my sub, amp and h/u package

so as said before the mrs has a brand new 09 holden barina 3dr hatch and she wants sound n video, so here we go with an installation pics wen its all chosen n put together!

first off the headunit
[attachment=3:153kj7k2]838-01.jpg[/attachment:153kj7k2]
[attachment=0:153kj7k2]838-02.jpg[/attachment:153kj7k2]


the sub 1000w 10"
[attachment=2:153kj7k2]SW003-04-L.jpg[/attachment:153kj7k2]
Frequency 40Hz-1200Hz
Output Maximum 1000 Watts
Max Power 1000 Watts(Peak Power)
Sensitivity 86dB
Impedance 4 ohm
Magnet 2 x 30 oz
Voice Coil 2.0" (4-Layer)

this will be hopefully mounted in the sparewheel well.

the amp 500watt 2 channel
[attachment=1:153kj7k2]AS-PA-288-05-L.jpg[/attachment:153kj7k2]
Output Power(max/Peak) 500Watts
(250W x 2 Load 4 ohms)
Bridged Output Power(max/Peak) 500Watts
(500W x 1 Load 4 ohms)

Frequency Response 20Hz~20KHz ±1dB
Input Sensitivity < 200mv
Treble Control ±10dB 10KHz
Bass Control ±10dB 80Hz
Signal/Noise Ratio 95dB


my question is should i get a bigger amp or would it be too much drain on the alternator? if not will it be enough to run the good bass?

500 watts if fine, you might need a capacitor if you go any higher, I had a 400 watt then a 600 watt and it was fine.

yea i was tryna find a 400watt but no good. wots the benefit of goin higher? is there ne real gains (i kno this is a newb question so dont beat me for it!)

ok, the deck is fine, but your choice of amp and sub is not and here is why:

when your are buying a sub you need to look at watts RMS not max watts (max watts is never achived and its complitly false to go by max numbers) the sub you posted is no way in hell 1000 watts RMS, for a refrence here is mine 400 watt RMS 10" mtx sub
http://www.pantipmarket.com/automobi...A7239065-3.jpg,
its a tank, do not buy any of thouse noname subs you will be very desapointed. get your self a 1 10" or 12" of a brand name such as mtx, rockford fosgate, kicker or JL, again look at watts RMS ratinginsted of max ratings, you will want something around 300-400 watts rms handling for a sub.

as for your amp here are the real specs
o OUTPUT POWER (MAX): 800 Watts (400W X 2 @ 4 Ohms)

o OUTPUT POWER (RMS): 80 Watts (40W X 2 @ 4 Ohms, <0.08%)o OUTPUT POWER BRIDGED (MAX): 800 Watts (800W X 1@ 4 Ohms)

so this amp will only give you 40 watts rms on full blast per ch, so when you bridge it you will be lucky to see 50-60 watts RMS going to your sub with music, or 80 watts rms when you are playing test tones (but you will never going to be doing that).

this is a horible amp, like i said go for something brand name like mtx, rockford fosgate, jl or kicker.
brand names such as rockford fosgate underrate there staff (my 2 ch 450.2 is rated at 450 watts RMS, but inreality is a bit over 500 watts RMS)

tell me what size sub you want how much power you want to put in to it and i will tell ya what subs and amps to look at.

hey thx for the details! probably just want a 10" sub and enough power to give it a nice thump without having to install a new alternator or anything of a similar nature.

once again thx for the help!



after a quick search i found this amp
MTX Thunder 6152 Car Amp
Key Features
Amplifier Type: Dual Channel
Bridgable: Bridgable
RMS Power at 4 Ohms: 37.5 W x 2
RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 75 W x 2


Performance
Frequency Response: 20 Hz - 20000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio: 110 dB
THD at Rated RMS Power: 0.1 %


Crossover / Equalizer
Bass Boost: With Bass Boost
Bass Boost Frequency: 40 Hz
Low - Pass Frequency: 40 Hz - 200 Hz
High - Pass Frequency: 40 Hz - 200 Hz

and this sub
ROCKFORD FOSGATE STAGE 2 P210D4 10" 500 WATTS SUBWOOFER
FEATURES:
2" Excursion Aluminum Basket
Impedance: Dual 4 ohms
60 oz Motor Structure Magnet
250 Watts RMS
500 Watts Peak
2" Aluminum Voice Coil Former
Embedded Tinsel Leads
Increased Power Handling
Sensitivity: 86 dB

is this guna give me what im lookin for? sry for bein a noob!

i have that exact sub in my room, its very good, but you need a amp with at list 200 watts RMS

Thank you Denniswhite for correcting the MAX vs. RMS watts. I love when people talk about peak watts, always always use RMS

is there a formula or something to help work out the rms from the max power? or is there no way to tell from max power?

in short NO, with subs you can assume that rms will be half of max (not always true), but with amps you can't. if you get an amp from a reputable company the will have a rms rating, some companis don't even post max watts because thouse numbers don't meen ****.

is there an amp your looking at?

this might sound stupid, but its the 09 dash simply a true double din? it looks a little wider at the top that the bottom but that might just be the angle. i was thinking about installing a head unit like yours but if it requires a small filler piece to fit the gap i would just buy an upgraded OWM off ebay.

it should be a true double din

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Aussie BarinaTK

is there a formula or something to help work out the rms from the max power? or is there no way to tell from max power?

---

Yes, RMS, or Root Mean Squared is roughly 0.7 times peak. A sine wave can be expressed in peak to peak (peak positive to peak negative), or peak (half of peak to peak, or just positive peak), or RMS, which is 0.707 times peak. As you can see manufacturers can advertise any one of these as their max watts, but always compare RMS, which are closer to real world, even though you will usually not achieve these either due to impedence, reactance, and other factors, but it is a good way to compare apples to apples.

Is a 06 aveo a true Double-Din???

yes it is, did you pick an amp yet?