Cost of replacing rear shocks....not as simple as all the youtube videos show

Ok. I know i ask you all about prices before I get things done to my Aveo. BUT I just got an 'appraisal' to replace my rear shocks.....$750! Even stupid me knows that is impossible.
Now I think my mechanics are screwing me, for some reason. Well trying to. I aint paying THAT! IF Monroe shocks cost that much, and I know they dont, I looked them up online, and it is 2.5 hrs to replace each side, the mech. cost per side at $80 per hour, it cant come to $750.
What have you all paid to have these replaced? I have that damn knocking sound coming from the right rear, sounds like a bowling ball knocking around back there over tiny tiny bumps. Over big bumps, not a sound. Rides great! so they tell me it is those uper bushings/mounts, worn out or become loose over the years. so the shocks are not even 'bad' yet! but since they would have to pull it all apart to get to these upper bushings/mounts, might as well replace the shocks...right???!
So it isnt a simple unsrcrew the old shock and screw in a new one, like they show all over 'YouTube'. Of course it cant be that simple, we/I have to have these upper mounts/bushings and other crap! I could change the easy ones on 'YouTube', but i dont dive a Chevy S-10, or some other simple unbolt the old and bolt on the new shock car, I have an Aveo:)

So...what should I be looking at for Tires Plus, or Tire Kingdom or some other mechanic, to replace all the parts of the rear shocks. All those rubber bushings/mounts...that make it so freaking hard to do! Or does someone here have a video, or have a series of pics. that shows how to get to the top of the shock, that is under that hard carpet in the back, and do it myself. I assume it is a DIY job, if you have the tools, and I dont. So i am willing to pay a reasonable price to have it done. But $750?!!! NO! Its time to part out the car and make a big profit and buy a Toyota if it really costs that much!!!

i've had mine in and out in an hour.. its only 3 bolts per side, then swapping the mounts.


the hardest part is the spring loaded axle, if you do both shocks at the same time, it will drop and your springs can be a burden.

Thanks guy...so i take it it isnt $750! right? Can i do it at home without jack stands or major tools? i only have the most basic of 'auto tools. I can do one side at a time, would that hold up the back end,or does it need stands etc...? So what should i expect to pay if i pay like Tire Kingdom to do it? or another mechanic that isnt with a big company? About? IF i order shocks online or buy them at a parts store, am i geting ALL the parts i need. or is there a special 'kit' that i need on top of the shocks? Those bushings/mounts that are on the top....do they come with the shocks? or are they extra?

'Rabbit' Can i replace these top rubber bushings/mounts, whatever they are called on that one side???? What is the kit called? Can i buy it from a parts store? Or so these parts only come with a new shock? IF I get to the top of that shock,under that hard formed carpet in the back that covers the shock tops, can i just replace the part/parts that re loose/worn out? OR do i HAVE to get the shock replaced? I think i could do the replacement of this rubber part/mount, what is it called? What do i ask to order,if you know. Please advise. Thanks guy. Stan would i have to jack up the car or put it on jack stands, none of which i have of course. BUT i could borrow. IF i could just replace these top parts. The ride is just fine. It is these top parts that are loose or worn out over time.
So....how much could it be? If I know what to ask for. I could even ask a mechanic to replace JUST that part of that shock.....right????

I replaced my rear shocks and upper mounts. its not that difficult. I purchased the parts from rockauto. I purchased the

MONROE 5794 OESpectrum Passenger Car (rear)

strut mount rear.
KYB SM5452
Rear Upper

no way for $750. it's not too tough at all. it's easier than the front, easier than a brake rebuild, and many others things. I would say difficulty wise it is in between changing brake pads and an oil change.

i just need the floor jack, jack stands, the tools, and buy the parts first, and then buy/rent the jacks jack stands, if i can. I have no idea what part the stands go under, and what part gets jacked up. I have got the parts priced out at around $140 delivered,no one has them in stock, if i could find a mech. that doesnt charge $600 to do an hour job, i would be set. But so far Ft.Laud. Fla. seems set to screw me till I beg to be shot!

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Originally Posted by FlaAveo5

i just need the floor jack, jack stands, the tools, and buy the parts first, and then buy/rent the jacks jack stands, if i can. I have no idea what part the stands go under, and what part gets jacked up. I have got the parts priced out at around $140 delivered,no one has them in stock, if i could find a mech. that doesnt charge $600 to do an hour job, i would be set. But so far Ft.Laud. Fla. seems set to screw me till I beg to be shot!

