Okay, can someone please tell me the configuration of the wires? I changed mine today and I'm pretty sure I have it right (the engine turns over), but the engine is shaking like a mofo now. As soon as I put it into gear, the whole car shakes. So I just wanted to double-check that I have the wires right. Thanks!!
there should be 2 sets of numbers on the coils. Like 1-3 and 2-4 and that will tell you what side of the coil goes to which plug
Well, I had it right. Into the shop she goes.
was it running fine BEFORE you changed the plugs and wires?
I would suggest checking all of your connections, the plug gap, and maybe put the stock stuff back and see what happens.
Do that before an expensive trip to the shop so they can tell you one of the wires wasn't tight.
Yeah i've made the mistake of not having a wire on tight before... boy did I feel like an idiot...Originally Posted by Ron-E-Babe
No, it wasn't running fine before I changed them. That's the whole reason I did it. I had brought it in to the dealership because it was acting funny when I got on the throttle. They said I had a fouled plug and wire. Now the problem is almost reversed, it's fine when I'm on the throttle, but the engine jumps with it's idling. The plugs are still the stock ones cuz I don't have an air compressor and there's now way those things are budging without one. I guess it wouldn't hurt to double-check one more time (quadruple-check at this point)
never heard of a plug not coming out in a car this new. and you don't want to use air tools on a spark plug in a aluminum head. are you letting the engine cool before trying to remove them, you never wanna try and remove and install plug in a hot aluminum head
so let me get this straight....
the dealer said, "Sir, you may have a fouled plug (it very well could be) or burnt wire (which probably isn't the case)." and you said, "Self, I'll just change them to save some money." I agree, is a good plan to save yourself some money. Good for you.
In the midst of doing this, you realized the Corn Flakes you had for breakfast weren't enough to break loose the plugs, so decided to change only the wires and you still have a problem.
My suggestion...and it's only a suggestion...have a bowl of Wheaties, try really hard again to get the plugs out yourself, assuming you are using the correct socket size and 3/8" driver, honestly, they SHOULDN'T take much effort to loosen.
Now, if that doesn't work...again, ONLY a suggestion...(keeping in mind I like to joke around once in a while at the expense of someone else) ask your wife, daughter, or kid sister to do it for you..LOL
Now, back to business...if it's not the plugs, or the wires, maybe a bad coil?
Well, it was the plugs. Took it to a local garage and they changed them for $40 (actually, he just asked for $35, but I just felt wrong about that). She runs like a champ now. e3 plugs with magnacor wires. And to try to answer the questions.....
Yes, I took it to the dealership and they said that the plug and wire on the 3rd cyl were bad. They were going to charge $400 (including the $85 diagnostic charge that I had to pay regardless) to replace the plugs and wires (with OEM parts of course). So yes, I said "F that, I'll do it my self, get the good stuff, and still save a boatload of money".
I did have some other people try with just a hand ratchet, no one could budge them. I'm guessing the dealership torqued them crazy tight so that I'd come crying back. I had liked the service I had gotten there before, but now I think I'm going to rethink going back there. The local guy I went to used an air compressor and got them right out and put the new ones in in about 10 mins. Couldn't have been happier.
I'll freely admit that I'm no mechanic, but I really don't think I was overestimating my abilities thinking I could replace the plugs and wires myself. There is no reason they should have been in there that tight.
Car was dead cold (well, outside air temp anyway). I know better than to mess around with that stuff when it's hot.
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