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All my buddys have quick cars.. like preludes, civic si's, trans ams, bmw, audi's, etc.. i know i will never keep up with them but what are some things taht i can do to give it more gitty up? I have a cold air intake as of right now and 17's which probably slow it down some.. any ideas...please let me know - thanks
I can't wait to read the answers to this. It's what I would like to know too.
i'm sorta torn on this myself. i bought the aveo as a daily use car because of how easy it is to drive and the gas mileage it gets. my suburban is a great truck and i love it but it eats me out of house and home. am i ready to sacrifice the aveos fuel economy for power?
Just make it fun to drive, there are not really any go fast things for it. You can do the intake and exhaust and the car will drive for a while with very little money put into it.
I have lowering springs, modified intake, modified exhaust, 15" Rotas and 205/15/50 Ecsta SPT's. The car gets all sorts of good comments, but its definately not a race car. I'm about to roll 60k and other than oil changes, the only things it needed were a timing belt, water pump, and a battery. I live in Vegas so 3 years out of the stock battery is pretty damn good. I'm still on the stock brake pads even and they currently have about 8mm.
All that said, I'm trading the car in soon, I'm just waiting for the right Rx8 to show up used.
so intake and exhaust is your best bet?Quote:
Originally Posted by subachad
would smaller wheels be a better bet as well?
theres always nos :| :roll:
wont nos tear a motor apart?
:roll: it has happened...only old timers will remember that tho, it was that white aveo hatch from proboard days...yea 16s or 15s would def be better and even better would be lightweight wheels....it all depends on how much you want to spend
http://www.aveoclub.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2551
as was said earlier, the veo is more of a fun car, not a fast car. all we can do is the basics and then hope that some companies will be nice and start popping out performance mods.
please stop calling it NOS. NOS is a brand. Nitrous is the actual name. You can not beat the price/performance value of nitrous. With all the proper safety equipment, nitrous is very safe. And no, it wont tear the motor apart. get that F&F crap outta here
Smaller wheels won’t necessarily be lighter. I just got wheels for my lanos and after tons and tons of research I found 16” wheel combo to be lighter than a 15” in the same size and wheel. This was because the 15” tire was approx 2 lbs heavier than the 16” tire and the 16” wheel was only approx 1 lb heavier than the 15” wheel.
You could probably still go with a lighter weight wheel. If your wheel is 17x7” or less there should be no reason to go over 20lbs for each wheel. 17s don’t have very many options for a really light, inexpensive, and good quality wheel. In 16” or less though check out the Rota Slipstreams, my 16x7” slipstreams weight 13.5-14lbs each…not sure on the weight as the newer production slipstreams got a tad heavier. I had 16x7 slipstreams in a rare color shipped to my door for only $520 recently.
Also performance BOLT ons don’t usually hurt fuel economy. I gained a couple mpg with my basic upgrades. Think about it. It still takes the same amount of power to make the car go forward. With performance upgrades you will get worst mileage when racing around than with a factory engine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX1-LgDA1Go
risks of nitrous
you can always hope your motor holds like this tho:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GL1tA8FX ... re=related
the people in the second video are a few cards short of a full deck imo.
everything has a risk. With the right safety devices, that would not have happened.
actually its nitrous oxide and its usually a system you install so there for it could be NOSQuote:
Originally Posted by aveodude
Nitrous, or NOS will blow your engine. I don't care what you say, you can't stuff 40 more HP down the engines throat without beefing up the internals. (not for long at least) Nitrous has been around forever, if it was so simple and safe, every punk with a paycheck would have it. Nitrous can be added to a built engine, and still has a risk of ruin.
I am guessing you have never ran nitrous properly. I have a completely stock motor with a 75 shot making me 60hp and 150tq. I have had it for about a year and my car is still running fine. Buddy of mine ran a 150 shot on his stock motor Firebird for multiple passes in the 10s. Ran perfectly fine till the day he sold it.
Sure everything has risks involved. Nitrous can be dangerous when used improperly but so can ANY other power adder. Everything is as safe as the tune and the equipment
I think you may have missed my point. Running nitrous is detremental to your motor. When an engine is designed, an engineer sets specifications and tolerences based on the configuration of the motor. When you change one aspect without changing the others you are asking for failure, such as melted pistons, thrown rods, spun bearings, etc, etc, etc. Sure everyone knows a guy who put nitrous on his stock motor and made some passes at the track, them sold the car...probably to an unsuspecting buyer....but for you to tell me that putting nitrous on a stock daily driver won't cause premature engine wear at best and failure at worst...well that just doesn't make sense.
How did I miss your point? It seems pretty clear there.Quote:
Originally Posted by AveoRob
Yeah it does cause engine wear. So does starting the car, putting on an intake with a higher flowing filter, or modifying a car in general for more performance.Quote:
but for you to tell me that putting nitrous on a stock daily driver won't cause premature engine wear at best and failure at worst...well that just doesn't make sense.
Yes an engineer set the car to be in certain parameters but EVERY single performance mods changes those. Whether it is getting more air into the cylinders or getting air out faster.
Meted pistons are because of not watching EGTs
Everything else you listed is due to a shot that is too high for the specified engine. It is all about knowing your limits with nitrous and setting it up correctly.
