CAI for 06 Swift+ 1.6 5dr 5spd that just got in Fender Bender

Hi - I am new to the forum. I love this car! Two days ago I got in a fender bender with a Tacoma truck. My hood, passenger headlight assembly, airbox, and body panel were taken out. Funny thing is the car runs fine, the alignment is still fine too!

So its time to uncork my Swift+, starting with a CAI as I need one. I tried the car out with just a sock over the exposed slash cut black pipe inside the airbox. It had more power and less of a power slump in the mid to high 3's. I duct taped half the airbox together to the airfilter for now - seems to work pretty well just sitting in the empty space for now.

So I did search your forums to see what others have been doing and I just want to make sure the CAI definitely will work fine in heavy rain and dusty/sandy/muddy secondary roads if installed in the properly maintained and splash well area? I don't want to go with the SRI setup unless I should in order to protect the filter. I also don't want to mess up the mass flow sensor so if I get one made it should be the same diameter there perhaps. Any suggestions?

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Scrap yard had a sliver aveo - sweet - got 3 wiper blades, hood and hinges, headlight and signal light assembly, and the body panel for 300 bucks. There was about 12-15 aveos there - I will be returning.
Next is the frame straightening that will take a lot of time as this is the first time I have done it, but I am optimistic and patient as I don't need the car on the road day to day. I have already practised with the car jack with pretty good success.

There is no mass air flow sensor on an 06. Just a map + IAT. Therefore pipe size doesn't matter as much. Good luck with the rebuild. Sucks you have to do all this work.

CAI will be fine in most of those conditions, as long as you dont submerge the filter.

You will need to clean it probably just as often since they will both pick up silt, etc from the dust in the road. but you will see more of it in the cai filter. where as gravity will drop some of it into the resonator box of the stock system.

I am happy with my cai, i run it year round, and only notice a "power loss" in sub 10 degree weather.. which i would expect the car to have some loss there anyhow. (but it really suck up the gas in that.. back up into the 30s this week and i am back at 31mpg. was getting @ 25-27 in the 5-10 degrees..

Thanks for the input! I wasn't aware of the increased power at lower rpm's with the CAI, I thought it was more at higher rpms. I will just have to deal with not liking the filter location... probably won't care once I take the car out for a test run. Will post some pics in the weeks to come as this all comes together.

Days work went well but I was using the car jack on the framing and accidentally 'grabbed' a wire and pulled it out of the connector - its the piece mounted on the passenger headlight framing.
Was wondering if anyone could tell me which color goes on which side?

As a result of the two cut wires the car is showing a red airbag light and the high beams don't go on when the lever is pushed back, but other than that the test drive went quite well today. In fact I am really impressed with how smooth the engine revs now! And the power gains are clearly there. And this is only using an opened up stock airbox and filter setup - you can see it in the picture.

DONT FIX THAT! (now that i got your attention) you need to unhook the battery and be very careful, thats the airbag sensor, and if the wires touch you will set the airbags off. you have another sensor on the other side in the same place to compare wire colors to.. just dont rip those out.

make sure you disconnect the battery, and wait a while before playing with it. And make absolutely sure you dont touch those wires together.

Holy wooballs was I lucky!! That would have been a very expensive mistake :)
I taped off the wires separately right away, but I am so glad I didn't try to do anything. Weird how losing that sensor cut out the high beams but I tested them before the install and they worked so occams razor says its the sensor.
I hope the connector is just pressure fit for the stripped wires so I don't have to take it apart. Thanks petrified.rabbit!

Got the underdrive pulley, pdf cd, belt, chromeintakes cai, and a shop booking. Also someone tried to break into my car - the passenger lock cylinder is so loose its ready to fall into the door, and the driver side lock cylinder and handle assembly is loose as well like flat screw driver hammer style. Yaay for me it wasn't successful. Now I have to figure out how to tighten up those lock cylinders and handle which means getting into the doors... I guess the perpetrator wouldn't have realized that the passenger door wouldn't open anyway because there is no egress hehe.
Like I said I love this car.. just don't hit puddles doing 80mph :)

^ ur lucky theres alot of aveos in tha scrap yard we dont have any :( i want ur grille btw lol

Yeah if you have access to junkyard, hook some of us up lol. I don't need anything right now, but if you read about someone looking for something, it wouldn't hurt to check for them. Probably have a chance of making a couple bucks for your time too.

