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2007 Engine successfuly swapped into 2005 vehicle
After reading through every forum post and thread I could find both here and anywhere else on the internet, I took the challenge and swapped a stock 2007 engine into my 2005 hatchback. This experience leads me to say it isn't nearly as difficult as I expected it would be. (I didn't get the P0300 Misfire code)
In an effort to help other people in the future, I will document what I learned, and what I did to make this happen as quickly and smoothly as possible. BTW, THANKS!! to everyone on this forum for answering the questions I had when I started, and thanks to those people who have already pulled this off and been awesome enough to post about it.
My story:
I bought a 2005 Aveo LT hatchback with 151,000 miles from a local junkyard in January. I got a steal because it had a blown head gasket, and the oil was literally tan colored with black specks floating in the surge tank. My first thought was to simply replace the head gasket and go from there, but after a careful examination, it looked like that had already been recently performed.` I started looking for a low-miles engine, and I found a 2007 with 40k and 200# of compression on all 4 cylinders for a great price.
Engine Swap:
I seperated the engine and transmission in the car, and hoisted the engine through the top.
I prepped the new engine, and dropped it in once I had made all the changes.
Some tips: (Not step-by-step directions, just tips)
Remove the hood, you get more elbow-room and light.
Remove the cooling fan and exhaust manifold.
Disconnect the lines from the power steering pump, but leave the AC Compressor lines connected.
Unbolt the AC Compressor from the bracket, and let it hang.
Remove the bracket from the engine with the Power Steering pump still attached.
Remove the starter, but remember which cables went where.. :-)
Place a thin piece of plywood up against the radiator to protect it.
*** I didn't remove the intake manifold or the alternator. ***
You can get the engine out with the intake attached, but you will need to raise the engine slowly, and "roll" it slightly forward toward the front of the car. Having the plywood up against the radiator will allow you to bump the engine into it when you are lifting without fear of damage.
When removing or re-inserting the engine, make sure you leave the intake manifold support bracket attached to give it some strength. Remove the bracket when you are removing/reinstalling the starter and everything else on the back of the engine. It is virtually impossible to do anything back there with the bracket in the way.
Interchange notes:
There are some obvious differences between the engines:
The O2 sensors are different, so use the sensors which match the car.
The 2004-05 uses a cable driven throttle, while the 2006-08 uses an electronic throttle.
The PCV venting is completely different between the engines.
The Intake manifold is slightly different.
The injectors and fuel rail are completely different.
I swapped all the sensors between the engines with the exception of the temp sensor.
I used the newer intake manifold, but I put rubber caps over the vacuum ports I didn't need, and swapped the throttle body. There is some kind of position sensor on the driver's end of the newer intake manifold which isn't necessary in the older car. I left the sensor attached and disconnected.
I swapped the injectors and fuel rail from the old engine onto the newer intake manifold. (You may need to swab out and lube the ports, as the older injectors slide into the manifold slightly deeper.)
I merged the PCV routing of both engines:
The 2005 engine had a huge vent which went from the left lower rear on the block to the valve cover.
The 2007 engine performed this same function internally to the head, so it isn't necessary.
Both engines have a PCV vent hose which runs from the air cleaner to the valve cover, but it goes different places. (I have shown these differences in the attached pictures.)
After swapping the parts around, and getting the engine ready, I dropped it back into the car in the reverse of how it came out. (I had to roll the engine forward just slightly to get the intake manifold past the firewall)
After bolting everything up and reconnecting all the electronics, I topped off all the fluids and started it up. I monitored temps and fluid levels while the engine warmed up to operating temp. The exhaust manifold smoked for a while while the excess oil cooked off, but everything behaved as expected.
I drove the car around for about 30 minutes that night, and took it to work the next day.
On my drive home at the end of the day, all the readiness monitors had passed, and I successfully took it through one of our DMV testing stations.
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