2011 Aveo - Need help with right front bearing - shaft - strut - etc.

Hi Guys, I have a 2011 Aveo with manual transmission, and I have a busted right front bearing that needs replacing. The pic shows where I'm at right now.

I've checked this site out for the bearing replacement posts but all I can find is how they did it with the shaft already removed. And I also checked for shaft removal (and learned that it "pops out") but I couldn't find a post that details shaft removal PLUS what to do with the steering knuckle, suspension, components and everything else that seems in the way, etc.

So I proceeded with removing the steering linkage (and accidentally punctured the grease boot :( ) then I just got started to remove the strut's clamping bolts (as shown in the pic) and noticed the top one is VERY tight. It won't spin or hammer out of the strut clamp unless I use brute force and breaker bar. It won't hammer out too easily. Am I right in suspecting extreme pressure from the strut's coil spring?

So before I go any farther, I figured I'd better ask a few questions!

1) Am I wrong at removing everything in sight to get the drive shaft out of the steering knuckle assembly? Or, is it possible to remove (or install) the drive shaft with the knuckle, steering linkages, ball joints, struts, etc. all in place?

2) In other words... What exactly do I disassemble, to remove the drive shaft?

3) If I remove the strut's clamp bolts, (as shown in the pic) will the strut's coil spring expand with dangerous force? (I'll purchase a coil compression tool if I have to.)

Thanks so much in advance, for any helpful advice, tips etc!

Lee

your best bet is to pop loose the taper of the lower ball joint (after you've removed the Cotter key and nut of course), and then remove the nuts and bolts that attach the steering knuckle to the strut. you only need the Spring Compressor when you are replacing the strut itself. the spring is actually held in place by the top strut mount, which is secured by a nut that threads onto the strut rod, which passes though the top strut mount. and as for the top Strut bolt being very tight; 9 times out of ten, those bolts are actually splined to make sure they don't get loosened by bumps or dips in the road. my advice is to leave the nut on a couple of turns, grab an impact socket the size of the nut, get either a Deadblow hammer or a mini sledge, and drive that bolt out.

i agree. for the most part. You have to take off the knuckle to press in the new bearings, so pull it all apart. the top bolt is probably the adjustment point used by your alignment tech. its probably been put back together with an impact or something. if you can't get it out, that is bad.

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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit

i agree. for the most part. You have to take off the knuckle to press in the new bearings, so pull it all apart. the top bolt is probably the adjustment point used by your alignment tech. its probably been put back together with an impact or something. if you can't get it out, that is bad.

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as I mentioned before, most of the strut bolts I have seen are splined to make sure they don't come loose in case the nut is not properly torqued and it backs off and is lost, because the steering knuckle separating from the strut at high speed could be Potentially LETHAL.

ok when you get the knuckle out, you will need to get the bearing out. That means getting it pressed out. There is a C clip that needs to be removed and then you can press the bearing out. Don't try and knock it out. Go to a machine shop with a hydraulic press.

You can leave the strut on the car and still remove the knuckle. It will just slide off once you get that bolt loose. here is my own thread on this issue.

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f85/r...ng-help-13885/

Thanks guys! Now I'll proceed with more confidence and caution. As I said before, I was mostly afraid the strut's coil spring applying excessive force on the strut's top clamping bolt. (But that's not the case.)

BTW, the strut clamp's nuts do come off easy, it's just that the top bolt itself is hard to spin, and/or knock out, with careful blows of a hammer. Bottom bolt no problem. Now I realize this is normal.

FWIW, I did unthread the top nut flush with the end of the bolt to use it as a hammering (anti-mushrooming) surface, but the bolts have large amounts of unthreaded taper. I felt there aren't enough threads holding the nut on for serious hammering. So now I'll do as suggested, thread the nut onto more threads, and use a impact socket, and hammer away with more force. Then I imagine a punch when the nut bottoms out.

I still need to purchase a large C-clip removal tool. I already tried inserting two 1/8" drill bits into the clip's holes, and squeezed them together with channel locks, but was dangerous and unsuccessful. Maybe I could have tried metric bits for a tighter fit, but the procedure is still dangerous, even though I did wear safety glasses. Gotta get the right tool for the job.

I'll also be purchasing an automotive bearing tool kit.

