Control Arm Stuck Bolt, 2010 Aveo 5

[jbenoit57]

Hello,
I'm attempting to change the control arms on my 2010 Aveo. The front bolt just keeps spinning and seems to be stuck in the bushing (It's not backing out anymore). Does anyone have advice for removing it?
Thank you,
Jeremy

[avguy]

Just checking to make sure you're asking about the front (horizontal) LCA bolt, and not the rear (vertical) one, correct? The reason I ask is that for all of the LCAs that I've done, all front bolts came out with no problems, but every rear bolt was seized into the bushing, and had to be cut out with a recip saw.

[jbenoit57]

Yes, it is the front/horizontal bolt. I marked the threads to be sure it was completely backed out of the frame nut. I turned it many times without its position changing I. As I turn it, it squeaks and is held tightly by the bushing. I'm wondering if there is a tool I could use to remove it without mutilating it.

[avguy]

I'm not certain your second gen Aveo suspension is exactly the same as my first gen, but the LCA part number is the same, so I'll assume they are. The really important thing to know if the captive nut threads in the K frame are still ok, or if they've stripped out. Has the end of the bolt come out of the K frame (can it be wiggled around a bit)? Or, more importantly, can you re-tighten the bolt back at 81 ft lbs into the K frame? I hope those bolt threads haven't stripped because that would be bad news.

If the threads are ok, then the first thing you could try is cutting out the softer bushing material, getting down to the metal bushing sleeve. Then, if you can open and close a vise-grip around the surface of the sleeve, that might be enough to free it up and also counter the torque on the bolt. PB Blaster or LW might also help that process as well.

Or you could heat the sleeve to free it up that way. But if all of that fails, you'll probably need to cut it out with an angle grinder or recip saw. But a disclaimer that I did not need to do that on mine, so I can't tell you exactly how to go about doing that one. You can get replacement bolts at a stealership, or from a U-pull (which is what I did). The 2 bolts are identical. Good luck with it - living in the rust belt makes this stuff become a RPITA.

[jbenoit57]

Thanks for the ideas. I was able to see through a hole in the frame the nuts are intact. I was able to remove the outer rubber part of the bushing. The inner metal sleeve is seized up on the bolt. So badly that it was bending my frame (bushing sleeve pushing out against it) as I was loosening the bolts I've used pb blaster, torch and grabbed onto it with Vise grips. I still can't break it free. I would cut it off, but it's captive in the frame. I guess if I cut it flush I may be able to wrestle the control arm out. I will keep battling it.

[avguy]

Yep, battling is the right word for sure. Have you tried re-threading the bolt back in and applying extra torque? Spec is 81 ft lbs, so you should probably be able to go 110-120 with a torque wrench. I'm thinking it might be possible for the extra pressure from the frame to pop the sleeve free from the bolt.

I know exactly what this seizing is all about, but never had it happen on a front bolt. And that includes a few rusting, junk Aveos that I pulled replacement bolts from as well. This has me wondering if something was changed on the second gen, somehow allowing water to have an easier path into the bolt sleeve.

Were you able to free up the rear, vertical bolt? Those were the ones on mine (and also the junk vehicles) that were lock-seized and (all of them) had to be cut out. It did make sense to me how those became so badly seized, because the vertical position allows gravity to do it's thing helping water travel between the bolt and the sleeve.

[jbenoit57]

I didn't try over torquing it. I decided to cut the bolt off flush with the frame. I drilled it out a few mm. It's still stuck. I'm going to try and cut the bolt on the nut side with a reciprocating saw. I will try retorquing the other (passenger) side-that would be great if it works.
I was able to remove both rear bolts. With, relatively, reasonable effort.

[avguy]

I feel your pain. The design of these parts from a maintenance perspective is not top shelf.

[Stumpy]

Unfortunately, I too share this plight. My passenger LCA ball joint was rocked and I couldn't change it until....


I had to. Along with everything else. Ended up getting a new crossmember k frame .... That was my only solution that fixed the issue in its entirety.
Word to the wise- fix this as soon as you can.

[samtech]

Both my bolts were seized, With a Rotozip I cut away the control arm until the seized bushings were accessible. Then I cut away the rubber bushing, Then I carefully cut a slit in the sleeve hammered in a screwdriver to split it open, removed the bolt. I ordered new bolts from gmpartsdirect.com I picked up some grade 8 12mm 1.25 lock nuts just in case. I'm not sure if the horizontal captive nut in the K frame is ok? But I know the welded square nut for the vertical bolt is stripped. I may need to McGuyver it!