Replacing the alternator

Hello everyone,

First post here as I don't own an Aveo, but I'm going to be (attempting) to replace the alternator on my friend's wife's 2004 Aveo automatic, 4 door I believe. (he's out of town on a fishing trip, hopefully catching the biggest muskie he's ever seen) I have yet to even look in the engine bay, but I'm not a stranger to automotive work, so I figure it can't be that hard. That being said, I've never worked on an American car before (Subaru, VW, Mazda), but I know I probably won't be needing any metric sockets - unless things have really changed.

I found this post: http://www.aveoforum.com/phpBB3/view...27464&start=90

The pictures seem to show it at the back of the engine bay - under the intake manifold it looks like. Are there any special cases of corrosion? Special tools I'll need? Tips or tricks?

Okay, haha, before I posted I googled and found this: http://www.ehow.com/how_5978560_repl...hevy-aveo.html , and this: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...-my-2004-chevy ) It actually looks pretty easy, but that's usually where things start out.

Any extra info is still greatly appreciated. Thanks!

You will need metric tools.

Update on this, for those who are interested.

Removal of the alternator cannot be done without removal of the throttle body as well (the instructions fail to mention this). Additionally, there is a metal bracket preventing the removal of the lower bolt that runs from the intake manifold down to the block - I am going to try and pick up a Haynes manual or something and see what that says.

The pictures from this link: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...-my-2004-chevy (free registration) show what I'm referring to (the last picture in the removal section, same as first picture in the installation section). That long bolt is stopped about 1/4-1/2" from being able to come out. At this point I am thinking the intake manifold must come out as well.

Actually, looking at the picture again, I think maybe that lower bracket piece may come out after all. From what I could see (precious little, even with mirror-on-a-stick and flashlight), that appeared to be a large mount of some sort - but I could be mistaken. Will try again tomorrow and update.

Also - for cars equipped with AC - the AC lines are directly in the way of a clear removal, hence having to remove the TB.


The only thankful note so far is that no bolts have snapped (knock on wood).

Did you try doing it from underneath? It's just above the axle. Lots of room otherwise to work.

I had considered that, but wanted to avoid jacking it up if possible. This is over at their house, not in my garage, so I'm kind of a mobile shop at the moment. Their driveway also has a pretty steep angle to it.

If I can't get it out through the top however, I'll have no choice. I did see that there was a lot more room - but it's a ton more work to remove all the bits in the way if I can just pull it out from the top.

Although, to get the bolts on that chunky bracket out, I may have to go in from the bottom. They certainly design these cars for mechanics with lifts!

I'd definitely go at it from the bottom.

Yep, definitely have to get to it from the bottom. Will post pics of the design flaw later on. That piece is not designed to be removed for an alternator replacement, but unfortunately must be, and the only real access is from the bottom.

Life intervened today, so didn't get to bring jack stands, and the new alternator hadn't arrived besides that, so will update next week.

Here's a pic that hopefully shows my problem. The bottom line indicates the long bolt that holds the alternator to the bracket. The middle thin line shows the path the bolt follows when pulled out (bolt is probably 6-7" long, enough to travel through the length of the alternator). The top large circle shows the bracket that holds up the IM that is blocking the removal of the bolt. I have had the bolt touching this bracket and the alternator is still held fast, the bolt still through the alternator and into the large bracket.

I have considered 'fixing' this problem by cutting out a V-notch in the bracket, but will have to settle for taking more of the car apart than necessary.

One further note is that in this picture the alternator is pivoted forward (towards the firewall) so I could clearly see the bolt. I could not push it any further due to the power steering/AC lines being in the way.

http://www.practicaltech.ca/jpg/auto...ator-issue.jpg

I thought there's an online manual somewhere here on the site... no need to pay for one (if you can even find a paper one, I had no luck when I looked earlier this year) and the one online is pretty well organized.

Thanks, but the manual doesn't help - it says to remove that bolt that cannot be removed.

Going in tomorrow through the passenger side wheel well, will report back.

try not taking out the pivot bolt and taking of the braket to the block, it looks like it you can back them out, together, and take the alt directly off the block.

also, not sure why, but the back of the water pump is all wet? looks like run off or something but i would check into that while your in there.

Yep, that's what I have to do.

