Why not have the Strut tower caps bolt to the mounting plate of the strut bar, tieing the two in together. Thus creating the bond you guys are talking about?
Why not have the Strut tower caps bolt to the mounting plate of the strut bar, tieing the two in together. Thus creating the bond you guys are talking about?
I would go for the holes in the the actual sheet metal of the strut towers but the effect is the same as being attached to the strut bolts. Either way the handling of the car will be improved
We'll determine witch way our strut bar will be made once we got that test car in the shop
already done this and now its going to be lame because everyone else is getting the same thing now so i want to improve the design to work the best it can.....Originally Posted by RedGTZ
thats what i was talking about...use the two holes in the sheet metal and the threaded rod but you have to take the nut off and the black thing the nut sits down in....Originally Posted by whiteraven
yea but in the front there is another nut just on the other side of the sheet metal that holds the spring on...so if you damage the thread you wont be able to get you springs off, so unless you plan on changing springs with new struts i would use something to protect it.Originally Posted by Audacity Racing
if there is a nut on, it will re-groove teh threads. Or go to Harbo Freight and buy a $20 tap and dieOriginally Posted by AVE0SAM
Given i work in a tire shop that does a lot of suspension work and have done some suspension work myself on my project car. I can see one problem with this...attaching to the threaded rod has two problems...one this rod is the upper pivot for your front suspension since there are no upper ball joints in these cars. two..its in a bushing for a reason..and this is to serve reason one and to allow some flexability.
thats the hole purpose of the strut bar to eleminate the flex and have the yaw and sway of the car the same on both sides.
I did the bolt top to bolt top thing on the back of my lanos and would highly NOT recommend it.
Imagine this, as you turn in to a hard corner the top of the inside wheel pushes in, you can see this in any old car as it rounds a bend. Well that is going to transfer to the other side of the car as well pushing the top OUT. so on a right hand turn you have the inside of the tire gripping on the right and the outside of the tire gripping on the left.
I tried it both ways and with the bar on the car was basically unsafe. In the rain it was basically a drift machine. On the track I had it completely sideways at the top of the hill at willow springs, opposite lock and into the gas just to try to get it straight. I did but the rest of the day I had to go a lot slower than I should have around that particular turn to keep the car from rotating.
I would also worry about the extra stress on the bolts, but hey its your car.
Pillowballs in in the works...