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alright had to check the engine bay today and i noticced that the shocks have a threaded rod which comes up into the engine which attches it to the cars...now i know everyone complains that when you make a strut bar that attached to the two holes next to it that it doesnt complete do the job....so why not make a mount that attaches to threaded rod and the two other holes? would that work by actually connecting the two together?
thats how mine is it attaches to the threaded nipple and to two holes which i had to make myself and do the same for the other side and then I custom bent a piece of tubing and attached to the fab'd alu. plate.
i think it sounds in theroy it could work but im not the expert to ask.
put it this way its a noticable diff. in yaw and weight distribution
damn wish i had a digital camera
could you post up pics of it??
NO camera to take pics (to post) srry....
lol i wonder why no one has mentioned this before....i just wanted to make sure i wasnt going to bend that or anything
first you need to put a rubber gromit or boot over the threaded part then slip the plate on over it so that you dont destroy the threads
yea thats what i figured
If you make the strut bar a permenant fixture (i.e. don't take it off on teh weekends) you shouldn't have a problem with it eating tee threads. That's an integral part of the strut anyway, so when you replace them you get a brand new shiny threaded surface.
All my rear bars for the Lanos sit on the threads without a problem
Why not have the Strut tower caps bolt to the mounting plate of the strut bar, tieing the two in together. Thus creating the bond you guys are talking about?
I would go for the holes in the the actual sheet metal of the strut towers but the effect is the same as being attached to the strut bolts. Either way the handling of the car will be improved :wink:
We'll determine witch way our strut bar will be made once we got that test car in the shop ;)
:roll: already done this and now its going to be lame because everyone else is getting the same thing now so i want to improve the design to work the best it can.....Quote:
Originally Posted by RedGTZ
thats what i was talking about...use the two holes in the sheet metal and the threaded rod but you have to take the nut off and the black thing the nut sits down in....Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteraven
yea but in the front there is another nut just on the other side of the sheet metal that holds the spring on...so if you damage the thread you wont be able to get you springs off, so unless you plan on changing springs with new struts i would use something to protect it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Audacity Racing
if there is a nut on, it will re-groove teh threads. Or go to Harbo Freight and buy a $20 tap and dieQuote:
Originally Posted by AVE0SAM
Given i work in a tire shop that does a lot of suspension work and have done some suspension work myself on my project car. I can see one problem with this...attaching to the threaded rod has two problems...one this rod is the upper pivot for your front suspension since there are no upper ball joints in these cars. two..its in a bushing for a reason..and this is to serve reason one and to allow some flexability.
thats the hole purpose of the strut bar to eleminate the flex and have the yaw and sway of the car the same on both sides.
I did the bolt top to bolt top thing on the back of my lanos and would highly NOT recommend it.
Imagine this, as you turn in to a hard corner the top of the inside wheel pushes in, you can see this in any old car as it rounds a bend. Well that is going to transfer to the other side of the car as well pushing the top OUT. so on a right hand turn you have the inside of the tire gripping on the right and the outside of the tire gripping on the left.
I tried it both ways and with the bar on the car was basically unsafe. In the rain it was basically a drift machine. On the track I had it completely sideways at the top of the hill at willow springs, opposite lock and into the gas just to try to get it straight. I did but the rest of the day I had to go a lot slower than I should have around that particular turn to keep the car from rotating.
I would also worry about the extra stress on the bolts, but hey its your car.
Pillowballs in in the works...
Are talking front or rear here subachad?
Rear on my LanosQuote:
Originally Posted by ontarian_frog
kk was getting confused for a sec.
so you didnt try it in the front subachad? because thats what i meant...so a rear strut bar wouldnt be a good idea?
Ok, he's saying that the single bolt setup, as seen on the FRONT of the Aveo, is the same setus as the Lanos REAR.Quote:
Originally Posted by AVE0SAM
My thing though is that on the Lanos, the rear is a semi-independant. The springs and shocks have no bearing what-so-ever on the camber.
In the case of the Aveo front, since the pressure is on the top side of the pivot, you would actually be causing increased camber by using a strut bar that connects the two bolts across the tops.
But again, as I said earlier, there are pillowballs in development for the Lanos, Aveo, and Reno/Forenza
I am completely sold on strut tower bars both front and rear. I'm just saying don't use the strut/shock bolts as mounting points.
The "5th Spring" element in the Aveo is really strong and chassis bracing will benefit the car a LOT. So will stiffer springs and matched shocks/struts.
I'm still waiting for a rear swaybar or torsion bar for the aveo. At least the Lanos had a torsion bar, for some reason the aveo has the holes for one, but does not actually have one installed in the rear.