There was some leakage from the coolant line attached to the throttle body (not sure why there is a coolant line on the TB). Was just because whoever re-attached it last did not clamp it down. Will resolve when I put stuff back together.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crazymittens

not sure why there is a coolant line on the TB

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It keeps the throttle from freezing up and sticking.

One more update on this - found out that Canadian Tire was going to remove the entire IM to take out the alternator - evidently they know of this issue. It's terribly disappointing this issue exists - a simple notch in that bracket would have solved everything. :( Ah well. One last update will come when we're done.

and what is the issue again taking the whole bracket off the block? i have an ecotec so i cant just look.

The issue is simply one of poor engineering on the manufacturer's part - why should we take the entire support bracket off when two bolts will do?

At any rate, the job is done now - required jacking the car up, unbolting the entire bracket, removing from underneath the car. Re-install process the same.

Car is good now...hopefully this thread will save someone else some hassles when it's their turn to do the job.

Summary: Alternator replacement in 2004 Aveo requires removal of large lower support bracket - can only be removed from under the car. Alternate option is to remove entire intake manifold assembly.

the fact is, you were able to get it out without removing the intake; lots of manufacturers place the alternator there, and others put it places where you need to remove all kinds of stuff to get to it.

i think you are so focused on your first attempt, that you are still upset with how easy it actually was,

i just took the alternator out of my 2005 hatchback and crazy is right.. that stupid bracket was in the way of pulling the lower bolt all the way out.. you can only get it out about 3/4 of the way.. i took a dremmel and tried to "notch" the metal but my small cutting wheel busted off.. so i pullit out my 4.5 inch angle grinder.. was able to push some wires out of the way, get in there at a very uncomfortable angle, cross my fingers and cut. i notched it enough i could get a pair of channel locks in there and bend a channel in the bracket so i can get the bolt out.. i bent the bolt trying to get it out so i'm going to get a new grade 8 tomorrow and probably "pursuade" the metal piece a little more so i have plently of clearance.. i didn't want to take the bracket off again if the alternator goes out so i "modified" the bracket for easy removal next time.. other than that metal bracket, the job would take about 30mins.. (removing it from the bottom)

make sure you do an idle relearn when your done putting it all back together. i did my alternator today and had to search for the service manual cuz my engine was idleing so rough i thought my battery was toast. im gonna make a new thread with the link to the online service manual i found so its easy for everyone to find. let me know if you want me to post the relearn procedure so u dont have to search the manual.

yep. crazy project.I'm glad I got on here and found this thread cuz I've been having the same problems

Anyone know if you can just replace the pulley on the alternator? Got a bad bearing but the alt is still charging...

ok i finally did it and it was actually pretty easy (not as easy as most cars ) but after only removing the air cleaner to throttle body rubber hose jacking up the car putting it on jack stands removing the splash gaurd taking off the serpintine belt i was able to remove the top bolt fairly easy and of course had an issue with the pivot bolt being too long instead of fooling with that i took off the whole bracket (big heavy duty aluninum thing )with the alternator there are only 3 bolts holding it to the block and all easily accesable (from underneath ) then poped out the connector removed the battery line and pulled it easily out the bottom when i re installed the new alternator i simple put in the piviot bolt in appx the same position it was in before removal lined up one of the 3 bolts finger tightened the installed the other two hooked up all the wires adjusted the alt so the top bolt lined up and then tightened every thing down and put the belt and splash gaurd on and i was done took the better part of 2 hours using trial and error and fooling with the piviot bolt but if i had to do it again i could do it in 1/2 hr 45 mins .

Good to read another success story, and thanks for posting the helpful information. It's also good to post the vehicle year and how many miles are on the clock.

The bracket behind the manifold (which the bolt is hitting) can be loosened. Loosen the top 2 screws about halfway, then remove the bottom two screws from underneath. You can then move the bracket out of the way with a little pry and take the bolt out. Difficult sometimes, but loosen the screws more first doesn't work. Good luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crazymittens

Thanks, but the manual doesn't help - it says to remove that bolt that cannot be removed.

Going in tomorrow through the passenger side wheel well, will report back.

