Hello,
I'm attempting to change the control arms on my 2010 Aveo. The front bolt just keeps spinning and seems to be stuck in the bushing (It's not backing out anymore). Does anyone have advice for removing it?
Thank you,
Jeremy
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Hello,
I'm attempting to change the control arms on my 2010 Aveo. The front bolt just keeps spinning and seems to be stuck in the bushing (It's not backing out anymore). Does anyone have advice for removing it?
Thank you,
Jeremy
Just checking to make sure you're asking about the front (horizontal) LCA bolt, and not the rear (vertical) one, correct? The reason I ask is that for all of the LCAs that I've done, all front bolts came out with no problems, but every rear bolt was seized into the bushing, and had to be cut out with a recip saw.
Yes, it is the front/horizontal bolt. I marked the threads to be sure it was completely backed out of the frame nut. I turned it many times without its position changing I. As I turn it, it squeaks and is held tightly by the bushing. I'm wondering if there is a tool I could use to remove it without mutilating it.
I'm not certain your second gen Aveo suspension is exactly the same as my first gen, but the LCA part number is the same, so I'll assume they are. The really important thing to know if the captive nut threads in the K frame are still ok, or if they've stripped out. Has the end of the bolt come out of the K frame (can it be wiggled around a bit)? Or, more importantly, can you re-tighten the bolt back at 81 ft lbs into the K frame? I hope those bolt threads haven't stripped because that would be bad news.
If the threads are ok, then the first thing you could try is cutting out the softer bushing material, getting down to the metal bushing sleeve. Then, if you can open and close a vise-grip around the surface of the sleeve, that might be enough to free it up and also counter the torque on the bolt. PB Blaster or LW might also help that process as well.
Or you could heat the sleeve to free it up that way. But if all of that fails, you'll probably need to cut it out with an angle grinder or recip saw. But a disclaimer that I did not need to do that on mine, so I can't tell you exactly how to go about doing that one. You can get replacement bolts at a stealership, or from a U-pull (which is what I did). The 2 bolts are identical. Good luck with it - living in the rust belt makes this stuff become a RPITA.
Thanks for the ideas. I was able to see through a hole in the frame the nuts are intact. I was able to remove the outer rubber part of the bushing. The inner metal sleeve is seized up on the bolt. So badly that it was bending my frame (bushing sleeve pushing out against it) as I was loosening the bolts I've used pb blaster, torch and grabbed onto it with Vise grips. I still can't break it free. I would cut it off, but it's captive in the frame. I guess if I cut it flush I may be able to wrestle the control arm out. I will keep battling it.
Yep, battling is the right word for sure. Have you tried re-threading the bolt back in and applying extra torque? Spec is 81 ft lbs, so you should probably be able to go 110-120 with a torque wrench. I'm thinking it might be possible for the extra pressure from the frame to pop the sleeve free from the bolt.
I know exactly what this seizing is all about, but never had it happen on a front bolt. And that includes a few rusting, junk Aveos that I pulled replacement bolts from as well. This has me wondering if something was changed on the second gen, somehow allowing water to have an easier path into the bolt sleeve.
Were you able to free up the rear, vertical bolt? Those were the ones on mine (and also the junk vehicles) that were lock-seized and (all of them) had to be cut out. It did make sense to me how those became so badly seized, because the vertical position allows gravity to do it's thing helping water travel between the bolt and the sleeve.
I didn't try over torquing it. I decided to cut the bolt off flush with the frame. I drilled it out a few mm. It's still stuck. I'm going to try and cut the bolt on the nut side with a reciprocating saw. I will try retorquing the other (passenger) side-that would be great if it works.
I was able to remove both rear bolts. With, relatively, reasonable effort.
I feel your pain. The design of these parts from a maintenance perspective is not top shelf.
Unfortunately, I too share this plight. My passenger LCA ball joint was rocked and I couldn't change it until....
Attachment 10659
I had to. Along with everything else. Ended up getting a new crossmember k frame .... That was my only solution that fixed the issue in its entirety.
Word to the wise- fix this as soon as you can.
Both my bolts were seized, With a Rotozip I cut away the control arm until the seized bushings were accessible. Then I cut away the rubber bushing, Then I carefully cut a slit in the sleeve hammered in a screwdriver to split it open, removed the bolt. I ordered new bolts from gmpartsdirect.com I picked up some grade 8 12mm 1.25 lock nuts just in case. I'm not sure if the horizontal captive nut in the K frame is ok? But I know the welded square nut for the vertical bolt is stripped. I may need to McGuyver it!:cool:
Well the threads of the nut housed in the K frame were destroyed also. It happens when you're trying remove the "front" bolt, and the bolt cannot move forward because of the bushing sleeve, so the bolt chews up the threads. So I ended up putting a lock nut behind the welded nut. I used my rotozip and cut a access hole on the bottom of the frame so I could insert the lock nut. Torqued everything to 81 lbs and went on a test drive.:headbang:
How is the test drive? I have a question - the nut in k-frame of my aveo also has a damaged thread. the shop says they could not disrupt the integrity of the frame (to cut bigger hole to put the nut inside). is it possible to weld the inside side of the nut and then to drill the hole and to thread the nut again? what "rules" are saying about it?
thank you.
aveo 2011.
by the way, where to look for a used k-frame with good nuts in case everything else does not work?
Racoon. Are you asking about the horizontal bolt in the front or the vertical bolt in the rear?
Horizontal, in the front bushing of the control arm.Quote:
Originally Posted by PalouseAveo
Anyway, I have already solved this issue - I have found the used sub-frame for 300 cad and installed it. Local mechanics said that with welding I will not pass the safety check.
Good to hear you solved the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Racoon
I had the same thing happen. I ended up boring the hole and nut out with a 27/64" drill bit, threading it with a spark plug rethreading tap (size M12 x 1.25), and installing a M12 X 1.25 X 15.0mm Time-Sert threaded insert. I can torque it to specifications and it has held so far. However, I was ready to purchase a new subframe if it didn't work.
I am having the exact same problem. Just to clarify it is the forward horizontal bolt, the rear vertical came out no problem. I’m lying in my laneway with only hand tools, my reciprocating saw (14tpi nor 18tpi blade) doesn’t seem to cut into the bolt, too tight for a full stroke.
Is the K frame a big job? Looks impossible lying on my back in the dirt. Any suggestions? I have a 4” grinder, but there’s not really enough room to get in there.
I had the same problem a while back. I needed to replace the control arms on my 2009, but the bolts were seized in the bushings. No amount of penetrating oil (of any type) would free them. I came to the same conclusion you did, there is not enough room in there to use a grinding wheel to cut things off. The only solution was to find a shop where they agreed to cut the control arms off with a cut-off torch. It wasn't cheap, but at least it saved the K frame from damage.
Deano
I got mine off finally, got the tip of a Sawzall blade in. Couldn't cut at the front because the hardened tube had slipped forward. Cut through the back end of the bolt at the thread. But it still wouldn't budge. The bolt would not move in the bushing. Took a leap of faith, or lunacy, and sawed the head off flush. The front had bulged out a bit when undoing the bolt. I pounded it with a 2 pounder and pushed the bushing & bolt stub back into the frame enough to wiggle, pry, swear and eventually got it out. Threads in the K fame are damaged, but it looks like 1/2 of them still there.