I dont just know a guy that had it on his car, I am that guy. I run it on my DD. It has completely stock internals and it takes the 75 shot like a champ. Many people I know have put a nitrous kit on and have had it on for well over 50,000 miles. My buddy is running a 75 shot and just clocked 85k miles.
alright. well when i bought mine stock. the first thing i did was buy a high flow cat then some muffler adapters and i noticed a lil punch to it.
aveodude: You had nitrous on your aveo? Any picture to share? I am thinking of putting NOS onto my Aveo too. Should be trying out 50 shots first with proper engine tuning chip to richen the AFR. Am having forged pistons, forged rods and ARP bolts. The only thing I am afraid is the high compression in it now. Running 11.1:1 pistons inside now.
i believe he has an SRT4Quote:
Originally Posted by xiaogary
correct, I have the nitrous on my SRT. I am going to spray the aveo just for fun when I can get another cheap kit. They go used around here for $200 all the time.
If you do decide to spray it, start at a 35 shot and move from there. Get a window switch, electrical wot switch, hobbs switch, and something to retard timing when you are spraying. There are things out there that will only retard the timing while spraying so you do not lose that hp while off spray. The other thing is get a reputable kit. NOS, Zex (really good), Dyno tune (fairly inexpensive), and Cold fusion are some of the ones I can think of off the top of my head.
The window switch sprays from XXXXrpms-XXXXrpms and is good in case you miss a shift so nitrous isnt spraying while you are at fuel cut. That would blow the motor.
The electrical WOT switch goes of the TPS voltage. So when the computer sees WOT, the nitrous will spray. This has its advantages over a mechanical one behind the pedal for 2 reasons. 1 is because the switch may get stuck in the down position causing you to spray when you dont want to potentially blowing the motor. 2. is because the drive by wire isnt instant so you will actually be spraying just before going WOT.
The Hobbs switch is the life saver in the system. It is a little pressure switch that makes it so if you drop fuel pressure, it wont spray. Most cars do not run these and that is why on the videos you see intake manifolds blowing off and rods getting thrown.
With these safety devices you have to be within XXXX-XXXXrpms, be at full throttle, have the bottle open, have the system armed, and have full fuel pressure. And with some of the newer controllers (dynotune's), you can get the window/wot switch all in one and it has gear lockout so you can run through gear 1-2 without it spraying and gear 3-4 will spray then it will turn back off at 5th. Or customize it however you want to.
Sorry for the long post but some good info in there.
beautiful aveodude, i dint know about that "stuff".
Thats a very useful and impressive for NOS noob like me.
There is very few NOS players in singapore. So I think I have to head up north to my neighbour (Malaysia) to get a kit installed. A local tuner told me abt using MAP on top of TPS to control the spray. I dono why.
I am wondering whether I can ship in a ZEX kit off ebay to my country to my tuner's workshop as NOS is considered dangerous goods. I do not know how to explain if it were to be stuck at the custom. So most slightly i have to head north to install a set instead of shipping one off ebay.
My tuner suggested light boost turbo in favour of NOS. He said he can make thicker gasket to lower the 11.1:1 compression (due to the pistons). I am in a dilema now whether to turbo or spray. The problem in my country is, not many people play NOS, so finding a good installer or tuner is a problem. Which makes the situation rather dangerous.
When you ship the bottles, they are not full so that wont be a problem.
A bigger head gasket will maybe lower the compression .2, Not nearly enough to make it worth it to turbo it.
Installing it is something anyone with half a brain can do. The hardest part for most is the wiring. Again, if you can read a wiring diagram, you can install it.
If you do decide to get it, BUY A WET KIT. Wet kit mixes fuel with nitrous before injecting. Dry kit sprays nitrous and lets the MAF decide how much fuel it needs. Since we do not have a MAF, that is a terrible idea.
Tuning is fairly simple. You generally want to run a nitrous jet 2X the size of the fuel jet i.e. 42/21 combo. From there strap it to a dyno and adjust the fuel/nitrous jets for your ideal a/f ratio. While doing that, watch the knock retard. If you are pulling timing, back it off until it stops. Generally, you will want lower timing 3* for that size shot.
Here is a good jet size calculator
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/Sc ... etcalc.asp
Also if you wanted to be REALLY safe You could get an a/f switch. It works by plugging onto a wideband or stock O2 sensor and you program it so it will not spray unless it is richer than xx.x. That way, if you go a bit lean, it will stop spraying.
Thanks for the useful info. I like the A/F switch you mentioned. I need such safety feature. Oh yes, I think will not go turbo. If going turbo, I will be walking the track back from when I haven started - The track of turbo or NA. My country is very strict on modification. So a turbo snail at the exos is simply too obvious and easy to be busted. A nitrous setup is more discreet which is safer. I will check out whether the Malaysia do sell ZEX kit. I am thinking of the ZEX 82021 wet kit.
Any specfic brand/model for the A/F Safety switch?
A good wide band AFR sensor kit I can think of is the INNOVATE LC-1 kit. Which is abt $300US here.
Nitrous is really discrete. Throw the bottle in the spare tire well and cover the lines with wire loom under the hood. No one will ever notice.
I use all dynotune nitrous stuff. It is just a personal preference. Here is a link to their controller. It also has a built in WOT switch so that saves some money.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/sc ... product=67
The zex kit is a great kit. If I had more money when I bought mine, that is what I would have gone with.
As far as the wideband goes, Innovate is the best by far.