This is my rear passenger side, I'm hearing clunking over bumps I'm guessing its the metal hitting metal
Is this a cheap fix? Iv'e heard you gotta replace whole rear axle? Which seems a little crazy to me.
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This is my rear passenger side, I'm hearing clunking over bumps I'm guessing its the metal hitting metal
Is this a cheap fix? Iv'e heard you gotta replace whole rear axle? Which seems a little crazy to me.
if you tried a search you would find its $40 for parts. I dont think anyone has paid a mechanic yet though.
So are you saying everyone has done it themselves? is it easy?Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
everyone here who has posted it has done the repair themselves. its an "easy" repair, but bushings ( pressing etc) can be a bitch.
Gotcha! Thanks!
I didn't realize there was any vw love on this site. One person speaks up and we all show up.
The mk3's are pretty much the same. It's the same process to change. I did my mk3 at 100k miles. I didn't realize how bad they were until the new ones were in. The old ones made it feel like the car had rear steering but that went away with the new ones.
Where i can find this part? Advance Auto Parts, Napa and etc they don't have bushing for sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
dont waste your time these above mentioned bushings are garbage they dont last replace rear axle new 360$
Hey folks...some potentially good news here. I was able to get mine done under warranty. My initial inquiry was denied, but in a subsequent conversation with the service/parts manager I made my point that it was absolutely ridiculous to have to replace the entire rear axle assembly for a couple of $20 bushings. I approached him with the VW bushing fix I found here on this site, and he asked me what I thought was a "fair" labor rate for such a job. I replied that with the right tools and a lift, it should probably take about 1 hour per side. At dealer labor rates around $96/hour, he said that if I would pay a $200 deductable he would see if the GM regional rep (or whoever is in charge of such things) would agree to changing out the axle with the new bushings. When
I got the "thumbs-up" I went ahead and just had it done. To my surprise, when I went in to pick up the car I was prepared to pay the $200 deductable which I agreed to, and he told me there was NO CHARGE,... that he was able to cover it under the 5 year / 100K powertrain warranty. My advice is to be persistent (and nice) to your dealer service manager.
What warranty did you use? the chevy one or another?
I'll have to look at my copy of the paperwork and see if there is some type of warranty code or something. It definitely
had something to do with the 5 year / 100,000 mile "powertrain" warranty. I know it sounds strange, because technically
the rear axle isn't really part of the "powertrain" as these are front wheel drive cars. All I know is, if there wasn't a job
code or something to reference on the repair order, I doubt he could have covered it under GM warranty. It's really refreshing
when you run across someone who is helpful, and instead of saying "we don't..." or "it can't..." says "I'll try..." I wanted to pass this along so others might be able to get theirs fixed under warranty. It is total BS that the "fix" for bad bushings is to replace the entire axle. But to be truthful, when I inquired about this, the bushings were referenced on an exploded view drawing and and had a note saying "NS" for "not serviced"...straight from the same service manager that covered the repair under warranty.
awesome man! if theres a code or something that would be nice im going to chevy soon so this could help possibly
Sorry for the delayed reply...when I come home from work, the last thing I want to do is sit down at a computer. I found the paperwork for the warranty repair. The code used was : 03CVZ Rear axle Warranty
I also asked the service advisor for my old axle back (if possible) so I can try out the bushing fix I found on this site without
having to do it crawling on the ground under the car. He says he has to keep the parts for a warranty repair for about 60 days until the dealer gets paid for the job, then scrap them. He also says he can "scrap" them into the bed of my pick-up after the
60 days has elapsed, so, I might have some further good news regarding the bushing replacement for others using this site. If
I can confirm the bushing size and fit...I will let you all know. But, if you are under the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty, by all
means, make GM replace the axle. It costs you nothing, and it's much easier.
Hello,
(First, sorry for my bad English. I come from Belgium and my mother language is french.)
I ve got the same problem as describe by JJ Money ." I'm hearing clunking over bumps, I'm guessing it's the metal hitting metal"
So could you explain me with other words which parts i have to replace and how can i do it? (technical words are very difficult to translate.)
And if I can abuse you a bit more: what's exactly the goal of the bushing part ("silent block" in french), have you got a picture or a view of this part and parts linked to it?
Last question: could help me to find the correct part reference for buying this article in belgium?
My car is :
manual Aveo LT 1400 gasoline 69kw 94CV. Built in 2008
Thanks a lot for your help.
Mechanic is a begining for me.
spirlet: are you sure it is the axle bushing (silent block)? there are several parts that could cause a cluck over bumps. I wouldn't want you to go to the trouble of putting a set of these in if it is some other part. Can you describe your issue?
AC delco part number is : 45G25066
I'm going to have to tackle this on my stepdad's sedan in the future. What does the tool that comes with the ebay kit look like?
Thud Slamrod : hello,
i don"t realy understand what you mean. Sorry
petrified.rabbit :
Hello,
due to difficulties to identify de trouble, i will go to the car workshop.
If i can i will post picture of defect part.
Thanks
Hi guys. I seem to have the same problem. Daughter had the Aveo at collage for a year. Comes back and the rear passenger side sounded like the shock come loose and was banging the wheel well every time I hit a bump.
Looked under the vehicle., shock seems to be tight and in working order. Only 30,000 miles on it. But nearly a 100,000 on the car.
Came to this board with underside pics of my aveo that look exactly like the OP`s pic in early in this post, so I wont post mine.
My car is a 2006 so no warrenty anymore. Looks like taking out the "trailing arm" is it? Wouldn't be easy.
Lars, I did mine with the axle still in the car. I removed the 4 bolts that attach the pivot point, one side at a time. I kept a floor jack under the trailing arm I had loose to prevent it from dropping too low, as well as having the car on jack stands. The hardest part for me was after using threaded rod and a variety of washers and pipes to pull the old bushing out was removing the sleeve that was part of the old bushing left in the axle tube. I couldn't find anything the right diameter to press it out, so I used a hack saw blade to cut the length of it. That allowed me to get under the edge of it to fold it and remove. The same combo or threaded rod and bits I used to press out the center of the old bushing allowed me to press the new one in.
Hi all,
Finally i've found a friend who replace my bushing. No problem to remove them (so broken). He had to cut on one. The difficulty was to put inside the new one.
The operation took around 2-3 hours and don't necessites to remove completly the rear arm.
Here some picture of my old bushing (replaced by AC delco part : 45G25066).
Attachment 8835
Attachment 8836
Attachment 8837
Attachment 8838
Hope that will help you. ;-)
good to see you visually found the issue and it was fixed.