5-channel Amps

[little monster]

Thats some good information there, thanks for the tips! I was thinking of the possibility that I would need to upgrade the alternator... god knows I don't need the friggin' battery dying on me while driving just because I wanted a better "bump" in the trunk. Anyhow, I'll take alot of that into consideration. For someone who just wants to push the speakers they have to the limit. I'm looking into getting MB quart reference 4" with seperate tweeter for the front which will hold I believe 50 RMS, and inifinity kappa 42.7i which also holds a 50 RMS, and a possible 200 watt RMS 6 1/2 Bazooka tube in the trunk (possibly bigger since I would end up getting an amp for all around and won't need a powered tube anymore). So, it should sound good but not killing in the bass... just a little thump for the money. In this sitiuation, with a head unit that only has 2 pre amp outputs, do you think the MB quart and Kappa's should just be connected to the front and the tube to rear? Any Ideas would be much appreciated (still really new to this, so I like all opinions... even better speaker ideas... looking for decent price range as well).

[aveosummit]

My knowledge was incorrect alternator are built with a 30% buffer, the corrected calculations are below

On average an alternator is built with a 30% buffer so you have about 25.5 amps additional available.

Watts = Volts * Amps
318.75 = 12.5 * 25.5****updated7/29/08
372.30 = 14.6 * 25.5****updated7/29/08
Just some food for thought.

[genefitz]

Thats some good information there, thanks for the tips! I was thinking of the possibility that I would need to upgrade the alternator... god knows I don't need the friggin' battery dying on me while driving just because I wanted a better "bump" in the trunk. Anyhow, I'll take alot of that into consideration. For someone who just wants to push the speakers they have to the limit. I'm looking into getting MB quart reference 4" with seperate tweeter for the front which will hold I believe 50 RMS, and inifinity kappa 42.7i which also holds a 50 RMS, and a possible 200 watt RMS 6 1/2 Bazooka tube in the trunk (possibly bigger since I would end up getting an amp for all around and won't need a powered tube anymore). So, it should sound good but not killing in the bass... just a little thump for the money. In this sitiuation, with a head unit that only has 2 pre amp outputs, do you think the MB quart and Kappa's should just be connected to the front and the tube to rear? Any Ideas would be much appreciated (still really new to this, so I like all opinions... even better speaker ideas... looking for decent price range as well).

Okay, check this out. Your head unit will push, most likely 48 to 52 watts Max (around 28 to 38 RMS).
If you are running components like Infinity or MB Quart, which usually have about a 100 - 200 watt max, you may be best trying them at standard radio output first. I mean, if you are only going to be running a tube (nothing wrong with that, I am using an 8" bazooka right now, loaded with a Fosgate 8") you won't be pushing out a ton of hit from the trunk, and your speakers at radio level should have no problem keeping up. In fact, your tube may have a hard time keeping up with the components.
I am, right now, running Blaupunkt 4" components with 1" tweeters in the front, and Blaupunkt 6.75" coaxials in the rear, with a Fosgate loaded 8" powered Bazooka. The components and coaxials are run off the stock CD/MP3 player, I have a 10 Ga power run to the trunk, for the tube, and it is grounded in the trunk. The inputs for the tube are paralleled off my rear left speaker. I run out of bass push before I run out of high end. The bazooka is great for very low need uses, but not so great when you really try to throw something. If you are just jamming out to the rock or something, that's cool. It adds a little beat to the car. But make sure you understand that you are not going to get any awesome booming bass.

Now, if you are going to go all out, a different setting would be first to get a stereo with front, rear, and sub output. If that isn't possible, and you still want to use a 5 channel amp, I would suggest you do this. Take a look at the amp. Many 5 channels have a "bypass" output next to the rear inputs. Note I said earlier, 5 channel amps have a front, rear and sub input. Many times next to the rear inputs, you will see a bypass output, which wwill allow you to take a short set of RCA's and route from bypass output to the subwoofer input.
If the amp doesn't have that, then the best you can do is get a small 2 way cross over. route high to the rear input, and low to the sub input, then rock on.

I respect what AveoSummit said in regards to the larger Alternator with the addition to the Cap. I have never had a situation where i have needed a larger alternator, even when I was running my Phoenix Gold amp and 1.2 farad Cap. But that doesn't make it a bad idea, if you can afford it.

