Replacing struts and shocks

[snrusnak]

2004 aveo...

We've had a strange noise related to the wheel rotation lately, I though maybe wheel bearings or cv axles, but the shop that looked at it(free ) said it is due to the worn out struts(120,000 miles) causing tire cupping. So I bought brand new struts and rear shocks(gabriel) and strut mounting kit(duralast) from autozone for just over $300!!! I thought that was crazy cheap.

My question is this, I've watched someone do struts before a long time ago. I know I need to unbolt the struts from the spindle, disconnect anything else that may be attached(sway bar, etc), and unbolt the bolt on the strut tower, then gently take it apart/lower it down. Then use my spring compressor to hold the spring while I take the top of the strut apart, and move it to the new strut, etc.

Is there anything else I need to know? I know after done I will likely need an alignment, already planning on that. Just looking for any tips before I get into it...

Thanks!

[Aveo5_boy]

I know this is a cheap easy reply but there are numerous youtube how to's on shock replacements that you can refer to before you start the job.

[AveoJoe]

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/f...acement-10311/

[snrusnak]

I took a bunch of pics and will do a write up with pics later sometime. I know it's already been done but more info can't hurt, right...

[scinats]

I wanted to thank AveoJoe for this excellent post on how to replace struts. I'd never done a job like this, and at 217,000 miles, I thought I was in for a major headache. But thanks to this description and pictures, I made it through just fine. The information to be found in this forum is priceless! Thanks for the tech support AveoJoe!

[snrusnak]

Thanks. I just finished actually. Did the front struts and rear shocks took about 4 hours. My strut spring compressing tool got stuck/jambed some how and that sucked. Took me like 30-45 minutes to get it off then I had to go to autozone for a loaner tool. Pretty easy and straight forward job. We still have that slight clunk noise but I've already learned to live with that, the reason I wanted to replace them was because the worn out struts were causing tire cupping. I can tell it's much firmer though. I pushed all the old struts and shocks in and they didn't rebound at all, just stayed compressed.

[petrified.rabbit]

the clunking noise is most likely the sway bar / bushings. /but check the a arm bushings as well. (i would hope those are the only things not tested by the shop).

[snrusnak]

The sway bar end links seemed nice and tight. Not saying that's not it just doesn't seem like it. The other bushings and all seem fine. I'm not worried about it, everything is tight and it is all fine, just a little noise, no big deal...

[snrusnak]

Ok so a quick write up. Most of it is pretty easy, with a couple VERY important steps.

Parking brake engaged, in gear, block wheels, etc(be safe), lift car with jack and remove front tire/wheel. Back up the jack with a stand.

Disconnect sway bar end link from strut(IIRC you need a 15mm wrench behind and a 17mm socket in front):



Disconnect the brake line from the strut(it just pushes out).

Place a second jack under the control arm/spindle to hold it up once you disconnect the strut. I was extra cautious and put a piece of 2x4 in front of the rotor as well to keep it from falling forward. Disconnect the two bolts that hold the strut to the spindle(17mm bolt head and nut):





Remove the plastic cap on top of the strut top. Remove the top strut nut by holding the piston rod with a small socket(can't remember the size) and turning the nut with either a wrench or a pass through type socket/ratchet(IIRC it was a 19mm):



As you remove this nut hold the strut so it doesn't fall out.

That's all there is to removing the strut....

Will post the rest in additional posts to follow.

[snrusnak]

Now to install the strut.

push the strut back up into the strut tower. Place the new upper plate thing(sorry don't know the name) over the stem and loosely snug up the nut that holds it on:



Align the lower bolts that hold the strut to the spindle and slide the bolts on and loosely snug the nuts just to hold it all in place.

Tighten down the upper nut while holding the piston rod stem. Same photo as this:



Tighten the bolts that hold the strut to the spindle. Same photo as this:



Slide the brake line back in place.

Reattach the sway bar end link and tighten. Same photo as this:



That's pretty much it, you end up with this:



And the top should look like this:



Double and triple check everything. You might also need an alignment after wards, we did.