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That is how I started. I just keep buying sockets and tools for when I need them. I even have the custom tool to do the front struts for these aveo's.
Jacking points
picture_4752.jpg Photo by RonJ_HT | Photobucket

I have dome some work on the aveo that did take some effort. the easiest to do are rear wheel bearings (just need a press) and the rear struts are very easy. I haven't found anything too difficult to do except some of the things are rusted together. that is the difficult part.

It is very rewarding doing the work yourself IMO. you really appreciate a great running/riding car.

Just wondering, how are your two rear bushings on the trailing arms? those might be something you want to change as well. I suggest poly bushings as they last a long time and hold an alignment well.

Keep posting if you need help.

my rear bushings on the top of the right rear shock is the problem. There is nothing wrong with the shocks. I just want to replace the top bushing/mount....and can buy it for like $25...but it seems everyone thinks I am thinking of shooting the president if i ONLY do that.
THAT is the 'hard' part to get to and replace. I can get the kit that has all the pieces, but I need to jack up the back, put stands someplace under the suspension, etc.....so...thats where i am stuck. All I want to do is replace the top busing 'kit', it is the problem. And these unreal estimates i am getting dont include replacing the top bushing/mounting plate. I would think replacing JUST that top part would not have to jack up half the car to get to it and replace it. But I am told i am wrong, and no one says different. So IF i do anything, i have to BUY a floor jack,jack stands, tools, and THEN figure out where to put everything. I am online now looking at 'free repair manuals'...that all turn out to be like $19.99 per month to get access to...thats free? IF i buy a repair manual from Chilton....i think it is like more than the shocks! I'm getting VERY pissed at this car.

First - When was the last time the shocks have been replaced? If its anything over 30k miles, I would just replace them as you have to remove them anyway. Most fwd cars have the same or similiar suspension setup as the Aveo. Changing the suspension of a Civic is pretty muc the same as changing it on your Aveo. Just watch a few youtube videos and adapt it to your Aveo.

Second- Don't get pissed at you car because you dont want to/cant fix it. Its a car; things break and routine maintenance needs to be done. Its not like you engine grenaded on you for no reason. Bushings going out is normal. You dont want to buy tools because you can't store them anywhere, and then you complain that going to the shop is too much $$. Either find a new shop and get a better estimate, or just buy the tools and store them somewhere. You dont need a heavy duty jack for an Aveo. You can get a small one that fits underneath a bed. Same with jack-stands. Also, the owner's manual shows you where you can place jack stands and lift points.

Instead of paying $750 at a shop, buy the parts you need and spend the rest on tools. Jack, jack stands, impact gun, sockets, tool set, etc.

yeah i need to buy an impact gun, and the air compressor to run it,...buy all the tools to fit this car,all the parts to repalce the top of this shock,plus the shocks,and find a place to do this work, and then when the cars gone, dead,sold, I have tools that dont fit the next one. And I have tons of room to store it all in my 5 car garage. NOT! All I asked for at the start of this question was how much others paid to get it done. You have $750 to pay for it? Think thats a fair price? Good for you. Send it my way. I'm not proud. and others think it is WAY to high as well. I am looking for other places. So far $450 is the lowest. Still to much for a 60 min. job. The jack stands dont even go where my owners manual says to jack it up by the way!. Sounds like you need to read yours again! So I need to find out where they go, so i dont crush some other part. Make sense???? By the time I buy all this stuff . I might as well spend $750 on these crooked mechs. Geez! Thanks for the helpful input.

$750 is way too high. You could do this in a driveway with hand tools in under 4 hours with basic mechanical knowledge. It's not that difficult.

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Originally Posted by FlaAveo5

yeah i need to buy an impact gun, and the air compressor to run it,...buy all the tools to fit this car,all the parts to repalce the top of this shock,plus the shocks,and find a place to do this work, and then when the cars gone, dead,sold, I have tools that dont fit the next one. And I have tons of room to store it all in my 5 car garage. NOT! All I asked for at the start of this question was how much others paid to get it done. You have $750 to pay for it? Think thats a fair price? Good for you. Send it my way. I'm not proud. and others think it is WAY to high as well. I am looking for other places. So far $450 is the lowest. Still to much for a 60 min. job. The jack stands dont even go where my owners manual says to jack it up by the way!. Sounds like you need to read yours again! So I need to find out where they go, so i dont crush some other part. Make sense???? By the time I buy all this stuff . I might as well spend $750 on these crooked mechs. Geez! Thanks for the helpful input.