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It's good to have information like this posted, BUT I can't understand why the folks who take the time to do this don't include the year and model. It may not matter for some repairs, but for something like this (where a bolt can't clear out), it seems really likely that the year and model might make a big difference. Just the slightest change in the configuration of the various parts might mean one method working best for a given year but not others. If I read '05 non-hatch, I'm going to be confident the information will work for mine - otherwise maybe not. As someone else here once said, it's all about the details.

I feel your pain, and can understand this could happen to certain models, BUT. This is a very commonly searched problem, the thread is pointed at AVEO. It's on ALL Aveo's, and it's the bottom bolt issue. So when reading this post, you should pay attention to all of the attempts above dealing with the Aveo and figure this is the Bottom Bolt Issue on All Aveo's.

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Originally Posted by avguy

It's good to have information like this posted, BUT I can't understand why the folks who take the time to do this don't include the year and model. It may not matter for some repairs, but for something like this (where a bolt can't clear out), it seems really likely that the year and model might make a big difference. Just the slightest change in the configuration of the various parts might mean one method working best for a given year but not others. If I read '05 non-hatch, I'm going to be confident the information will work for mine - otherwise maybe not. As someone else here once said, it's all about the details.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cabledogrg11

I feel your pain, and can understand this could happen to certain models, BUT. This is a very commonly searched problem, the thread is pointed at AVEO. It's on ALL Aveo's, and it's the bottom bolt issue. So when reading this post, you should pay attention to all of the attempts above dealing with the Aveo and figure this is the Bottom Bolt Issue on All Aveo's.

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LOL - definitely not in pain on this one. The main thing is that you posted your result, and that's great. All I'm saying is that it's so easy to post year, model, mileage, and it always seems like it should be an automatic thing to do on these auto forums. But no big deal in any case, and thanks for your information!

there is an easy way to do this, you do not have to take off the manifold, you do not have to take off manifold brackets. all you do is take off the mounting the alternator sits on. there are 3 screws. then u take the altanator with bracket it sits on ,off from the bottom of car and then unscrew the last screw off the alternator that is still connected to the "alt mounting."

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crazymittens

Hello everyone,

First post here as I don't own an Aveo, but I'm going to be (attempting) to replace the alternator on my friend's wife's 2004 Aveo automatic, 4 door I believe. (he's out of town on a fishing trip, hopefully catching the biggest muskie he's ever seen) I have yet to even look in the engine bay, but I'm not a stranger to automotive work, so I figure it can't be that hard. That being said, I've never worked on an American car before (Subaru, VW, Mazda), but I know I probably won't be needing any metric sockets - unless things have really changed.

I found this post: 2005 Aveo 5-spd sedan - timing belt broke - being repaired

The pictures seem to show it at the back of the engine bay - under the intake manifold it looks like. Are there any special cases of corrosion? Special tools I'll need? Tips or tricks?

Okay, haha, before I posted I googled and found this: How to Replace the Alternator in a Chevy Aveo | eHow , and this: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...-my-2004-chevy ) It actually looks pretty easy, but that's usually where things start out.

Any extra info is still greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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the Bottom Bolt Issue

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Originally Posted by smrh20

there is an easy way to do this, you do not have to take off the manifold, you do not have to take off manifold brackets. all you do is take off the mounting the alternator sits on. there are 3 screws. then u take the altanator with bracket it sits on ,off from the bottom of car and then unscrew the last screw off the alternator that is still connected to the "alt mounting."

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by smrh20

there is an easy way to do this, you do not have to take off the manifold, you do not have to take off manifold brackets. all you do is take off the mounting the alternator sits on. there are 3 screws. then u take the altanator with bracket it sits on ,off from the bottom of car and then unscrew the last screw off the alternator that is still connected to the "alt mounting."

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Exactly. 20-30 minute job, and people are making it sound like brain surgery.

But people will always have the mindset of "I don't care how you said to do it, I'm a newb and will do it my own way." Then come back to say you were right, but won't actually admit it.

Remember people, disconnect the battery first. Ground is first off, last to put on.

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Originally Posted by 79jasper

But people will always have the mindset of "I don't care how you said to do it, I'm a newb and will do it my own way." Then come back to say you were right, but won't actually admit it.

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I take part in multiple auto forums, and based on my own experience, don't agree with that statement in any way. I've seen a number of folks reply to advice that I've given, confirming it worked for them. And on the other side, I've received tons of help from reading what other have done, and have tried to confirm positive results to them as well. And I personally know of many other guys who do the same as I do.

