Put a used 2010 Aveo engine in my 2009. Both were LXV Ecotech engines. It starts up fine, runs smooth for 5-8 seconds, and dies.
Timing is spot on. Compression is about 210 psi in all cylinders. Fuel pressure is 55 psi. No apparent vacuum leaks. No codes on my scanner.
My thought is either throttle or crank relearn may be needed, but both procedures require the engine to warm up, and mine won't run long enough.
Thoughts?
Did you swap the ECU when you replaced it? Not sure if it's necessary, but could be good to know
No. I only bought the engine. The two engines should be identical, so the ECU shouldn't need to be changed. Now whether it needs a crank or throttle relearn is another question.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EAD15
Since the engine you bought was probably sitting, I would pull and clean the oil pressure switch to verify that it isn't clogged. If the switch senses a drop in oil pressure (plugged up screen) it will kill the engine to prevent damage.
You might also not have a "run" circuit going on the fuel pump, and be running off the primer. It will push enough fuel to run for a few seconds and then stall. Keep reading the fuel pressure gauge while it stalls out, if it has a check valve (a lot of them do) make sure it is held to bleed down with the system.
The other most likely possibilities would leave you with codes, and since you have none I won't go through them. Just double check and verify you have everything plugged in, that would alleviate most of the potential issues.
The computer should not matter, I switched my computer out just to test the system on my car. Even after doing so, i did not need to do a relearn to get it running. In fact, I had never done a relearn on my aveo while I had it, and I pulled all kinds of things on and off on a regular basis.
Oil pressure switch swapped with previous one that worked. No change. Fuel pressure continues to run 50-55 psi even after shutdown.
Today I actually got it to run longer. Usually adding throttle just shuts it down, but today I apparently caught it at the right moment, and got it revved up to 4000 rpm. As long as I keep it revved over 4000, it continues to run. If I let off the throttle, it idles down to about 2500 rpm, runs a bit longer, drops to 1000 rpm, sputters, and stalls. I did that 3 or 4 times. But it still won't idle.
Bringing up my old thread. The car has been sitting idle for quite a while, and I recently went back to trying to diagnose this. The car will run and drive with the crank sensor disconnected. Doesn't run great, but it is running off the cam sensors. So, my thought now is the crank sensor reluctor ring is different on the two engines, so the ECU can't sync the crank and cam sensors.
Only problem with this theory is that the 2009/2010 Aveo reluctor ring is apparently a magnetic ring instead of a toothed ring like 99% of other engines. I can't find jack for information on this technology. Is it possible the two rings are different? I can only find one part number for this part, so how would it be possible for them to be different? Anybody have a thought on this?
I'm having the same issue with my 1.8 swap, and I remember one other thread here with the 1.6 having this issue. I've also run the part numbers on the crank rings and confirmed they are the same. Maybe some magnets aren't as strong and it gives a bad signal?
Sorry you're having trouble, but glad to hear it's not just me. I'm gonna bite the bullet and pull the tranny to swap the original reluctor ring back in. While it's out I'm gonna test the magnetic field on both rings with one of those ABS sensor testers to see if they're the same. I'll post the results here later. If you solve your problem let me know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveRider
So I spent the day swapping the reluctor ring in my car. It made it worse if anything. No mechanic I have talked to has had a clue what could be wrong at this point.
I now have mine apart again. I bought a cheapo magnetic field detector to check the pattern on the reluctor ring.
Attachment 11542Attachment 11543
The top photo shows the constant repeating pattern that goes most of the way around the ring.
The bottom photo shows the one spot on the ring where the pattern is different. It's a little hard to see in the crappy pictures, but it has one spot where the magnetic "rectangle" is wider. I don't know if it is matched to top dead center, but I can tell you that all three rings I have are exactly the same, with the "wide spot" exactly in the same position on the wheel relative to the crankshaft.
So I think it's safe to say that all reluctor rings for the 1.6 LXV are exactly the same, so you can't buy the wrong one. Unfortunately, it doesn't get me any closer to a solution for my engine.
I give up. I have diagnosed dozens of cars with sensor/electrical/timing problems. This one is beyond me. If anybody wants a really cheap 2009 Aveo with 90K on it that runs, but needs some fix you think you can figure out, let me know.
Hey Waverider, did you ever figure out a solution to your problem?
No, I didn't. I ended up putting the original engine back and selling the car. I bought something more tolerant to modifications. Sorry I couldn't help
SOLVED
So, know this is a very old thread, but I thought I would update because I finally know what the problem was. I sold the car to someone else almost a year ago, and he just messaged me that the car is running fine now.
The guy that sold the used engine to me said it was pulled from a 2009. Apparently the new owner checked the engine number, and found out that it was pulled from a 2010. So he bought a used ECU from a 2010, stuck it in, and the car now runs like a top. I had tried 3 different 2009 ECU's with no luck.
I can only surmise that Chevy changed the reluctor ring, or the timing relationship between the crank and the cams. Whatever, if you swap engines, make sure to get the proper year ECU.
Bye all.
Even though you didn't finish the swap did the 1.8 bolt and wire right in with no fabrication?Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveRider
That's right if you put a 2010-2011 in a 2009 you will have to swap the ECM or have it flashed the cams are diffrent rods crank and block head VVT cam gears/sprockets were diffrent as I have 2009 with a 2010 and a 2011 ECM if you put a 2009 in a 2010-2011 you would have to do the same