The splash guarding is all torn up from secondary roads, and the fender bender so that layer needs to be fixed and may as well make it better. I also want at least one screen in the CAI intake volume for small debris, which could be put right over the covered filter, and there are cinch bags for water, but for less disturbance it seems better to screen the splash well.. has anyone done anything similar for a setup that is for rain and logging roads? Snomobiles can have their air boxes opened up using a water resistant fabric, could this work for the splash well? There is no mud here, but it rains a lot, and some routes are rarely graded, with hundreds of potholes and splashback and small rocks and debris, and a whole lot of poor air if you are behind another vehicle when its dry. Does anyone have any suggestions?

honestly, look at what gets into the fender well.
if you fix the splash shield, then it is not much. so over solving the problem is too much work for no gain..

even mud bogger trucks can run an open element filter exposed (usually above the cab for obvious reasons).

Ok I'll take your word on that ^, I just want to do this right is all.. so I will go back to the scrap yard and get replacement fender well and splash guards. Also since its still cool here the sri setup could be used just for now.

So the Chromeintakes is in the engine bay as SRI for now. I noticed the low end power, and smoother power curve, and a lot more up top too. In stock form, there was never any point in going above 4300 or so because of a flat spot, but now it pulls all the way up. I had to cut the pipe for better fitment to the throttle body too.
Back to the airbag sensor connector - it has been completely rebuilt (no easy task, so many parts to it) but it has a yellow and brown wire, vs. yellow and green on the drivers side, so I still don't know which wire to put in which side of the connector. If anyone could look at my thumbnail and check against their car to see if the yellow wires are common placed on both connectors it would really help.
Lastly, today the check engine light came on - I don't know when it happened but either right at startup or within one-two minutes after startup. It hasn't cleared yet - is this typical? It didn't come on for the whole afternoon of butt-dyno testing. Pics to come soon..

edit - its the same gas running in the car from before the install.. and I have never had a cel since buying the car.. sweet :)

your cel can be associated with the cai, make sure the IAT and MAP sensors or both fully installed, and properly sealed. It could also be a coincidence. you were driving it hard i assume since you say it now revs past 4300. So something else might have come up.

Get it scanned?

the airbag is most likely yellow on the same side, but you will need someone with a etecII car to look, as i am not going to 100% sure it didnt change with the engine. A 2006 model year would be ideal as well.

miss anything? I think you can have you own thread documenting all the issues, mods, etc about your car in the same place like a blog. I certainly like that more than someone who posts the same question in 11 different places and provides different outcomes to offered solutions in each thread.

without a code, it's impossible to tell what caused the CEL. I'll take a picture of my airbag sensor tomorrow and post it so you can plug it back in.

Soft reset worked - the cel has not re-appeared. Now I wish I knew what caused it. So it goes bit by bit. Heres an update pic. I tried the cai out with a shop vac with and without the can to see the difference in pressure too. I was surprised by how much the setup moves.. gotta get some extra springs and rubber sliders in there at some point. Fun, fun fun.

My phone is broken and I had to send it in for warranty repairs... be a little while before I can get pictures of the connector. Glad you got that cel taken care of.

Whenever you get the chance, Ontarian Frog.. mucho thanks!
Yesterday was my shop day - worked outside with a friend for the whole sunny day. Tools and parts were splayed about enjoying my first big session on my car. We could not get that drive pulley bolt to budge! It wasn't a full size impact and it just didn't have enough inertia - damn that sucker would not pop! Too bad I was sooo excited to have the underdrive pulley on as I am sure it will compliment the cai well.
Anywho everything else is done, the cold air intake is fully installed and the body work is 95% there, the hood sticks up about 3mm on the passenger front, and the headlight is a bit low but one more session on a sunny day should do it. Amazing what you can do with two guys, two car jacks, clamps, vice grips, and two ball peen hammers. The cai setup is far quieter... and the cel did come back again but as soon as we hooked up the battery and started the motor it cleared again and hasn't returned. I wonder if some boundary limit in the closed fuel loop related to a cold start and manifold ambient pressure was throwing a false cel. Going to get the scangauge in case it happens again and just for all the other data it can supply me.
So off to another friends tire shop to get that dang drive pulley bolt to submit, and then to the scale to get my axle weights.
Then gonna take out the passenger seat (rear seat has been out for years) and go have some fun next day off :)

It is waaaaaaay better as the CAI setup. Between 1300 and 5300 or so the pull is clearly better, and not just by a bit. The rpms are down a bit at several hwy speeds. Throttle response is better. Wow. Impressive.

do the exhaust yet?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit

DONT FIX THAT! (now that i got your attention) you need to unhook the battery and be very careful, thats the airbag sensor, and if the wires touch you will set the airbags off. you have another sensor on the other side in the same place to compare wire colors to.. just dont rip those out.

make sure you disconnect the battery, and wait a while before playing with it. And make absolutely sure you dont touch those wires together.

