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    Thread: Control Arm Stuck Bolt, 2010 Aveo 5

    1. #11
      What's wrong with my car?
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      Well the threads of the nut housed in the K frame were destroyed also. It happens when you're trying remove the "front" bolt, and the bolt cannot move forward because of the bushing sleeve, so the bolt chews up the threads. So I ended up putting a lock nut behind the welded nut. I used my rotozip and cut a access hole on the bottom of the frame so I could insert the lock nut. Torqued everything to 81 lbs and went on a test drive.



    2. #12
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      How is the test drive? I have a question - the nut in k-frame of my aveo also has a damaged thread. the shop says they could not disrupt the integrity of the frame (to cut bigger hole to put the nut inside). is it possible to weld the inside side of the nut and then to drill the hole and to thread the nut again? what "rules" are saying about it?
      thank you.
      aveo 2011.
      by the way, where to look for a used k-frame with good nuts in case everything else does not work?

    3. #13
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      Racoon. Are you asking about the horizontal bolt in the front or the vertical bolt in the rear?

    4. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by PalouseAveo View Post
      Racoon. Are you asking about the horizontal bolt in the front or the vertical bolt in the rear?
      Horizontal, in the front bushing of the control arm.
      Anyway, I have already solved this issue - I have found the used sub-frame for 300 cad and installed it. Local mechanics said that with welding I will not pass the safety check.

    5. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by Racoon View Post
      Horizontal, in the front bushing of the control arm.
      Anyway, I have already solved this issue - I have found the used sub-frame for 300 cad and installed it. Local mechanics said that with welding I will not pass the safety check.
      Good to hear you solved the problem.

      I had the same thing happen. I ended up boring the hole and nut out with a 27/64" drill bit, threading it with a spark plug rethreading tap (size M12 x 1.25), and installing a M12 X 1.25 X 15.0mm Time-Sert threaded insert. I can torque it to specifications and it has held so far. However, I was ready to purchase a new subframe if it didn't work.

    6. #16
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      I am having the exact same problem. Just to clarify it is the forward horizontal bolt, the rear vertical came out no problem. I’m lying in my laneway with only hand tools, my reciprocating saw (14tpi nor 18tpi blade) doesn’t seem to cut into the bolt, too tight for a full stroke.
      Is the K frame a big job? Looks impossible lying on my back in the dirt. Any suggestions? I have a 4” grinder, but there’s not really enough room to get in there.

    7. #17
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      I had the same problem a while back. I needed to replace the control arms on my 2009, but the bolts were seized in the bushings. No amount of penetrating oil (of any type) would free them. I came to the same conclusion you did, there is not enough room in there to use a grinding wheel to cut things off. The only solution was to find a shop where they agreed to cut the control arms off with a cut-off torch. It wasn't cheap, but at least it saved the K frame from damage.

      Deano

    8. #18
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      I got mine off finally, got the tip of a Sawzall blade in. Couldn't cut at the front because the hardened tube had slipped forward. Cut through the back end of the bolt at the thread. But it still wouldn't budge. The bolt would not move in the bushing. Took a leap of faith, or lunacy, and sawed the head off flush. The front had bulged out a bit when undoing the bolt. I pounded it with a 2 pounder and pushed the bushing & bolt stub back into the frame enough to wiggle, pry, swear and eventually got it out. Threads in the K fame are damaged, but it looks like 1/2 of them still there.





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