As the this project progresses, I'll keep you all posted. Thanks again!

Lee

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I still need to purchase a large C-clip removal tool. I already tried inserting two 1/8" drill bits into the clip's holes, and squeezed them together with channel locks, but was dangerous and unsuccessful. Maybe I could have tried metric bits for a tighter fit, but the procedure is still dangerous, even though I did wear safety glasses. Gotta get the right tool for the job.

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A couple of points, removing that C clip, it's evil as hell. Use plenty of BB on it. I used a punch to pry it out. Most of the C clip removers I could buy was not up to the task. So use a punch to grip the C clip to pull it away from the channel. Then take a flat blade screw drive to hold it out.

I have a manual bearing press and it was hard as hell to press the bearing into the knuckle. Ultimately I used a 3/8 rod and built my own press. You will need access to a commercial press to remove it. You will not be able to remove it using manual methods.

Keep us informed on your progress.

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Originally Posted by xintersecty

A couple of points, removing that C clip, it's evil as hell. Use plenty of BB on it. I used a punch to pry it out. Most of the C clip removers I could buy was not up to the task. So use a punch to grip the C clip to pull it away from the channel. Then take a flat blade screw drive to hold it out.

I have a manual bearing press and it was hard as hell to press the bearing into the knuckle. Ultimately I used a 3/8 rod and built my own press. You will need access to a commercial press to remove it. You will not be able to remove it using manual methods.

Keep us informed on your progress.

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Sure thing! This is a weekends only project for now. But I figured this was going to be a tough job. I'll try conventional "homebrew" methods first, including renting or purchasing a bearing kit, Or making my own tools if I have to. But no matter, commercial methods or not, I'll post what worked for me, especially if I saved money!

P.S. I've already made a homemade 1/2" bolt/nut/spacer expander to remove the hub off the steering knuckle. I should've taken pics to share. Maybe this weekend I'll piece it all together for a picture. (I also made a special crankshaft nut removal tool when I changed out my head gasket on an earleir project.)

I really apprieciate the responses, thanks again!

Lee

Here's a couple of pics of the home made bearing removal tool I made.

Cost around 25 dollars at local hardware store. Note: The threaded rod is 12 inches long.

So did it work? If so congratulations. Mine needed more power than that.

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Originally Posted by xintersecty

So did it work? If so congratulations. Mine needed more power than that.

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It sure did!

The first pic shows extreme force needed to break the bearing loose. You may notice I am not using the large PVC coupling. It's all metal doing the work. The washers and unistrut bracket caved in slightly, and I had to double up on the washers.

After the bearing broke "loose" (It is still very tight) I was lucky enough to not destroy the large PVC coupling as it travelled out of the knuckle.

Worked like a champ. Finding a 2-1/2" electrical PVC coupling with a 2-7/8" I.D was the hardest part. I wished for a metal coupling but couldn't find one at the local hardware store. Luckily the PVC coupling worked after it was broke loose.

Bearing job completed! Here's a few more pics. The first pic shows the new bearing installation using the old bearing as a spacer/guide.

The 2nd pic shows how I used two 1/8" allen wrenches and and pair of channel locks to install (and previously remove) the C-clip.

I have to say, I don't have that kind of patience working with it still attached to the ball joint, and turning it out manually.. But I also have a press.

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Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit:

I have to say, I don't have that kind of patience working with it still attached to the ball joint, and turning it out manually.. But I also have a press.

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Yes, a press and proper tools would have been so nice! But I already destroyed one ball joint boot. I was afraid to remove the lower one without the proper tools. (My pickle fork stabbed the 1st one.)

I kept thinking how many times I would actually use an automotive bearing puller, ball joint remover, c-clip remover etc. In this particular case, it wasn't an emergency, and I had lots of time to come up with DIY work arounds. I may have saved money, but I sure didn't save time. I agree I did it the hard way!

Lee

I decided to try and save some money and replace my front right bearing myself, you guys have a lot more persistence than I do. I'm regretting my decision. Now that i'm this far into it, (having the knuckle pulled) I can't quit now. Alas! How do I disconnect the abs sensor to detach it, to work on it? If I'm missing something simple, I'm doing this while under the flu. Only adding the joy of the whole experiance.