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    Thread: Aveo Trunk - what it looks like if you do ASPL

    1. #1
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      Aveo Trunk - what it looks like if you do SPL

      Just wanted to show some pictures of my build. This is what is so far. There is a lot more steel and angle iron being added. Everything is also fiber glass sealed as well as body mold rounded. The baffle is 2.5" thick and the box is 2" thick around.Let me know what you guys think so far! I also got my new High Output alternator in today I will let you know how it works!

      **Update 6/14/12**Alternator is in it outputs 135A - keeps batteries charging at 14.5V so works well. Have most of my equipment in have a couple more amps and speakers to wire up though. Attached images of what the trunk looks like thus far and basic subs!


      Attached Images Attached Images     
      Last edited by Siege; 06-14-2012 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Update

    2. #2
      Timing belt broke, do I keep it? thehunterooo's Avatar
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      Good god, no wonder how need more power

      What the hell are you going to run in there?

    3. #3
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      I am running 2x DD 9512 subwoofers and 4x MBQuart Discus 1500x1s, 2x XS Powe D3100, 1x XS D3400,
      High Output 135A Alternator, 8x runs of 00Gauge Power Wire 8x 00 Ground Wire, 2 of sound dampaning,
      And of course a steel reinforced and fiber glassed birch/MDF enclosure

      I will also have 2x MBQuart DDiscus 4.125, 2x MB Quart Q components, 2x 8" Selenium drivers, 4x. Crescendo Super tweeters
      4x MBQuart Crossovers, and a maxx-link. Trying to get a 5v output deck as well.

    4. #4
      Timing belt broke, do I keep it? thehunterooo's Avatar
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      You are going to shake the car apart!

    5. #5
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      Maybe you can come down to spring break nationals next year and You can hear it for yourself! But that is the goal, I keep breaking clips on trim pieces. I glue them back together with gorilla glue, but they never stay.

      My goal this year is to do 155dB at the headrest. My realistic goal is about a 155.5 dB.
      Hopefully like a 158 if you follow DB Drag rules.
      Last edited by Siege; 06-02-2012 at 05:24 PM.

    6. #6
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      How heavy is all that? I'm assuming theres a reason for the use of steel? I don't know much about sound competitions, but that box looks pretty diesel. Cant wait to see the finished product

    7. #7
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      Well I estimate around 700 - 800 lbs or so just in the trunk. That is with the subs, amps, steel, and batteries.

      The steel is actually very important for the hard hitting subs like I have (well as far as getting louder). What it does is it stregthens all the joints where wood/mdf meet in the box. It helps stop the wood from "Flexing" so that the energy created by the subs is forced more out of the sub port as pressure instead of energy loss in basic vibration inside the box. Granted vibration then comes out into the cab, but that is because the actual pressure is increased in the cab instead of in the box/out the trunk. Makes a good difference for sound pressure.

      The resin then helps smooth and seal. It adds a "echo" effect in the box which allows the sound pressure to be more concentrated and sent out the port as well.
      A lot of box designs are different.

      But I can't wait either! it takes me a lot of time to make the angle, cut, shape, drill, then resin... then smooth and tape and screw, then silicone, then construction adhesive, then testing. It is quite a chore haha.

      But I am excited - I will be the loudest Aveo on this green earth

    8. #8
      Should I keep it? Aveowego's Avatar
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      No offense or anything, but I've got about 6k into the stereo in my aveo and a little over 9k into my chargers. I have built my boxes and done fiberglass work. I'm just wondering what possesed you to use cabinet board for your enclosure? Why you used resin instead of primer which has better accoustic properties, and most of all why you used steel. I worked for sound pro for 4 years and we never used steel in a comp box. It distorts the sound. That's why when we built a comp box it was always out of 2 inch plexi. Like I said, not trying to be offensive. I've just been building systems for over a decade now and I don't see that advantages to the way you're doing it. As for your sound, you want the frequency reverb to be amplified in your box, not the sound. The sound comes from the reverb being amplified. The only way I could possibly see this working to your advantage is if you run reverse phase on your subs. Even then I can't imagine the bass ever sounding right in the vehichle. I'm just curious lol.
      Last edited by Aveowego; 06-08-2012 at 03:55 PM.

    9. #9
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      I understand exactly where you are coming from but there are some gives and takes on it. The main reason we picked birch was because of how strong vs. how light it is. since most of the wood is done in short distances (and looks prettier than MDF) we used a layer of birch instead of an additional layer of MDF on the second layer of the shell. We have comp boxes that weigh the lightest (like mine) around 300 lbs, and heavy ones (in our extreme) that weight just north of 2,800lbs The birch shaved off about 80/90 lbs that didn't affect the integrity.

      The steel is great to stop flexing - it helps reinforce the boxes at the joints (Especially the port wall). But they key is not to leave the steel open in the box. The Angles are sealed and tapped then glossed over (So you can still remove the baffle when all said and done.)

      Now I will agree that Primer has a better acoustic value sound, it does allows a wider band of reverb at a lower gain (In our testing). But the Resin has a lower band of reverb at a higher gain. So a primer'd box sounds great usually especially when the tuning hits a higher frequency range. The Resin is stronger, extremely smooth if you do it right, and allows pitches to reverb better. The issue is when you resin a box your peak frequency is like 51 or 52. with our primer'd boxes you can get away with 50 - 54 hz. This difference has equated to around a .3 db difference, but we all know there could be a large amount of factors for that. As much as a pain as resin is, the smoothness and physical strength it provides is better than any other material I have used to-date.

      I never run subs out of phase if I can avoid it And again it sounds like you have done more Sound Quality competitions, I am in Sound Pressure - so loudest (Ugly or not) sound wins! I have attempted, but I just did not like keeping up with RTA scores in such, I just preferred the bigger projects then the fine tuning ones.

    10. #10
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      Added some pictures, will probably have it playing by this weekend. I haven't had a chance to test it's response range or SPL. But I will keep you guys posted. This has been a long couple months endeavor





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