Rear speaker options 2010 sedan

[Chev Chelios]

i just replaced my deck and am going to upgrade speakers. I know they are 6.5 in the back and I got the cover off and it looks pretty straightforward to replace. I'm on the fence if I want basic $60 speakers or go up to around $100 (that's about my limit). And if I'm doing all four at once or just the back. I was looking on crutch field and there's very few showing that will fit. Most say not compatible or "fits with bracket". I was all set to pick up a pair to install before I had to put the rear deck cover on, but most of the options I was looking at locally are showing up as not compatible on crutch field. Is it really that tricky a fit?

[xintersecty]

If you look through the past threads on the speakers a lot of the other guys have said as such. If you have a local shop, I would carry you old speaker and just compare the holes. Also local shops are good about having conversion brackets.

[javeo]

IMO..Youll be doing yourself a huge favor by first investing and installing a good set of front speakers instead of the back ones. Rear speakers are considerably less important, and are only used for fill or sometimes not at all during upgrades. Just ask any knowledgeable car audio place or enthusiast.

[Chev Chelios]

The vehicles I've had with door speakers never had the impact as front dash or rear speakers for me personally. If I set the volume and fade between the front and rear The fronts always sound muddy but I can hear the back clearly. It's partly why on my aveo I never noticed the front driver side speaker had been completely out. Not sure how long it was out either. Ended up being a broken wire where the door panel was rubbing. I did temporarily hook up my old 5.25s and had them magnetically mounted under the dash. Sounded clear but tinny (no enclosure). After changing the deck it made a bit of a difference but even with the fader set in the middle I still hear more sound from the rear. Also I'm not planning on putting a sub in so I would like to have a bit of bass from the back. I put Infinity 6X9s in my old Chrysler and my friend (who was a car audio nut in high school) was certain I had put a small sub in as well.

[Chev Chelios]

Just to update this thread with the current results.

I got two Kicker shallow mounts 6.5s and put them in the door with custom ¾ inch spacers. They worked pretty good, but no bass at all. Probably a combination of short throw and poor acoustics in the doors. Definitely brought out the highs though. I then got a set of MTX Thunderdome 6.5s for the back. They came with a set of mounting plates and I was able to screw them into the rear deck mounts. Huge magnets on them and there is some decent bass, but overall not what I was expecting. Again, probably a combination of speaker and acoustics. And comparing it to the Infinity 6X9s in my Chrysler with the same deck.

This summer depending on funds I may get a small sub. As it is too when there is any bass there is so much vibration it’s hard to tell if it’s from the speakers or the car. When I have time (and it warms up) I’ll take everything out of the car and work my way up to eliminate the vibrations. It’s definitely been a huge increase. With the old deck and speakers there were some albums on my iphone that were too quiet to hear with both volumes maxed using the aux jack on the front at highway speeds. And forget about listening to anything with the windows down on the highway. I was glad the only option we actually got on that car was A/C!

So $60 for one set of speakers, $90 for the other, and around $40 for the install kit, money well spent for me. Next problem though, there is a bad sodder on the cd changer connection inside the deck. If I hit a bad bump or make a sharp left the power cuts out, sometimes long enough for the whole deck to reset. I have the cable pulled tight in one direction but it only helps a bit. When it warms up I'll have to take the deck out and fix the sodder. And FYI, I need that plug because I'm tapped in to the aux for my iPhone and the cd changer has to running for the rca inputs to be active.