Printable View
You can very easily be sure that your fluid is still good with an oil analysis. Once you figure out the service interval (which is exactly what the OEMs have done) that you're comfortable with, you can stick to that vs the overkill you are currently doing.Quote:
Originally Posted by campuscop2003
So what is the analysis for automatic transmission fluid? You simply smell it and you observe its color. If it is in any way deficient, you do what you can to change it, even though each DIY fluid change only replaces 1/3 of the total fluid volume of the system. If you do nothing, you are well on your way to transmission failure - one of the most expensive repairs a vehicle can experience. Some of us prefer not to wait until the fluid becomes degraded at all. All A/T fluid does break down over time due to heat and wear. (Regardless of what GM-Saturn said about their transmissions being "sealed units" they were simply too cheap to provide a dipstick. Remember, they were in the business of selling as many NEW cars as possible - no matter what the reason. By the time your tranny fails it will be out of warranty. And now Saturn is no longer in business - with good reason.)Quote:
You can very easily be sure that your fluid is still good with an oil analysis. Once you figure out the service interval (which is exactly what the OEMs have done) that you're comfortable with, you can stick to that vs the overkill you are currently doing.
But there is no reason to wait beyond the point of transmission fluid looking less than optimal to start doing something about it. To me, spending $5 for a routine, twice yearly, DIY partial fluid change vs. a $1500+ transmission rebuild is a no-brainer. :roll:
aside from any other failure, the only thing that hurts transmission fluid is temperature, not sure how the synthetics compare with the regular atf, but with all your due diligence and concern have you installed a temperature gauge or upgraded from the stock transmission cooler?
The car itself has a temp gauge; if everything is operating normally the transmission should not be adversely affected. An upgraded cooler for the tranny should not be necessary unless you are operating under severe duty conditions.Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
Heat is not the "only" thing that affects ATF. Over time all the components of a transmission do wear to some degree from normal use. The particulate matter that is given off from both hard and soft parts remains in the system and in the fluid. That is why it's good idea to drop the pan, clean it out and change the filter occasionally. IMHO doing it every 50K miles would be appropriate, not excessive.
You take a small sample and send it to a lab to have them analyse it. They'll tell you if you're having any gear wear, bearing problems, etc by looking at the particulates in the oil. They also tell you how much life is left in the oil and how long you should be able to keep driving on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thymeclock
I do it the old fashioned way: examine the color and viscosity, and smell the fluid. 'Tain't motor oil and it doesn't require rocket science to analyze it. :) And when you drop the pan you will see whatever fallout is collected there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox
I have always been diligent when it comes to oil changes at every 3000 miles using Pennzoil 10w-30. I know that manufacturer specs call for 5w-30 but maybe I'm wrong doing that. I figured when it heats up to have something close to cooking oil lubricating my engine wasnt good. The transmission however is a different story. I do a lot of long distance commuting and now have 116K on the drive train and hate to admit this but the first time I changed my trans fluid was only 16K ago. I know thats real bad. I figured I'd never keep the car this long. I'd drive it, it would give up, I'd buy a new one. I've had it since new of July 04, and it still runs and drives like new. Who knew it would be around this long. Its long since paid off, doesnt owe me anything. No rust, body in great shape and no accidents or any major damage. Go figure. I'm on top of my Suburban because it does heavy service towing and winter use and well just because it cost 5 times the Aveo. Over the 6 yrs of ownership I've really come to respect this little car that I thought would be just a "throw-away".
These little cars can prove you wrong everytime My mom chose this car over a Kia Rio for a Paper Route Car.Quote:
Originally Posted by NYChevoo
As I understand it, both the Aveo and the Kia Rio are produced in Korea. Other than personal preference for one over the other, what is the difference?Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonwarrior2016
I respect that, but your eye can not analyze for 17 different elements, plus test water content, viscosity, flashpoint, etc. Each of these things helps you find out what exactly is wearing and why.Quote:
Originally Posted by Thymeclock
Here is a sample of a report:
http://www.aveoforum.com/phpBB3/down...46eef73d1d4ceb
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thymeclock
I think it comes down to dealer reputations. The chevy dealer I bought my car from treats me the same regardless of what I own. Whether you have a 2004 aveo or 2010 corvette. They do all they can to make you happy.
Kia has to "grow up" like Hyundai did. I had all the same issues with my Hyundai 3 automatic transmissions in 40k miles. 3 sets of struts in the 60k and they needed replaced when I got rid of it but hyundai has in the past 10 years given themselves a new image. And are more respectable.
Kia dealers around here are usually not affiliated with larger franchise dealers (with multiple name brands). I think that leaves them with less clout against the factory and less revenue to fix it for you "to keep you as a customer"
I remember when Hyundai first arrived here. What a disaster those cars were. They practically fell apart by 20K.
i will buy the $10 oil for my $1600 car
hey fellas, sorry to bump up an old thread, but since i recently bought my aveo i haven't had problems with it.
transmission fuild is brown though.
I wanted to do a flush but most friends and some mechanics advise to not do so.
So i decided to just drop the pan, drain the fluid and replace filter.
I'll be using dexron III since that what autozone said the car uses. the manual says T-IV but people have just told me "same ****". which i know isn't a very proffesional answer. wouldn't hurt though right?
havent checked on filters, or even if this car has one 'cause i heard that some of these have screens instead of filters?
truth or myth?
these trans do not have any filters.the flush is basically a dialases machine puts fluid in while draining old with car running.if you dont do this you only drain 1/3 of the fluid thats in there.i did mine when i noticed it was brown at 130,000km now i have 213,000km and no problems,flush your brown trans fluid your car will appreciate it
i personally say stay away from dex3, but thats a can of worms im not going to open.
I have a 2009 chevy aveo lt, and i'm worried about my transmission, it surges before shifting when you take off, and my fluid is brown, hoping a transmission flush will fix the problem, also my check engine light will come on and stay on awhile, then go off awhile, then come back on, had a test done at auto zone, they said it needed fuel injectors cleaned, the car has 48 thousand plus miles on it.
Start a new problem thread. This already-long thread is 5 years old, and doesn't relate to what you're asking about.