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They make battery powered impact guns. I have a 18v Ridgid and it works excellent. There is no need for an air gun unless you are a professional mechanic.

Most tools will work on most cars. Every manufacturer is using metric bolts and fasteners nowadays. And either way, tools are an investment. You buy em once, you wont need to buy them again.

And most of the time, owners manuals specify lift points. I just double checked mine, and your right; their not in there. But if you don't know how to properly jack your car, you shouldn't be working on your car anyway unless you want 2500lb of car crushing your chest.

I agree with the others. This is a pretty simple job.

1) Jack up the car. Be careful and make sure it is steady if you just have the OEM tire changing jack... those things are not that safe if you're crawling around the car while its up in the air.
2) Remove the strut. There are 2 bolts on top that you get to from inside the car and one on the bottom.

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...ed-capture-jpg

3) Remove the mount. The only tricky part about this is stopping the strut shaft from turning. They always have some sort of provision to stop it from turning though. The shaft may have flats on it to get a wrench on.
4) Install new mount. Again, tricky part is stopping the shaft from turning.
5) Reinstall the new strut.

FWIW: I bought most of my tools over 35 years ago, to work on cars that are no longer made. I still use those same tools on a daily basis to fix just about everything. Tools are never a waste of money if you have two hands to use them - IMO. They will pay for themselves MANY times over.

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Originally Posted by slayerized6

They make battery powered impact guns. I have a 18v Ridgid and it works excellent. There is no need for an air gun unless you are a professional mechanic.

Most tools will work on most cars. Every manufacturer is using metric bolts and fasteners nowadays. And either way, tools are an investment. You buy em once, you wont need to buy them again.

And most of the time, owners manuals specify lift points. I just double checked mine, and your right; their not in there. But if you don't know how to properly jack your car, you shouldn't be working on your car anyway unless you want 2500lb of car crushing your chest.

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See.....I knew there was no way to know where to put the jack stands,let alone how to lift the back in the right place to put the stands in the right places. Does ANYONE know where they go. Since everyone here says they have replaced them themselves someone must know this info. The manual only tells where to jack the sides up to replace a flat tire. This is the info. i need to do it myself. I know i can do this change with my hand tools, once i get them all, (the floor jack and stands maybe i can rent for 1 day ,i am looking online now for that). So...where has everyone put their stands and jacked the car up to put them in the back? It would be a great help to know, doing the replacement I think i got down now, but now it is where are the jacking points, and where do the stands go once it is up??. Thanks.

Flaveo, I would think the rear of the car is light enough you should be fine to support the rear at the body pinch welds - in the absence of a more solid location. I have only used the rear beam (have not replaced shocks to be specific) to lift the car. Typically the strongest part of a unibody floorpan is at the pinch welds right under the rocker box/panels.

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Originally Posted by 06T200

Flaveo, I would think the rear of the car is light enough you should be fine to support the rear at the body pinch welds - in the absence of a more solid location. I have only used the rear beam (have not replaced shocks to be specific) to lift the car. Typically the strongest part of a unibody floorpan is at the pinch welds right under the rocker box/panels.

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Can the car be lifted on the beam in the back with a floor jack?, and change the shocks that way, leaving a floor jack on the beam? Take the tires off like changing a flat, then lift it off the ground to get to the top of the shock, and to get the wheels off of course. I wont be under the car at anytime, except in the wheelwell. Wont lifting it on that rear beam be 'safe'? More than the pinch welds?

Hell today was the first time i even saw that i have that beam in the back! I thought it had independent suspension!!! I see the springs for the rear suspension in the back, but they are further in on the beam, not on the shock, so taking the shock out, and putting it back in with the new top mount kit, the bushings/plate (the 3 parts i see that come with ever rear mount kit for this car that I see)...and compressing the shock to make it fit back in doesnt seem to be a heavy job, it isnt like a strut. So to get the top in place and just pushing up on the new shock, it will fit to the bottom connection point, and its on, once its tightened of course. Do i need to buy any other bushings or little parts like that?? I looked on RockAuto and it came up with a bunch of different sized rubber bushings for this cars rear shock. But dont they all come with the shock itself alrady?

