•  
    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
    Results 11 to 12 of 12

    Thread: brake drum adjustment

    1. #11
      Lifetime owner
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Pittsburgh
      Posts
      8,013
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      2
      Thanked 171 Times in 142 Posts
      Name:  Screen Shot 2016-06-19 at 2.04.36 PM.jpg
Views: 596
Size:  23.7 KB

      While I have to say, I do not follow this, it follows the circuit of the dual master.. I just go around the system twice. Never try to get the job done in one "lap"

      This also stated the you need to bleed the master first by pulling the lines off, and pressing the pedal once the reattach the lines. So I think as along as you have a systematic method that touches all based you will be fine.




    2. #12
      What's wrong with my car?
      Join Date
      Feb 2016
      Location
      Grand Blanc, MI
      Posts
      5
      Garage empty: add car
      Thanks
      0
      Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
      I haven't forgotten about this... however when I went to start, found that the rear bleeder screws were totally rusted. When I took off the dust caps, about half of the bleeder end came of in the form of rust. I surely expect that these are now seized. So am leaving that project until later. I may have to replace the cylinders and maybe the lines, so I want to take that project on as fully engaged rather than "this **** is easy" attitude.

      I did go ahead and replace the rear shocks, the front struts and sway bar links. The rear shocks were totally rusted through and leaking. One looked more like a statue in the pond peeing because the fluid came out that way. Rust, Rust Rust everywhere. Good thing I am a very persistent cus... I won and the rust lost. Taking it in tomorrow for a wheel alignment.





    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •