OK, Will be ordering tools this weekend. Depending on how the first goes, I may replace them all! HA HA HA HA (evil laugh), thanks for your help!
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OK, Will be ordering tools this weekend. Depending on how the first goes, I may replace them all! HA HA HA HA (evil laugh), thanks for your help!
If you replace any make sure you have the valve and seat ground.... don't ask how I know that.
Replace any guides that is.
OK guys, I got my head back from the shop. I got it April 21 it sat with him a month. I got there and he yet to cut the valves seats.
Getting setup on the machine.
Attachment 10312
Cutting a new seat
Attachment 10313
A new seat vs old
Attachment 10314
Last week started put the cam rollers and head back together.
Attachment 10315
Sorry no pictures from the marathon working session from yesterday other than the stupid bracket. Now it's raining and I am back at work :-(
BTW, Johnny Durham Machine Shop in Pickens SC gets my endorsement. As I watched him cut the valve seats I spent 125 bucks (the whole job cost 285). Granted that's a lot of money but look at that machine. Can you afford 20K out of pocket and years experience just for valve seats? I think not, Tim.
I read on the internet of 3 angle valve jobs . Id that just something for performance engines or is it SOP for a rebuild ?
Thanks ,
Wyr
God bless
Std. operating procedure for all engine these days to have three angles on the head.
Nice!!! Looking good B. Like a new head now.
I can see three fresh new cuts on the seats, just like new now. 3 angles add an extra MPG or 2!!
Well it's done. There are some problems
1) The clutch got weird on test driving and maybe from lack of use. It did better today but I don't trust it.
2) I have an secondary o2 sensor fault (see three)
3) It's leaking around the exhaust header. It was rusty and I just sanded it smooth. I may need to take it off and get cut smooth.
4) There is a cam fault code. I don't remember the code and I will look into that later.
5) on reassembly my thermostat housing cracked causing problems, took an extra hour half in trips to the store and diagnose.
6) It's weird being in my little car after driving the truck
7) BTW it sounds like a stupid honda with a fart can, need to fix that header
Don't let your car project set too long
Attachment 10327
I had to kill that wasp and deal with brother and sisters when they came back
I used an arm from a snowman to set timing
Attachment 10328
After the test drive
Attachment 10329
Congrats ! And good luck on fixing the last few items . :-)
God bless
Wyr
I want to thank all the people who have followed this post and offered good advice. I will do a lessons learned with "whys" with regards to this project. I know others have done the same here and have the expertise, we just need to expertise passed on to newbies.
Lessons learned
1) Torque everything as you often surprised that bolts that really needed tighten are often under tight and the rest are often over tight.
2) Do not rebuild your own head. Your will spend more than you need. I bought the parts and by the time I found a shop and paid for the machining I spent over than the rebuild job at the shop.
Machine cost 280 includes deck resurface, valve guide replacement, and valve cut.
Parts 300
About 450 for the shop to rebuild and machine the head.
So I would say let the shop do it as they have better experience there.
3) Don't drag out the project. Parts rust and that means you need to clean the rust off when you put it back together. So I think that is causing my leaking exhaust header
4) Take way more pictures than you need. Usually I do however this time I did not and it hurt putting things back together.
5) Bag all your bolts and nuts. Label the bag.
6) Get a good idea on the procedures as I should have done more reading before I took the head off. As it turns out there is a unbolt sequenced and some parts should have been left together when removing the head
All experience costs time or money , or both .
Experience is what you got when you did not got what you wanted .
Good to hear you got it all put back together .
Did you buy better quality parts than the machine shop would have purchased ?
Just shows you should get a quote , in writing first . Compare that to the cost of ram roding it yourself .
We live in a mostly dry climate . Rust is not that much of a problem . As a precaution , spray everything down with a light oil and bag or wrap in plastic .
I agree , the longer the project stretches out , the more problems .
You have an exhaust leak ? I missed that part . Header to head or header to cat / pipe ? Bad gasket ?
God bless
Wyr
Latest news. I had to drive down and pickup a friend in Augusta and take them back to Anderson. 300+ mile trip. So on the way back I was running the car hard and found out that all the water/radiator fluid was gone. So had to fill with water/whatever I could buy/antifreeze and now the thing overheats.
I have a brand new t-stat and been using the inside heat to keep temps around 114C.
Does this sound like I need to replace the radiator?
Make sure the suction radiator hose is not collapsing due to suction .
Is it getting hot at highway speed or city driving ?
And you tell if the radiator fan or fans are working ?
Are you sure you have the cooling system full , now and the air burped out ?
Can you feel a definite temperature difference between the 2 radiator hoses ?
It boiled out the coolant you started with ?
Does it have a conventional tstat or an electric / electronic tstat , like the newer Sonics have ?
Do you have any coolant in the oil ? Oil in the coolant ?
God bless
Wyr
If you are sure the tstat is opening and the system is full, then it could be a plugged radiator. I have been able to 'flow test' them with a garden hose, there should be no restriction at full hose flow. If water has a hard time passing through it then that may be your culprit.
Does your tstat look like this ?
Did you install it upside down or right side up ?
Best I remember , the end circled in red goes towards / into the engine ?
God bless
Wyr
Do you pull off both hoses and go to town? I am sure that's really fun in the winter. ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by 06T200
Yeah, the T-Stat is installed correctly
I used to use a garden hose to flush out a heater core . And , yes , it is interesting in the winter time .
