Dragging Front Passenger Side Brake Caliper Diagnosed

[northguest47]

Good to know, about the brakes and the c-clamp, Slayerized - the drivers side piston compressed really easily and I didn't bottom it out hard so I hope no damage was done. I didn't apply the clamp on the friction side of the material for the passenger side, I used both pads and pushed from the back of the second pad. I fully compressed the piston and then pushed it back out about 6 or seven times, by then it was compressing as easily as the drivers side. Then I compressed it one more time, then bled a small amount of brake fluid out with 2 ppl, then pushed and compressed the piston two more times. It felt smooth again like the drivers side, so I know probably a replace should be done soon, it was good enough for now. So after finishing all this up the brake reservoir was lower than middle but not at the low point so it needs topping up.
I went to go for a test drive and when I backed out of the driveway I pulled the parking brake hard to reset the rear brakes. The thing is I had to stop and turn around as there is this terrible knuckle grinding sound coming from the rear brakes.
What happened to the rears now? Is it because they have to be bled too? Did I push an air bubble back to them or something? I also did notice there is a lot of free travel in the pedal too.

[petrified.rabbit]

if you bled the brakes you need to bleed the whole system.
Beyond that, I can't guess why the rears sound like they do..

[northguest47]

if you bled the brakes you need to bleed the whole system.
Beyond that, I can't guess why the rears sound like they do..

Ok I have time to tackle this tomorrow, I have 1/4 aquarium tubing, and a helper.. just wondering what order I should do them??
The sound from the rear brakes on the test drive was really terrible like a knocking crunching sound.. from both sides.. never heard it before. Well guess I'm pulling the drums too.

[northguest47]

Bwaaaahhh!! Ok have to admit it - I forgot to torque the lugs on the rear wheels, thats what the noise was. Bet I'm not the first one to do that hehe.. so a lot was learned in this task. For now alls I did was free up the piston on the passenger side, I'm going to order a new seal and install that next. I think this should do the trick for the winter.. so test drive today went fine, I think there is a tiny tiny bit of shake on the passenger side but its really minimal, I'm going to keep driving and see what happens, might replace that rotor (Edit: no rotor is fine because braking is smooth, the wheel is prob out of balance). Now that I know how to do the front and rear brakes I've got a lot more confidence to tackle something a bit more difficult, that control arm. And installing the new end link adapters rabbit sent me.
I want to close up with one thought about bleeding brakes - I have a whole roll of aquarium tubing and wonder - can't I run a tube from the bleeder up and back into the main reservoir, and then just pump the brakes as many times as I want like say 100 times? The tubing is large enough on the inside for the air bubbles to rise and that way the brake fluid could just be cycled around. Just a though for when I do that caliper seal.

[xintersecty]

I want to close up with one thought about bleeding brakes - I have a whole roll of aquarium tubing and wonder - can't I run a tube from the bleeder up and back into the main reservoir, and then just pump the brakes as many times as I want like say 100 times? The tubing is large enough on the inside for the air bubbles to rise and that way the brake fluid could just be cycled around. Just a though for when I do that caliper seal.

Personally I would get an auto-bleeder and replace all your fluid

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/u...-review-16303/

[Hoosiertrucker]

Personally I would get an auto-bleeder and replace all your fluid

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/u...-review-16303/

Agreed. I used to work at an auto parts store as a shift manager for many years, and bleeding brakes really wants to have the catch bottle above the level of the brake cylinder. The little one man bleeder kits are great. I've used them myself, as I rarely have someone around to help. They come with instructions on how to use them, and are pretty easy.

As far as bleeding the brakes in an order, always start with the brake tkat is the furthest away from the master cylinder, as in the right rear, then the left rear, right front, then finish off with the left front. That will assure you that you've gotten all of the air out of the braking system, and not just moving front to back. That may be why you have a soft and spongy brake pedal. Usually an indicator that there is still air in the system. It's also always recommended that when bleeding brakes to do all four, and not just fronts or backs only.

Hope this helps.