As far as the amp. Never get an amp with a higher max than your speakers. In a perfect world, with 200W max speakers, you would never really run more than 100W into them continuously, because when you push that 200W to them, you will get pure distortion. All truth be told, with 200W max speakers, I wouldn't run over a 100 - 125W max amp to them. and for a sub, I have never found a need to max my sub out. If you have a quality speaker, and a quality box, then you should be able to get by with minimal power.

The gear I am working on right now, will set me up with a 5 channel, 600W amp 100x4 Max @ 4ohm + 200x1 Max @4ohm. The ront and rear gain will be turned to about 1/2, and the sub will be at 3/4 running into the 8" sub (with a proper box)

Remember, it is always better to sacrifice quantity for quality, than it is to sacrifice quality for quantity. More doesn't always mean better. And more wattage doesn't always mean louder.
I have seen 4 kicker 10"s blown apart by a Pheonix Gold M50, and I have seen 1000W amps struggle to keep up with 100W amps. The type of gear matters.
And quality gear will last the life of your vehicle. It costs more to start with, but you never have to replace them.

Final thoughts:
Don't rush. the gear you are looking at today, will be around tomorrow (possibly cheaper). If you are looking to make your car sound better, first do the research. Learn how to read the specifications of an Amp or radio. Learn what impeedence is, learn how it effects your your power. Learn a little bit about cable sizes. You have the time, you are the consumer.
Stereo shops are very quick to tell you what you need, but it is always more than what you actually do. Their greatest fear is the informed consumer who knows what he or she wants and says "If you want my money, you will do it my way, or else." I have walked out of several shops.
As i said in an earlier post. I don't use 1000 watts when a hundred will do, I don't buy 15" subs, or even 10" subs, when I can make an 8" do the job, I would rather be running a 400 watt system that sounds like heaven, than a 10,000 watt system that sounds like ass. More bass is not always the answer, balance is the key.

Hope this helps.

[aveosummit]

Genefitz-what 5-ch amp are you using for your setup?

[genefitz]

Genefitz-what 5-ch amp are you using for your setup?

I ordered the Blaupunkt THA555PnP. For the wattage I am looking at, it seemed the best choice. Low wattage, and good overall quality. for running 1 set of small components, 1 set of coaxials, and 1-8" sub.

My Coaxials have a 100W max, my components have an 80W max, and my Sub has a 300W max.
The THA555PnP is 55X4 + 200X1 RMS. It will be plenty to push what I am looking to. I have also been looking at replacing my sub, because I found a Blaupunkt unpowered 10" tube. Not a fan of the tube, but getting the speaker would be a joy (keeping it all in the blaupunkt Family)

[little monster]

great post genefitz! I will take all that info to the bank... BTW how are blaupunkt speakers... I always thought they were low end speakers.

[genefitz]

Blaupunkt makes good quality gear. It is not MB Quart by any means, but not bad at all. The highs are crisp, the mids are very clear.

For the price, I would say good value. Quick note though, the components don't quite crank out the volume that you would get from coaxials, partially for the 4" size of the drivers, and because the crossover unit does steal a little from your power. But I have found the little less volume coming from the front doors and pillars to be kind of good. It does save the ears a bit, and still keeps a balanced sound.

[little monster]

I was upset at first to find that there was only a small selection of speakers that fit the front doors to my car. Blaupunkt were one of the speakers with the highest RMS... but it was only 30. I guess it's fine since I probably will not amp them, but I will amp the rear Kappa's I have since there is a bit of room for more power (50RMS). I figure I'll probably just use a 2 channel amp, one which will use a lower amount of power (I think the lowest I found was 60 RMS... but I'm sure there is a way I can lower the amount of power on the amp itself) for my Kappa's ant then push the bazooka tube. Of course I am going to look into making sure that the wattage adds up so I get a better match like you said.

[genefitz]

You can gain down an amp (input gain) which would lower the output.

I am not opposed to amping the components and coaxials. There is a binefit to it, even if you have to choke down the amp a bit.
Amplifiers do more than just raise input wattage, they also allow you to use crossover settings to place specific limits on your signals, in effect setting proper signal to match the speakers abilities, resulting an better overall clarity.
The amp I bought has a 55 watt level for my front and rear, where my radio has a 50 watt max. Why use the amp? The crossover and the enhanced clarity.

This, again is really up to you. What you want, the power you have to spare, and the space you are willing to lose.
Don't get me wrong, I am not anti-amp, I am actually all about them, but when one is looking at price, and really depending on the needs and the listening style of the user, it may, or may not be needed.