It is possible you got a bad tstat ?
God bless
Wyr
Possibility of a bad thermostat is high. Was this a one time thing, or does it always overheat now? how hot is overheating? how did you know?
Its not likely that the radiator is clogged, but it is not out of the question. If you ended up empty, it could be a leak. Which a slow leak is hard to detect, but a long road trip will make it steam out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
All, I appreciate the suggestions. I suspect the Rabbit is right. Before the road trip it would heat normally. Of course I had not long distance test the rebuild. On our way back, I noticed the overheat signal and then I saw the fluid had steamed out. At that point I used resources at hand and until I got to a convenient store to buy some premix antifreeze.
Now it consistently overheats. Just city driving runs the temp above normal. One of my other issues is a leak around the exhaust header. I need to pull the heat shield and see if can find the leak before I pull that off.
So I can watch the temp gauge and see blips in the needle as the water is released from the head into the radiator. So I think the t-stat is working. I have not checked the hoses for a pressure differential as WyrTwister suggested.
While the radiator could be the source of blockage, something in the head could be causing it too. I need to make sure everything else is good before I pull the head again.
Exhaust leak around the exhaust manifold or coolant leak ?
How difficult would it be to temporary remove the tstat and test it w/o a tstat ?
Can not remember you saying ? Was the water pump replaced ? It is driven by the timing belt ?
Might be worth investing in ;
Search results for: 'infrared scanner'
Help you do some tracing ?
God bless
Wyr
You can test the tstat , itself , by placing it in a pan of boiling water & seeing if it opens .
God bless
Wyr
The latest updates.
I had a bad TSTAT that was causing the overheat. I took the TSTAT out, pulled the rubber gasket, and used on my old one. The old TSTAT had a slightly thinner gasket causing it to leak around the TSTAT housing. No more overheat issues.
I found the issue to the exhaust problem. It was my own silliness and lack of attention.
Attachment 10400
I remember wondering where was the washer for the nuts. Well I found them on top of the gasket when I took off the header.
Here is the exhaust pattern it created
Attachment 10401
While the header was off, I took no chances this time and cleaned it good (it's a southern thang).
before
Attachment 10402
After cleaning with a belt sander
Attachment 10403
Now down to error codes, need to pull the sensor and check wiring as both is saying low voltage.....hmmmm
Attachment 10404
Maybe you forget one of the O2 sensor connections?
I have seen P2077/2076 pop up on my LS a couple of times, right after getting it back on the road, but it seems to resolve itself the next day. Sometimes they self heal I guess lol
DTC P2077:
Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
Can't forget an O2 sensor. both are plugged in the harness. I will have to mess around with the cables and make sure everything is connected. The manual is not clear that the IMT is the same as absolute pressure sensor. I am going to say yes as that is a very logical choice to measure the pressure and then re-tune with a flappy thingy. I did spay a lot of cleaning crap in my intake manifold so could have killed that sensor:
Attachment 10406
Here is the scoop from TIS on the IMT contraptions:
The engine control module (ECM) supplies the intake manifold tuning (IMT) valve position sensor with a 5-volt reference circuit, a low reference circuit, and a signal circuit. The IMT valve position sensor provides a signal voltage that changes relative to the IMT valve angle.
P2077
The ECM detects that the IMT valve position sensor is less than 0.3 volt for 5 seconds.
Here is the connector diagram for IMT pos sensor.
Attachment 10407
1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector of the IMT valve position sensor.
2. Ignition OFF, test for less than 5 ohms of resistance between the low reference circuit terminal 3 and ground.
If greater than 5 ohms, test the low reference circuit for a short to voltage, or an open/high resistance. If the circuit/connections test normal, replace the ECM.
3. Ignition ON, test for 4.8-5.2 volts between the 5-volt reference circuit terminal 1 and ground.
4. Verify the scan tool IMT valve position sensor percentage parameter is less than 5 percent.
5. Install a 3A fused jumper wire between the signal circuit terminal 2 and the 5-volt reference circuit terminal 1. Verify the scan tool IMT valve position sensor percentage parameter is greater than 95 percent.
6. If all circuits/connections test normal, replace the IMT valve position sensor.
GM part number for the sensor: 96859269
While the plugs for the O2 sensors are in your face in the engine compartment the plug for the IMT is not obvious. I found it buried down under a bunch of hoses and alas I missed. Plugged it in and P2077 code went away. The O2 sensor is a still a problem. I might get a new one as the old has quite a bit O'Carbon on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by xintersecty
Got a new O2 sensor to work out the last two bugs. Bought a generic Bosch from advance auto.
Attachment 10437
Installed it, cleared codes and will report in after a couple days running.
Been running the car awhile. So far everything is good. Thanks to all the people that replied to this thread.
Congrats ! :-)
God bless
Wyr
hello i have to replace the upper engine cooling hose that connects to the heater core on the fire wall, any ideas on how i go about doing that?
If its the one that goes into the head, those are easier from underneath the car, as the intake manifold will be in the way. You can remove the support bracket if needed but I think a set of needle nose will get the clamp off if I recall correct. Be sure to drain the coolant first.
looks like the starter needs to be removed to access from the bottom. does that sound correct?
What year model is it?
2006 chevy aveo lt
No need to drop the starter to my knowledge.
It's a pain but pretty much you can access everything from under for the heater hose. You will need needle nose pliers and lots of light.