I just don't want to see you throw good money away. Trust me I don't have that luxury and wouldn't do it even if I did. Well good luck whichever way you go with it. Hey thanks for the tip on responding in the forum it never dawned on me, I usually only talk to the person who started the thread but your right !!

[faithjr]

Yes jonota I was responding to you sorry about not making that clearer. Just thought I'd give you some good advice since I've been building engines for 30 some years now and work closely with a lot of skilled machinists at some really good speed shops. My 2005 engine looked about like yours maybe a little worse when my timing belt derailed due to an idler cracking and shattering. After some discussion with Rick my favorite machinist and speed shop owner in clifton park NY, we came to the conclusion that while after measurements the crank was still good. the block needed to be bored out .020 over and everything else is going to be new, except the head which is a rebuild from Cylinder Heads International. I bought the complete head and yes you can get it minus the cams and so forth but its really not worth the meager savings and then you lose warrantee because your messing with their product ! If you are extremely lucky you can redo your head bolt it back on and happy motoring. If not you could have cracks in your pistons that you can't see and its not worth pulling and magnafluxing them or a host of other issues that I won't go into given the time it would take. My engine turned over fine also once the head was removed but that in itself doesn't mean squat. So I don't know who is telling you just do the head and go or if its inexperience, either way the choice is yours but i've seen a lot of people "fix" engines and had them come apart shortly after being fixed. Then wondering why. I don't do jobs unless I do them right that way few things ever go wrong with my builds. This is just advice please don't be offended by my offering it I just don't want to see you throw good money away. Trust me I don't have that luxury and wouldn't do it even if I did. Well good luck whichever way you go with it. Hey thanks for the tip on responding in the forum it never dawned on me, I usually only talk to the person who started the thread but your right !!

[jonota]

Believe it or not, but I'm with you. This is actually not my car, but a friends' daughter's car. I urged him to do a full rebuild, but he didn't want to pony up that much money, or get a used intact motor. He was going to sell the whole car for $500, so I urged him to let me at least try to put a head on it, he can then at least see if it can give him more than that in value. This isn't the first time I've done a timing belt piston/valve strike put together this way, but I don't like it either. I wouldn't drive it myself, at least not any appreciable distance.

[faithjr]

Yeah it comes down to cash most of the time so hope it works out !!

[jayebeach]

i have a question in the same issue when i purchased my 06LT it had 100000 on it and i had no idea if the timing belt had been changed so i changed it replaced idler tensioner and waterpump and it had been fine since now the question is do i replace it again at 160 000 ? or are the aftermarket products not so prone to breaking ? can i get 80,000 miles out of the aftermarket belt ?

and to the people with broken belts ... how many miles did you get ?