I know i shouldnt ask this to anyone. BUT i am looking at buying Monroe ES-Spectrum', 5794, shocks and the Monroe top mounting kit. Are Monroes a good fit for the car. Or do you all have another favorite? KYB seems to be the only other one to buy, but you have to buy a 'dust boot' for each one, it doesnt come with the top cover on it, like the OEM has on it, or the Monroes. Thanks.

For safety I would support the car on stands before risking life and limb to a floor jack. But sure lifting via the beam is fine, never been a problem for me.

The new shocks will come with new rubber bushings as they do wear out, and normally fall apart on removal.

I bought the KYB shocks and the monroes would be fine. You can put the jack right next to the rear axle mount. You need to let the beam float so you can move the shock up and the beam down for removal.

Google where to place the jack stands. It's too confusing to explain subframes, pinch welds, and support pieces. But if you can't get underneath your car and understand where to place jackstands, you shouldnt be working on your car, period.

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Originally Posted by 06T200

For safety I would support the car on stands before risking life and limb to a floor jack. But sure lifting via the beam is fine, never been a problem for me.

The new shocks will come with new rubber bushings as they do wear out, and normally fall apart on removal.

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I would think i would have to jack the car up first, before i can put the jacks in their places. Right? So wont jacking it up via the beam, and then putting the jacks under the beam, be the right place to put them? I'll try to look up online for the place to put jack stands for he car. Maybe it says it someplace. I finally got a reasonable price to have it done by a mech. That is mobile...he comes to my home and does the work here. He is ASE certified and all. To do the job he is pricing it at 2 hrs, for $150. So if I order the parts on RockAuto or PartsGeek, it comes to like $90 for the parts. So total $240 range. That is fine by me. But I would like to do it myself,to know how to do it. But is that a reasonable price? 2 hrs $150? to replace the shocks and the mounts/bushings?

ok i got to look up where this is, to jack it up right. Thanks.

$150, for 2 hours is $75 an hour. Paying a company who is insured, that is more than a fair price compared to $100+ that a lot of shops charge.


You could jack it up using the beam. Then support the car on jack stands using the pinch welds on the rocker (where you would put a emergency jack for spare). You would then use the floor jack to hold the beam to ease removal of the shocks. (would want the beam to hang, but not drop further when you take the shocks out).


this is really really really close to the aveo, you can do it this way if you can compress the shock by hand..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCj8lZbZ3pE

what is really really close on the car? The pinch welds? I know where those are. Using the beam with the floor jack,wouldnt it be held up by the floor jack,but its held up by the stands at teh same time? Do i lift the beam higher to get the new shock IN,or OUT? Is that what you mean? I ordered the parts ,now i wait for them,and find someone to borrow a floor jack from and stands. so,light it on the beam,put the stand at the pinch welds so the wheels are off the ground? Then lift it higher to get the shocks OFF? Or lower it with the floor jack to get them OFF or ON? I JUST found the 'jacking point' on the rear, online in a picture from a manual,but no info on how to repair it of course:) So i can lift it at the 'right place', if needed. Then put the stands in. But then do i raise it or lower it to install? Others have been very helpful, but YOU seem to be the only one that knows how to do this! Thank you.

Oh man, you're making this harder than it needs to be.
1) Break the lug nuts
2) Jack the car up and it's ok to use the beam
3) Support the car with a jack stand
4) Remove the tire
5) Remove the bottom bolt holding the shock
6) by letting out the jack to let the beam down There is a magic point where there is no tension on the bolt
7) Remove the top nuts and pull the shock
8) Put in a new shock, jack up the beam to help the bottom bolt
9) put the tire back on
10) remove the jack stand
11) Torque the wheel nuts
12) BAM! your done

I know this is a first time, get a car buddy and just do it. First times are always frightening but once you put the wrench in hand that's how you build experience. So go do it!

and replace the 'top mounting plate/bushing/kit'....on top of the shock, got to watch how it comes out, to replace it the right way.:)
Thanks, but not knowing where to jack this up, and where to put those jack stands has been whats giving me fits. Now that i found that info. online someplace, i am just waiting for the parts to arrive. And now starting to beg/borrow the jack stands, floor jack, and a STRONG 'X cross' lug nut wrench, to get off these lug nuts off, that Tires Plus gunned on and I cant get off. I snapped the jack handle from my cars tire kit, trying to get them off, they are on SO tight!

