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    Thread: my sub, amp and h/u package

    1. #1
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      my sub, amp and h/u package

      so as said before the mrs has a brand new 09 holden barina 3dr hatch and she wants sound n video, so here we go with an installation pics wen its all chosen n put together!

      first off the headunit
      [attachment=3:153kj7k2]838-01.jpg[/attachment:153kj7k2]
      [attachment=0:153kj7k2]838-02.jpg[/attachment:153kj7k2]


      the sub 1000w 10"
      [attachment=2:153kj7k2]SW003-04-L.jpg[/attachment:153kj7k2]
      Frequency 40Hz-1200Hz
      Output Maximum 1000 Watts
      Max Power 1000 Watts(Peak Power)
      Sensitivity 86dB
      Impedance 4 ohm
      Magnet 2 x 30 oz
      Voice Coil 2.0" (4-Layer)


      this will be hopefully mounted in the sparewheel well.

      the amp 500watt 2 channel
      [attachment=1:153kj7k2]AS-PA-288-05-L.jpg[/attachment:153kj7k2]
      Output Power(max/Peak) 500Watts
      (250W x 2 Load 4 ohms)
      Bridged Output Power(max/Peak) 500Watts
      (500W x 1 Load 4 ohms)

      Frequency Response 20Hz~20KHz ±1dB
      Input Sensitivity < 200mv
      Treble Control ±10dB 10KHz
      Bass Control ±10dB 80Hz
      Signal/Noise Ratio 95dB



      my question is should i get a bigger amp or would it be too much drain on the alternator? if not will it be enough to run the good bass?



    2. #2
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      Re: my sub, amp and h/u package

      500 watts if fine, you might need a capacitor if you go any higher, I had a 400 watt then a 600 watt and it was fine.

    3. #3
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      Re: my sub, amp and h/u package

      yea i was tryna find a 400watt but no good. wots the benefit of goin higher? is there ne real gains (i kno this is a newb question so dont beat me for it!)

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      Re: my sub, amp and h/u package

      ok, the deck is fine, but your choice of amp and sub is not and here is why:

      when your are buying a sub you need to look at watts RMS not max watts (max watts is never achived and its complitly false to go by max numbers) the sub you posted is no way in hell 1000 watts RMS, for a refrence here is mine 400 watt RMS 10" mtx sub
      ,
      its a tank, do not buy any of thouse noname subs you will be very desapointed. get your self a 1 10" or 12" of a brand name such as mtx, rockford fosgate, kicker or JL, again look at watts RMS ratinginsted of max ratings, you will want something around 300-400 watts rms handling for a sub.

      as for your amp here are the real specs
      o OUTPUT POWER (MAX): 800 Watts (400W X 2 @ 4 Ohms)

      o OUTPUT POWER (RMS): 80 Watts (40W X 2 @ 4 Ohms, <0.08%)o OUTPUT POWER BRIDGED (MAX): 800 Watts (800W X 1@ 4 Ohms)

      so this amp will only give you 40 watts rms on full blast per ch, so when you bridge it you will be lucky to see 50-60 watts RMS going to your sub with music, or 80 watts rms when you are playing test tones (but you will never going to be doing that).

      this is a horible amp, like i said go for something brand name like mtx, rockford fosgate, jl or kicker.
      brand names such as rockford fosgate underrate there staff (my 2 ch 450.2 is rated at 450 watts RMS, but inreality is a bit over 500 watts RMS)

      tell me what size sub you want how much power you want to put in to it and i will tell ya what subs and amps to look at.
      Its more fun to drive a slow car fast, rather than drive a fast car slow!

    5. #5
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      Re: my sub, amp and h/u package

      hey thx for the details! probably just want a 10" sub and enough power to give it a nice thump without having to install a new alternator or anything of a similar nature.

      once again thx for the help!



      after a quick search i found this amp
      MTX Thunder 6152 Car Amp
      Key Features
      Amplifier Type: Dual Channel
      Bridgable: Bridgable
      RMS Power at 4 Ohms: 37.5 W x 2
      RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 75 W x 2


      Performance
      Frequency Response: 20 Hz - 20000 Hz
      Signal to Noise Ratio: 110 dB
      THD at Rated RMS Power: 0.1 %


      Crossover / Equalizer
      Bass Boost: With Bass Boost
      Bass Boost Frequency: 40 Hz
      Low - Pass Frequency: 40 Hz - 200 Hz
      High - Pass Frequency: 40 Hz - 200 Hz

      and this sub
      ROCKFORD FOSGATE STAGE 2 P210D4 10" 500 WATTS SUBWOOFER
      FEATURES:
      2" Excursion Aluminum Basket
      Impedance: Dual 4 ohms
      60 oz Motor Structure Magnet
      250 Watts RMS
      500 Watts Peak
      2" Aluminum Voice Coil Former
      Embedded Tinsel Leads
      Increased Power Handling
      Sensitivity: 86 dB

      is this guna give me what im lookin for? sry for bein a noob!

    6. #6
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      Re: my sub, amp and h/u package

      i have that exact sub in my room, its very good, but you need a amp with at list 200 watts RMS
      Its more fun to drive a slow car fast, rather than drive a fast car slow!

    7. #7
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      Re: my sub, amp and h/u package

      Thank you Denniswhite for correcting the MAX vs. RMS watts. I love when people talk about peak watts, always always use RMS

    8. #8
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      Re: my sub, amp and h/u package

      is there a formula or something to help work out the rms from the max power? or is there no way to tell from max power?

    9. #9
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      Re: my sub, amp and h/u package

      in short NO, with subs you can assume that rms will be half of max (not always true), but with amps you can't. if you get an amp from a reputable company the will have a rms rating, some companis don't even post max watts because thouse numbers don't meen ****.

      is there an amp your looking at?
      Its more fun to drive a slow car fast, rather than drive a fast car slow!

    10. #10
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      Re: my sub, amp and h/u package

      this might sound stupid, but its the 09 dash simply a true double din? it looks a little wider at the top that the bottom but that might just be the angle. i was thinking about installing a head unit like yours but if it requires a small filler piece to fit the gap i would just buy an upgraded OWM off ebay.






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