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I found that out the hard way when I put my headers on. NOT COOL is all I can say. Well at least I have more storage in my dash now, hahaha.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit

do the exhaust yet?

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not yet hehe .. if the exhaust is as plugged up as the intake then i am still in for a surprise.. already know what i want, still 2" but mandrel bent pieces.. but then i need new rims too it will be about priority for now i gotta get that pulley on because it is the last, necessary part of this upgrade.

Exhaust will make a noticeable difference, especially if you go with a high flow cat or no cat. Don't forget the O2 sensor mod to block the CEL if you get that though.

made plans to go to a friends autoshop to install the underdrive pulley - should be on within the week.. also got myself a scangauge ii - what a sweet simple to use interface. the codes showing are P0455 and P0498. perhaps i can clear them so when they get triggered next time then i can see what was going on.. any advice??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by northguest47

made plans to go to a friends autoshop to install the underdrive pulley - should be on within the week.. also got myself a scangauge ii - what a sweet simple to use interface. the codes showing are P0455 and P0498. perhaps i can clear them so when they get triggered next time then i can see what was going on.. any advice??

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P0455- Is normally your gas cap not sealing properly.

P0498- Is an 02 sensor issue.

i cleared the gas cap one twice already, so will look into that next fill-up, and do some experimenting to see if its easy to trigger the P0498. will see whats on the forum too. could the 498 code be triggered by the very rusty exhaust system where there is leakage before the sensor? could be the sensor itself, or related to the cai install too i realize.

those are both evap circuit codes, so i dont think it is the o2..

the 0455 could just be the gas cap.. but the 0498 points more toward the canister purge valve i think?

i noticed that 455 and 498 aren't listed on the engine code list i tried searching it.. just for more info could you see it being related to cold starts in winter - i forgot to mention the motor studdered for the first time once on a really cold morning this past winter when i didn't give it enough time to warm up and drove it about 3 miles.. that put a check engine light up, but at the time it had already come on so many times i just did the battery disconnect and didn't think about how there could have been two codes

So the underdrive pulley is on with the 1 inch smaller belt. It took three attempts to get the bolt to come undone.. thats why it took so long, now I understand the starter method of freeing the bolt too (not used) and it was a beefy electric impact that finally worked, but it got busted in the process.. anywho a 20minute test drive shows better throttle response for sure especially noticable when gearing down, and overall there is a smoother feeling when you floor it, like how the pulley spools up and down. No belt squeaks so far. With the stock pulley there were acceleration and deceleration hesitations that seem smaller now. Loving it.
Moving on to planning the next stage which will be better pedals, power steering bypass, unplugging the exhaust and hoping to find a lighter than stock 13" rim/tire combo.

if you want performance, and same diameter tires, you need to stick to 14, or even 15 inch wheels unless you want lots of sidewall to buckle..

Mine are lighter than stock and 15". (under 15#).

the rest of your ideas are good, where is the powersteering pump? you might just be able to pull it and run an even shorter belt, then adapter the rack.

ya got you on the sidewall buckle for sure hehe.. the reason for wanting 13" setup would be to go with a high sidewall for rocks and potholes on a 80/20 street/dirt setup. also it could be that a 175/70/13 setup has the mass more centralized which is better for accelerating/decelerating.. then again the effect could be minimal and as you mention a 14 or 15 setup would suit fine

the power steering.. well.. heck why not i figure.. how would the car feel i wonder.. really didn't think about it until reading about it on this forum, heck i haven't driven a car without power assist steering in a long time, like 20 years

car runs great, just wondering/picturing how much more air can flow through that motor with the unrestricted exhaust.. hmmm

Getting the gps setup installed.. its time for the exhaust as it pretty much needs to be replaced, amongst some other things, the 'frame damage repair' is a just for now.. another scrap yard visit.. but the motor is just running great as always pretty much its hard to hear whether it has aged at all. Its getting up to 75 thousand miles soon, time for another rustproofing :)