aNYONE HAVE A WRITE UP OR KNOW THE TORQUE SPECS? THANKS.
**Edit sry for caps lock
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aNYONE HAVE A WRITE UP OR KNOW THE TORQUE SPECS? THANKS.
**Edit sry for caps lock
According to my manual the removal and the replacement sequence are different. Removal (looking from the cam sprockets )
headbolt 1-3-9-5-7 are on the left and 2-4-10-9-8 are on the right. Remove in that progression.
Instillation 9-5-1-3-7 are on the left and 10-6-2-4-8 are on the right tighten in that order.
Tighten to 25Nm or 18 ft/lb. and retighten the cyl hd blt 70 deg plus 70 deg plus 50 deg using the angular torque guage KM-470-B.
Hope this helps. Might help to make a sketch and label the 5 headbolts on each side.
Follow this link...
i would like torque specs on head bolts and cam shaft ... - JustAnswer
Shows proper order and torque
Go to AutoZone website and create an account. The info for Chevy Aveo is pretty good, was my primary source, when doing an engine swap. They have free online manuals for many cars.
Will have a pic for head bolt removal/ installation as well as torque/ angle specs
I believe its different for diff years so be careful if you do it wrong you'll destroy the heads. You MUST use new head bolts for this procedure!!!Get the shop manual for your year and you won't go wrong plus you'll have tons of info for other issues.....
The GM torque guidelines are as follows for the 05 aveo. 18 foot pounds then 60 degrees then sixty degrees then sixty degrees then at last 10 degrees. I have seen all over the place missing that last 60 degrees. Its not a lot and maybe it will never give you issues. But this is from the GM specks at the dealership.
Does someone mind explaining the 60 degrees + 60 degrees + 10 degrees procedure?Quote:
Originally Posted by nova321fl
So I tighten the bolts to 18 foot pounds each, in the sequence order provided. BUT then I make 60 degree turns on each bolt afterwards? or is it you turn each bolt 60 degrees at a time? I am a bit confused by this.
You need a torque angle gauge - my local autozone sells them for about 10 bucks.
Great Neck Torque angle meter 25424- Read6Reviews onGreat Neck #25424
As mentioned, only use brand spanking new bolts - these are considered "torque to yield", and can NOT be reused safely.
Following the torque sequence, tighten all bolts to 18 ft lb - now put the torque wrench away (using it to do the next steps can actually damage the wrench)
Using your angle gauge and a breaker bar, and again following the torque sequence, turn all bolts an additional 60 degrees of rotation.
Do that step again, turning each bolt an additional 60 degrees of rotation.
Do that step again, turning each bolt an additional 60 degrees of rotation.
Do that step again, but this time only turn each bolt a additional 10 degrees of rotation.
The purpose of stepping through in so many little steps is to prevent over-stretching the bolts unevenly - bolts actually hold in tension by slight stretching, the torque to yield design stretches them ALMOST to the point of breaking; providing maximum clamping force.
Has anybody used head studs? or do they even make them?
If I were going to stud an engine, I would be looking at ARP exclusively - and they only make a kit for the Ecotec 2.2 engine. You might be able to find studs that are the right length and make it work, but would be more trouble and expense than it's worth, IMO.
I agree... ARE are the best, piecing them togather would be a pita like it would be for an idi diesel.
Does this apply for a 2005 chevy aveo? It looks like its for a 2004. I have a 2005.Quote:
Originally Posted by vante@q.com
Same difference. Use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by gearhead1
I figured as much. Thanks. Still working on getting this head off.