Now if you're bothered by the fact that so many people post a problem and never reply with their result, well that's just the way it is, and it's not going to change. I never expect a reply when I post - it does happen some of the time, but more often there is no reply or result posted. But regardless of that, the overall benefit from these forums is HUGE. And for certain there are sometimes disagreements about which way is best, but there's nothing wrong with that either, and it ususally results in lots of information.

A perfect example is this thread. I've never had to replace the alt on one of our Aveos, but have followed the various threads because eventually it probably will happen. So when I read the post by smrh20, I wanted to take a look at this myself. But it's been so cold here in MA that this evening was the first time I could crawl under and check out what he wrote.

And so I'll say thanks to smrh20 for your info. It looks good to me, and I'll definitely try that route, if and when I have to do this job :thumbup:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by avguy

I take part in multiple auto forums, and based on my own experience, don't agree with that statement in any way. I've seen a number of folks reply to advice that I've given, confirming it worked for them. And on the other side, I've received tons of help from reading what other have done, and have tried to confirm positive results to them as well. And I personally know of many other guys who do the same as I do.

Now if you're bothered by the fact that so many people post a problem and never reply with their result, well that's just the way it is, and it's not going to change. I never expect a reply when I post - it does happen some of the time, but more often there is no reply or result posted. But regardless of that, the overall benefit from these forums is HUGE. And for certain there are sometimes disagreements about which way is best, but there's nothing wrong with that either, and it ususally results in lots of information.

A perfect example is this thread. I've never had to replace the alt on one of our Aveos, but have followed the various threads because eventually it probably will happen. So when I read the post by smrh20, I wanted to take a look at this myself. But it's been so cold here in MA that this evening was the first time I could crawl under and check out what he wrote.

And so I'll say thanks to smrh20 for your info. It looks good to me, and I'll definitely try that route, if and when I have to do this job :thumbup:

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Well you and I are a lot alike.
I agree with a lot of that.

I'll read all the way through a thread to see if there were any second thoughts on how something could've been better, avoiding mistakes, etc.

What I stated, I see a lot of on my diesel forums.

I have friends/family that don't know jack about cars, then they don't listen to my advice and come back crying saying I should've told them.
So it just irks me when someone doesn't listen to others that have done it multiple times.

Btw, the 20-30 minute job is a 07 aveo 4 door.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by parking_lot_mechanic

make sure you do an idle relearn when your done putting it all back together. i did my alternator today and had to search for the service manual cuz my engine was idleing so rough i thought my battery was toast. im gonna make a new thread with the link to the online service manual i found so its easy for everyone to find. let me know if you want me to post the relearn procedure so u dont have to search the manual.

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Could you please post the relearn procedure. Just replaced timing belt which included a new head. Now the battery light is on and the car keeps dying. I put the charger on it, then it starts up, runs great but dies when I take the charger off. Thank you.

Replaced mine on 9-13-2014. It was on the wife's 2007 Aveo5. Original alternator, car has 235,000 miles.

We were out of town on our way to a Detroit Tigers game when My wife noticed the battery light on. Luckily we made it to the game and after the game made it to within 1 mile of my brother-in-law's and sister's house before the battery completely died. My bro-in-law and I changed it the next morning in his driveway/garage in less than 2 hours.

We had found a video on Youtube that was helpful. I am pretty sure it is the same video I seen a link for posted on the forum in the past. We did a little from the top, but most of the work was from the bottom which is where it came out.

Apparently the alternator had been getting weaker and weaker before this. My wife had been telling me her car didn't have the power it used to have. I thought it was due to the high mileage. Before we installed the new alternator but after we had charged the battery all night, I started the car up and disconnected the battery. The car still ran. I turned on the headlights and the engined strained. I hit the high beams and it died. After installing the new alternator the car had renewed strength that was missing before all of this. Even my wife remarked how it had its power back. The weak alternator must have been preventing the coil from producing at full strength.

https://youtu.be/1cHQaItVxdQ doing this today on my way to work lights were dim wipers ran slow RED BATTERY LIGHT ON.

I am having trouble getting one of the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the block. Is there any way to get the pivot bolt out without taking the whole thing off. I've really been busting my knuckles on this one.