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    Thread: Drum Brake Nightmare...

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      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      well when you buy a car (new) you should be doing a brake system flush within the first year or so or when the fluid test fails at that time I remove all the bleeder screws, replace poor ones and apply a thick coat of antisieze on them, reinstall and bleed. I then flush the system once per year after that so it keeps all the bleed screws workable. I keep a few new spares on hand so I can change out any that deteriorate while doing the flush. If you replace one wheel cylinder you should really do both, anything done to an axle side should be done on the other side..at least that's the rule I use this just keeps everything working the same and as it should. To adjust rear brakes, backup and make a brake application this works the self-adjuster...or in some cases it's the e-brake. If you don't make firm brake applications when you back up, sometimes the self-adjusters don't adjust and in time seize up and don't work at all.

      Leave the teflon tape in your tool box, job worth doing is worth doing right....and your right I see no way to adjust my rear brakes with drum and wheel on the car either there's no access via the backing plate to the adjuster wheel.
      Last edited by HeavyDuty; 08-09-2012 at 02:42 PM.

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