Has anyone changed the transaxle fluid to synthetic? What weight did you use. I downloaded a trans manual from Daewootech and it says 2 qts SAE 80w. I have 2 qts of 75w-90 would that work? also is the fill plug easy to get to. :?
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Has anyone changed the transaxle fluid to synthetic? What weight did you use. I downloaded a trans manual from Daewootech and it says 2 qts SAE 80w. I have 2 qts of 75w-90 would that work? also is the fill plug easy to get to. :?
Ive been wanting to do that for a long time, can anyone clear me up also on how to change the manual tranny fluid?
remove plug 1 in diagram to drain it.
Then put in plug 1 back in.
Remove plug 2 and fill until fluid is level with the plug hole, and begins to come out of hole.
replace plug 2
http://service.gm.com/engif/000/001/735/1735686.gif
Kirko,
Care to share that GM website???
Thank you very much
So can this be done with out ruining the car? It might sound like noob question, but I had a probe gt while back and I couldn't use gl5 spec gear oil because gl5 contains sulfur and mazda trannys at the time had brass syncro's. For those of you who don't know sulfur eats brass. Are aveo syncros brass or no? I would like to change the gear oil for a synthetic gl5 without having to worry about replcing the tranny soon.
ive been using synthetic in my replacement 5-speed for 30k miles....no problems thus far (knock on wood)
hey another former probe owner on here! that makes at least 4 now!
who are the others?
I actually still have the car I just dont drive it anymore. I guess I will give the gl5 a whirl since someone has driven 30k miles. If are syncros were brass the gl5 would of ruined the tranny in about 2k miles so I guess its a go.
I don't have the exact same transmission, but my D20 is very close to your D16. I started using Motul Gear 300 and its great. It shifts a bit rough when its cold, but as soon as it warms everything is perfect. Been running it for about 20,000km.
I might offer a suggestion to the steps above:
Remove plug#2 to ensure you're able to get it out without any problems prior to draining the tranny.
Then remove plug 1 in diagram to drain it.
Then put in plug 1 back in.
Fill tranny until fluid is level with the plug hole, and begins to come out of hole.
Replace plug 2
I had a truck I changed the differential on and pulled plus #1 first, drained it, and then found plug #2 was seized...rather difficult to get it to the dealer that way. I ended up having it towed as I simply couldn't get it out. They replaced the diff but not until I had paid the tow bill.
found these pics on my hard drive,hope they help.
I was wondering the same thing. The book says 75w-80 gear oil but I have like 6qts of 75w-90 laying around....I know the weights not gonna cause a problem but I'm not sure if going to synthetic from nonsynthetic is gonna cause a problem. Not gonna lie, I'm not too knowledgeable about gear oil.
i probably would not go from synthetic factory to non-synthetic..
but how many miles are you guys that you are changing the oil?
Factory is nonsynthetic (75w-80) I just happen to have like 6 qts of GM synthetic gear oil (75w-90)laying around so I figure why not put it to use
First thing I did to mine @ 200 miles. Shiffing was much better. No hard shifts 1 to 2 and 2 to 3. I used Royal Purple. Kind of expensive @ 20 bucks a pint. Just like my oil change @ 500 miles, the old oil was full of metal. This engine and drivetrain is put together like American iron from the 1980s.
Sooo what weight do you use? 75W-80 or 75W-90?Quote:
Originally Posted by GeckoMan1
Royal Purple Gear Oil
Its 75-90. Also a correction, it was 20 bucks a quart. Worth every penny!
The manual for my 2009 says Gm #89021806. 75-90. What is GM 89021806 MT Fluid? (for their Aisin 5 speeds) - Bob Is The Oil Guy