Do you read my posts or just scan them? You make arguments against things I'm not even saying...
Do you read my posts or just scan them? You make arguments against things I'm not even saying...
Originally Posted by Audacity RacingOriginally Posted by aveodude
i dont get it?? should i use r1's slotted or cross drilled or both or stick with oem's when its time to change the rotors
this was a heated debate... they can both be "right" because one is talking from common knowledge while the other is talking from personal experience.
but basically, if you don't push your stock brakes hard stay stock, its usually the cheapest option.
if you would like a little more performance, typically just upgrade to a semi metallic pad, this will cause the rotors to wear a little more quickly, and cause dust. but you "should" pick up some stopping distance. semi metallic pads will run hotter though.
if you do something like auto cross, or make long slowing stops after drag racing. you will want to have either slotted or drilled rotors (or both). these crack over time, the designs they use are taken from cars that originally would have the brakes changed every race. like stated about other compounds can have them longer because they don't have cracking issues like steel ones.
in common use. slots mostly benefit the pads, drilled mostly benefit the rotor. they both allow gases to escape which benefit both. however the slots deglaze the pads if the pads run hot. the drill holes "cool" the rotor. knowing which you need is based on when your brakes fade. once you experience brake fade and tear your brakes apart, its usually easy to see which got hot.. if the pads are glazed you might want slots. but if the rotor looks like a rainbow of metal heating you will want drilled. sometimes if you wait too long or push the car too hard, both will happen so you will want both. but these "performance" rotors do not last as long as solid rotors.. unless you need the cooling benefits, as glazed/warped stock rotors don't last very long.
you can also use semi-metallic pads and drilled slotted rotors.. for improvements overall. but brake options depend on driving and your needs of performance. also drilled and slotted rotors typically do not improve stopping distance. the improve fade. but only size will improve distance.
i've locked up my brakes a few times. the stock brakes work pretty good. i would probably keep oem style rotors and pads, maybe go semi-metallic, but spend the money upgrading the fluid, and get metal flex lines.
once summer comes around i think i may look into a big brake kit. 11.3 inch in the front, and 9" discs in the back. using OEM manufacturer parts. (not gm)
Holy crap, I remember this thread now lol.
It depends on what you are looking for. If you are looking for faster stopping (shorter braking distance), stick with the OEM stuff and get yourself better tires.Originally Posted by acdc1287
If you are looking for less brake fade during an auto-x course or road course, get the slotted with upgraded pads, new brake fluid, and steel braided lines.
If you want flashy on the streets, get either slotted and drilled
Just keep in mind, your braking system works only as well as you tires. If you can lock up your tires with the stock braking system, you have more power left in them. Brake fade is a whole other story though.
I made my debate from more than just common knowledge.Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
FWIW, the reason that drag cars use drilled or slotted (or both) rotors is for unsprung weight. Not for actual braking.Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
yeah.. i meant common knowledge of people who know brakes...
unsprung weight is also why most drag cars dont go to up sized rotors. but i didn't know the weight difference was enough to help.. ill have to measure them and see.
"you will never find a place to remove 100 pounds but you will find 100 places to remove one pound"
Every little bit helps. Most are not even vented so that they can be as thin as possible.
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Pages/15/index.asp
Plus going with bigger sized brakes means not fitting sized slicks. Most slicks are 13"-15". Some are larger but the vast majority are in that size range.
drag cars don't really need brakes, one stop from 130mph is not so bad... it's repeated 100-40mph stops that truly test your brakes.
I have been to many track events and most track cars are running solid rotors.
Here is a quote from Tirerack.com
Brake Rotors and Track Use
Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.
While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable.
edit: do is not the new to
i have heard that quote. but drag racing isn't really my thing so your giving me new info..