Ecotec needs more HP

I f anyone catching this is knowledgeable, please throw it out there. Does anyone know the flow rate of our stock fuel pump?? I ve seen OEM replacements quoted at 40-50GPH ( 1 G is 3.78 L), which would adequately supply my expected HP goal, but will probably go with a 190LPH universal Walboro. As for injectors, I am shopping for 320cc- just about what the VXR runs stock, but does any one know what style I need for direct replacement( EV1/EV6). I have never shopped injectors that weren't an OEM/JDM upgrade so I am stumped...help.

Shaved 3 lbs....not much but something is better than nothing. I fell short of my original goal but I didn't want to keep hacki g this thing to the point of sacrificing the structural strength

As long as I am talking to myself I'll continue. I FAILED on the header install. As I thought , the bolt pattern was a match, but the bottom of the runners hit the hard line that runs across the front of the head, literally, this attempt failed by about a quarter inch- Im pissed off, this would have been a nice turbo piece-there is a good amount of room for the T25 I was planning on running. Oh well, back to brainstorming, a quarter inch set me back months.....F..............

What hard line are you talking about? Pics?

I believe this runs off the cooling system? This is the only thing preventing my plans at the moment . As stated above, the runners out of 1 n 4 hit the silver hard pipe n keep the flange about a quarter inch off from sealing on the cylinder head

It looks like it should be possible to chop a section out of it and run a rubber line. Perhaps with a heat shield of some sort over it to protect from heat.

Or, chop a section out, drop it down with rubber line, but use the cutout section where it gets close to the manifold.

Pooh, just thinking out loud (from years of fabrication in the past) could you not use an AN-10 braided line with a foil/nomex heat sleeve to help insulate? You would need to fabricate an AN10 flange for the pump, (or mod a universal flange) then a fitting to the block (or wherever this line feeds to). Although braided line is not as flexible as a rubber line, it should be more reliable in such a high heat area, and let you bend it out of the way of the manifold. Aside from that, you could fabricate a new line out of stainless, but I have never worked with tubing that small, usually just use high pressure braided line on custom apps.

Clutch .masters FX300 finally arrived

First pic didn't go thru

i'm 90% sure just by looking that that line keeping that manifold from fitting is only a coolant bypass. I would totally reroute that.

I would also have to port match the cast manifold a little, which isn't a deal breaker, but I would also need to find longer studs to mount the header on-this thing is thick and weighs 11lbs. Where the hell would I find the longer studs???

This makes me a little uncomfortable, but can be minimized with a dremel n time. This is from Spa Turbo. This is for a South American Opel Ecotec 1.2,1.4,&1.6.

how much is the manifold?

$376 shipping included. If u want pm me for more info or #...part #TMOP05 Does anyone know the length of the manifold studs??? I just keep getting part #s....anyways I will check a mock fitting when turbo arrives-a rebuilt Garrett T25.

Just figure out what thread it is (probably M8x1.25) and buy some threaded rod. Cut it to whatever length you need. Or use all bolts if you want.

I wouldn't use threaded rod, bolts would work great. Replacing with something graded, or stainless to keep the studs/bolts from breaking off is a good idea.

I bit off more than I can chew, at the moment I will be focusing on the clutch install that went astray, and will be sending back the cast manifold. I will be making my own over the winter. I will post my success or failure soon. I am thinking of a short log that actually sits even with the valve cover and the turbo right of center-a lot depends on clearing the power steering bracket and plastic oil filter cap. If I fail again its time to drop it off at the shop....but we'll see

Clutch went in OK but we found out the flywheel had a lot of material taken off during the resurfacing-it had nothing to do with shaving off the weight. All it took was adjusting the rod off the pedal . All in all, not really happy with the clutch. It does grab quicker and harder, but with my reference point being a mazda with a Centerforce dual friction clutch, I am disappointed in the pedal feel from clutch masters. I wanted a HEAVY pedal, and it FEELS soft....it could all be in my head, but not too happy right now n a lil discouraged, thinking about getting rid of it cheap to start a new project, Im going to see what offers I can get

The "weight" of the pedal is lost in the hydraulic system, not the clutch itself. If you had a cable clutch, then you would feel a difference.

Thanks for the input rabbit. I was complaining to one of my guys at work n he said his VR6 had similar feelings after a HD clutch. He said it grabbed off the floor n felt soft. He said it will gradually get better as it breaks in. I'm going to just drive it thru winter n see how it goes.

Use a lil imagination. That is schedule 40 mild steel, half inch mild, and aT25. Just not rushing it. I've had issues with the clutch that have been resolved. My water pump blew out, so that n the timing belt was done. And now I'm refreshening all the gaskets n seals on the front of the block. The oil leak has finally gotten bad enough to give me a headache.

Wooo. I can envision it. :)

This was my vacation week where I was supposed to start fitting my manifold n tack it, but I have had nothing but problems with my refreshening of the seals on all the crap under the exhaust manifold(oil/coolant stuff). I just want to complain...we don't have a water pump housing, the whole damn timing cover and water pump housing is 1 piece that the dealer wants $400 for...I cracked the bolt for the coolant hard pipe, had to bore it out and am now in the process of rigging a stud rather than retapping it with an M8 cus there isn't much room. I am pretty sure my way will hold, but am figuring I will be swapping a 1.8 in the late summer and put the turbo stuff on snail speed...I figure I can always use the 1.6 as a donor for parts.. I hate the minor set backs that rack my nerves..now I cant do anything fun or worthwhile till my next vacation. I ll get back to this post as progress is made.