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    Thread: Need Strut...

    1. #11
      Almost time to do my timing belt ontarian_frog's Avatar
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      Quote Originally Posted by subachad
      Now why do people say the lanos is the same as the Aveo? What's the same about it?
      It's the predecessor to the Kalos, an earlier body style that's all. That's why I said it was the same. Cars with the same name, but will have different body style will be massively overhauled. Like a 2004 Impala and a 2007 Impala. Nothing is the same about them, yet they have the same name.


      I leased Pontiac Wave from September 2006 to August 2011.

    2. #12
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      Thanks for the help/replies guys.

      So I got an email from MassHighway in response to me claim for repairs reimbursement.

      It was in a strange file format and had to open in notepad, but the jist of it is it seems it has to be in writing and mailed to the department, not emailed. So I shall do that.

      I really like the way it rides right now, but I would like some better cornering, like on ramps to highways, it tilts quite a bit in the front.
      If I got the '06 struts that should help there right? Are they REALLY hard? Will it ruin the ride of the car? I would assume its only a slight change, and just a bit of improvement.

      Oh and I am still wondering what the deal with the ball joint remover is, do I really need that? As far as I can tell from that site, I just need some sockets, a spring compressor (if I dont have a mechanic swap the spings) and maybe a ball joint remover?

    3. #13
      Still love my daily driver
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      OK, I stand corrected...but I do know the Canadian 2007 Suzuki Swift+ is the same as the US Chevy Aveo hatch
      Icelandic Blue with "LOW VEO" tags

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    4. #14
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      Anybody else with some tips on struts?

      I got a PM from someone on here in which I will keep his name private, but he is telling me I am just a moron and can't drive a stick.

      To that, I say:
      200,000+ miles driving a standard vehicle (ATV/Motorcycle/Car/Truck/18Wheeler-twice, but I've done it)

      Never damaged ANY transmission.
      Never replaced a clutch. (Except for the 89 F250 that still had the original)


      The pot hole was UN-AVOIDABLE. I was in the left lane on the highway, 65MPH Zone doing maybe 57mph.
      I had cars on my right and one pretty much tailgating me. I would have rather have him hit me and get the insurance to cover everything than deal with a destroyed rim, tire, strut, and now have to go after the state. But I didn't have time to brake, it was on a downslope over a bridge, and the pothole is MASSIVE, I can't go back to take a picture of it for the state because there is no break down lane.

      He's telling me I can't drive a stick, and that's why I destroyed my strut.
      What the heck is that? I could not avoid it. And also- I have hit potholes in quite a few vehicles, and yes, they may have hit hard, but never have I done damage to a rim, nevermind a strut. This was a BIG hole, it seemed to be a recent "cave in" style hole, as if water was underneath and the road eventually gave way.

      So, with that being said- DO I need a ball joint remover, and how much do you think an Aveo Strut goes for? If I get the '04 strut I should not have to replace the passenger side, correct?

    5. #15
      Still love my daily driver
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      who cares what some dope says about your driving ability...you hit a pot hole, period

      Now you need to replace the struts...sounds liek you need to call the dealer and get some pricing
      Icelandic Blue with "LOW VEO" tags

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    6. #16
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      Yep, dope would be the correct description.
      Glad someone else on here agrees to just drop it!

      Should I go for the '06 struts? (stiffer, I heard?)

      You think I could trick them into warranting the strut?

    7. #17
      Still love my daily driver
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      I did the front springs on mine and dont remember needing a ball joint remover. Even the ball joints I have changed, I didn't need a ball joint remover. The trick is to use a 2.5 pound hammer on it. Not directly on it, you'll jack up the threads, but to hit the side where you won't mess it up. Usually on the metal control arm. The vibrations cause it to fall out.

    8. #18
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      Hah, thanks for the tip!

    9. #19
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      yeah dont use those dam forks, i have heard of so many people useing them and ****ing up and riping a whole in the rubber of the joint. what chad says is legit, you are not going to bend anything. just give it some good wacks.
      good luck

    10. #20
      Still love my daily driver
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      Quote Originally Posted by subachad
      I did the front springs on mine and dont remember needing a ball joint remover. Even the ball joints I have changed, I didn't need a ball joint remover. The trick is to use a 2.5 pound hammer on it. Not directly on it, you'll jack up the threads, but to hit the side where you won't mess it up. Usually on the metal control arm. The vibrations cause it to fall out.
      Could you use a deep socket over the threads and whack the socket? (protecting the threads but getting a solid square hit on it.)




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