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    Thread: Powered sub

    1. #1
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      Powered sub

      I'm going to upgrade the stock speakers in my 07 swift hatchback. I've got hy head unit and speakers all picked out. I was thinking of going with a Bazooka powered sub, but would like an opinion on size and power. I'm just looking to have a nice well balanced system that I can listen to everyday. Nothin crazy. Thanks



    2. #2
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      I don't like powered subs. Go with at least a single box with and amp stuck on the back. Look into fiber glass, you can do a really clean instal.

    3. #3
      Still love my daily driver aveosummit's Avatar
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      If you are looking into powered sups check out B52 AUdio, they have better performing ones for less the price. If you want to add some low end and keep it simple and save space you can go with a single 10" and a mono amp.

      As far as powered subs go I would suggest a 10" or 12".

      Salanm what line of speakers are you looking at? Also what are you looking to spend on this build up?
      Aveosummit aka "C3Customs"

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    4. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by aveosummit
      If you are looking into powered sups check out B52 AUdio, they have better performing ones for less the price. If you want to add some low end and keep it simple and save space you can go with a single 10" and a mono amp.

      As far as powered subs go I would suggest a 10" or 12".

      Salanm what line of speakers are you looking at? Also what are you looking to spend on this build up?
      listen to this guy he knows what he is talking about.
      You did WHAT? to your Aveo? HAHAHAHAHA

    5. #5
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Im not to picky on brand, just want to have a decent sounding system thats wells rounded. I'm looking to spend between $500-$800

    6. #6
      Still love my daily driver aveosummit's Avatar
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      Thank you B1rdbrain.

      Everyone has a different opinion about what sounds good. For a decent product line within your price range, you can go with any number of companies. A decent low rms (150-300) 10"-12" could cost anywhere from $50-$600 brand dependent, a monoblock (class D it is more efficient then class A/B) to push them anywhere from $200-$1000 brand dependent, Which could leave you you with as much as $550 to spend on speakers, which you could get some high end speakers or as little as $250 which you could get some introductory high end speakers.

      Many have upgraded the front speakers to 6.5"and they sound great, My advice when you choose the brand that you put in your car, is try and hear it first also ask as many questions as you can. I and many others could list brands names till our faces turned blue, but the only person that has to enjoy the product is you.

      I have had much success as well as failures with many off brands and brand name equipment. I can tell you what I have had success with and what would be a waste of time in my opinion, but others may differing experiences and it would only confuse you further.

      My advice is this***,
      1. If something sounds to good to be true, it probably is.

      2. When you choosing an amplifier compare CEA-2006 Compliant amplifiers to CEA-2006 Compliant amplifiers.

      3. Match the RMS of your subwoofer at a given wiring impedance (2ohm, 4ohm, or 1ohm) to the RMS of the same impedance on the amplifier, (very important or you will be buying a new amp or sub or both in the near future). A subwoofer in an enclosure built to spec will always sound better then a sub in a non-spec enclosure.

      4. When you are reading specs on none CEA-2006 Compliant look at the voltage ie. 14.4V, 12V, 17.1V that the testing was done. If you can ask the salesperson what is the max voltage the particular amplifier can handle, many will not know because that is not a fact that many know off the top of there head, but if you can get it, it will make your shopping alot easier.

      5. Volts x Amps = Wattage
      -subcompact and compact cars stock alternators put out around 85amps rms some max at 200amp other at 150amps.
      -so if you have an amplifier that can put out 2000W but can only handle 14.4V you need about 138.89amps to ever see the 2000W or a high output alternator that has an rms of 150amps.

      6. Buy from an authorized dealer then you can actually get your warranty honored in the event of something going wrong. FYI most amplifiers carry a 1 year product exchange and 3-5 service warranty if purchased through an authorized dealer. Many companies on-line say that they are authorized dealers but want you to buy an extended warranty (surf with your eyes open). Any questions about a product that you can not get answered from the retailer-call the manufacture ASAP.

      7. Stick to your budget (many stereo shops make money upselling!!!)

      8. Take your time it is your money.

      9. If you want a non-biased opinion of a brand or product you can ask me or anyone on this forum (you will get alot of opinions).

      ****subject to change
      Happy Hunting,
      Play your Music Loud and Responsibly!!!

      P.S If you want me to design a layout for you, I would love to assist you in getting the best value for your dollar.
      Aveosummit aka "C3Customs"

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    7. #7
      What do you mean there's no turbo?
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      I have to agree about preferences. I have hearing loss in my right ear (yay Army!) and I can't hear low frequencies very well on that side, but my left ear can. What this does is let me focus on the SQ since I can hear highs in my right and everything in my left. So I can plug one ear to hear the quality at an different frequencies. I tend to upset people with high dollar systems because I can always find a flaw.
      ***what I recommend***
      1.) without sound deadening there no real point in high dollar, high end speakers because of the road noise. Unless its a show car and sitting still you won't notice the difference between entry level high end and high dollar highend. Go with something like Infinity Kappa
      2.) again without dampening you'll get a lot of "roll off" with you sub (a type of reverb). To lessen the effects go with a 10" and if you like rap, go with two tens. 12" hit hard but roll off is terrible with rock and some classical.
      3.) for an entry level system, class d is not necessary. they are more efficient, but unless you have mulitple amps (more than two) it's not necessary. A multi channel for your fronts and rear and a 2 channel for you sub (wired in mono) or two subs wired parallel will be all you need.
      4.) Optional. Do what I did and get a Bulk Pack of Dynamat Xtreme 36^sq ft for $120. One pack is enough to do the hatch/ trunk and 3 boxes ought to do you overall.

    8. #8
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      Thanks you guys are a huge help. And aveosummit if you wouldn't mind helping me out design a layout that would be awsome. I'm a complete noob to all this and any help would be much appreciated.

    9. #9
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      I have a Bazooka powered sub in my Aveo and I love it. $150.00 CDN and future shop (Best Buy).
      06' Aveo
      07' Liberty
      1973 VW Bug. Full resto. summer toy.

    10. #10
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      Re: Powered sub

      I have a bazooka powered sub as well, 8" with the craptastic bazooka driver replaced with a fosgate 8" It isn't huge booming bass, but for the music I listen to, it has done wonders.




      4 wheels, 4 doors, 4 cylinders, 8 speakers, and 1 loose nut on the steering wheel driving the car!
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