Dude, I know sometimes funds can be tight. Harbor Freight is your friend
Harbor Freight Tools

There are some things you need to buy and keep. I would get a set of 3/4 drive metric sockets and get a breaker bar
20" Breaker Bar Tool - 3/4 Drive

Here is final deposition on the thread.
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f85/f...18/#post197487

I have had my Rears replaced with Munroe shocks, the first time the selling dealer tightened the top centre nut too tight on one shock and lost the gas.
Next time I had a local chap (auto engineer) change one at my home, all better now! There was a notice issued by GM-H about top nut tension around 10 years back, he was involved in that program so removed both and matched the tension on both shocks.

A person that does not want to buy tooling and documentation to repair / maintain their car , should pay a mechanic .

If they do not want to pay a mechanic , than they should try walking .

If you want to know where to place the jack and the jack stands , try posting good photos of the underside of the car .

God bless
Wyr

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Originally Posted by WyrTwister

A person that does not want to buy tooling and documentation to repair / maintain their car , should pay a mechanic .

If they do not want to pay a mechanic , than they should try walking .

If you want to know where to place the jack and the jack stands , try posting good photos of the underside of the car .

God bless
Wyr

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I at least TRY to do my own repairs. I ask for help. And some of the NICE guys on here try and help. I know I cant do most of the 'mechanical repairs'. Maintenance is what I can do . With the massive amount of posts YOU have made, THIS is as helpful as you can be? I went to a mechanic to install them, once I found a reasonable price. You got $750 to replace 2 shocks??? Good for you. I don't!! Try reading all the posts from the start. I waited till I found a reasonably priced shop to install them. Thanks to others telling me that it CAN be done on my own, I considered it, but cant store all the tools needed to fix this. Then stocking up tools to do the coming work over the next years? No room to store them all. Glad you can store a mechanics stock of tools.
But I dont have the room. So I got it done by someone that could do it, at a great rate!

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Originally Posted by FlaAveo5

i just need the floor jack, jack stands, the tools, and buy the parts first, and then buy/rent the jacks jack stands, if i can. I have no idea what part the stands go under, and what part gets jacked up. I have got the parts priced out at around $140 delivered,no one has them in stock, if i could find a mech. that doesnt charge $600 to do an hour job, i would be set. But so far Ft.Laud. Fla. seems set to screw me till I beg to be shot!

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There are garages where you can rent time and use their tools and equipment. Around here it's 80$ a day.

I used the coilovers cross post and it worked and slices the saggy rear end. Special tool to remove the mount

I did not read the other thread , until after I posted this reply . I then knew , yes , you found a " reasonably priced " mechanic . Good , I am glad for you . You got it done .

Yes , I have space for the tooling .

Some one suggested you store yours under your bed . That will not work ?

If you lived local to me , I would have been willing to loan you tools ( as long as they never left my sight , I do not know you ) . Helped you , or at least , stood to the side ( out of your way ) and offered instruction / advice . Helped you , if you needed it , reading & interpreting a Chilton or Haynes book on your car .

And , unless we lived local to you , we can not advise you to go to mechanic ABC or mechanic XYZ . But I personally can not give advice on reasonable mechanics . I have been doing most ( but not quite all ) of my repairs for around 40 -45 years . ( one of the exceptions is transmission work . )

But you might as well understand . You got the work done . You paid the labor . Very good . But the money you paid is gone . You can continue to do that , essentially for as long as you are driving .

Or , you can figure out how to store tools and how to use them . If you buy decent tools , they will serve you your whole life , if you take care of them and keep up with them . That money spent , continues to serve you . It is not gone .

You have an advantage I did not have when I started wrenching , as a kid . The internet . I do not start out on a project , unless I have searched YouTube and other videos . And text documentation . An enormous help .

I also had a wonderful Dad that thought me basic car repair / maintenance . And , my Senior year in High School , I was in a program at school where I went to class 1/2 a day and worked at the Dodge dealership 1/2 a day . As a gofer , but I also helped the mechanics , too .

And , no , I have not done your specific repair on your specific car . My interest in the Aveo is since it is more or less the predecessor to the 2015 Sonic my Wife and I bought last June . The only thing I have done to it so far is maintain the air pressure , fluids and change the oil / filter .

But , I am getting to the age where a time will probably come , when I will have to hire some work done ( or purchase a newer / replacement vehicle ) . Such is life .

Best of luck , :-)
Wyr
God bless

Jack stand on rear pinch weld. Once tire is in the air and off, undo the bottom 14mm bolt. push up and take it out its holder and then unbolt the top mount and its out