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Its impossible to know simply from pictures. Coolant almost always gets in the cylinders if you don't drain the block before taking the head off. You really need to see if the cylinder walls are scored and/or have compression numbers.
Under all that gunk can't tell you much. Looks fine otherwise, like any other engine. Have you since cleaned up the pistons and wiped out all the fluids so you can check for crosshatch / scoring on the walls, and inspect the pistons and deck. All messy like that hard to tell. How did the head look? Did the belt break or a head gasket?
Hi guys, thanks for the replies. I realize its hard to tell from pics.
What happened was my gf was driving this car and it overheated on the highway, shut off on the on ramp and she couldn't start it again. I've torn it apart, the head gasket doesn't seem to have a major blowout anywhere but doesn't look great. I'm assuming the head may also be warped. Coolant was coming out the exhaust header when I was cranking this engine by hand.
Going to clean everything up and take some more pics. Timing belt did not snap by the way.
Judging by the mess in the cylinders, i'm going to guess it wasn't low on coolant? Any idea why it overheated? Did you happen to do a compression check before popping the head off? Without many clues, if I was in your boat with it already apart I would get the head pressure tested and at least check the deck for flat as well as the head. Bottom end should be fine as long as it had oil in it?
It kept losing coolant out of the reservoir, which I haven't found a hose leak so I'm think it might have been coming out between the block and head, idk if that's likely or if it was burning off that much coolant each run.Quote:
Originally Posted by 06T200
The engine funny enough had an oil change no more than 100 km before this happened. So kind bummed about having to change that again in such a short interval.
Sounds like a warped head, and leaked into the cylinders. If the cylinders clean up ok, and no damage to the block/pistons you should be able to machine the head flat and clean everything up and run it. I would make sure the cams both spin free in the head (with the lifters out) - it may be bad and knock the cam bores out of line. Most times the head casting will settle back, so check the surfaces and everything for straight/flat. If the cams spin free it is pretty flat and ok to run if the deck surface is flat within spec. I think .002" is the limit. A shop should be able to cut it if needed when they pressure test it.
I have made the block and head surfaces flat again (still some clean up to-do, I will post some pics soon)
I am now wondering about the head gasket, do you guys use the red rtv stuff to seal it? I saw a kit that sells it with it, I just bought the kit with all the new TTY bolts, gaskets and little rubber seals, but no rtv. Do I need that? Is it part of the manufacturer spec or not?
Thanks again!
No the head gasket goes on dry. It has a sealant printed on the MLS gasket so you don't need to add any. How did the cams spin in the head with it apart? Hopefully you had a machinist grind the head for you. That is assuming you don't have a fly cutter to do the job yourself.
The cams spun just fine, I had checked the crank with the engine together and it seemed good too.Quote:
Originally Posted by 06T200
I didn't get a machinist to do it. I was using a flat surface and mounting fine sandpaper on it, shaving it down. I have been checking the head and its really close to level, just finishing it up while I wait on parts delivery.
Oh ok, that's a new technique to me. I will be curious to see how that pans out. I have always relied on a fly cutting machine to make them truly flat. The block in 99% of cases don't need to be decked, at least on these 4 banger lumps. Use a .002" feeler gauge all along the head surface between a straight edge and make sure it is snug all over, you should be good to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by zero_cool09
Will definitely let you know and post some pics! I will check out the gaps everywhere, wanna be right before trying to crank over the engine for the first time haha!Quote:
Originally Posted by 06T200
IV used that technique before with a flat rock is granite we had at the machine shop I used to work at... BND flat knife sharpening stone on small engines.
SO it turns my neighbour has an engine for me for 400 dollars. I am going to be dropping in an 07 engine with 93,000 km on it.
Only thing I am wondering about is should I pull engine with trans or seperate them beforehand?
What do I disconnect to pull engine block and trans together? cv joints, is there much else? Also separating the trans later from the 05 engine will I have to replace the trans fluid?
Thanks guys!
I would drop both together after the subframe
I ended up deciding on rebuilding the motor I had, the parts came in and I didn't feel like doing the hassle of returning them and I had already put in most of the work. This is how the engine looked when I put the gasket and head on.
Attachment 10561
Only problem I have right now is the engine is back together, but I can't get it to fire and run. I have had the cylinders spark and fire once and engine is cranking fine. It seems its an ignition issue.
Do you guys think the spark plug wires got damaged from the engine getting so hot? I took a look at them and it seems the rubber is kind of malformed and the metal contacts were really black. SO I think the spark plugs are not getting any electricity even though I tried to clean them.