Cranking compression test fail, I should of done that in the first place
THANKS OG-Lou for all your help.
Cranking compression test fail, I should of done that in the first place
THANKS OG-Lou for all your help.
What were the compression readings results per cylinder? I also would be interested if the valves close all of the way. You would have to remove the valve cover while doing a cylinder leak down test. It could be your valves are OK, just off timing wise with a piston at top dead center.
A cylinder compression leak-down test would need to be performed. The tool looks like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cylind...ter-62595.html
This video is on a Honda engine where cylinder #1 is on the USA driver's side of the engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofSiTGeLXvc
Eric the Car Guy videos get complicated at times but he is a good diagnostician. He is working on a V6 engine but the ideas are the same for a 4 cylinder engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc
Because engines are have more complicated control devices, it is more and more important to do more testing to find a problem or to get the engine to operate correctly.
Back when I started to do engine repairs, I used a screwdriver to short out a cylinder to determine how much power each cylinder lost. If the engine didn't run, I squirted some gas in the carburetor or pulled a spark plug wire off to see if there was spark. If I had both gas and spark, I took out a spark plug and put my thumb over the spark plug hole to get an idea if the engine had compression. It was called the fuel + spark+ plus compression quick test. It still applies but it isn't enough for modern engines.