is there any for the 08 hatch? i want to lose the wheel hop.. or is there any other way around this..
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is there any for the 08 hatch? i want to lose the wheel hop.. or is there any other way around this..
Quote:
Filling the stock mounts is a pretty straight forward job. The biggest problem I had was figuring out what to fill them with. I did some searching and found this stuff, this is the real deal. You can get it at Grainger, it's $35 for a pound. It will fill all 3 mounts and you'll have some left over.
Devcon Flexane 94a:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...anetweaked.jpg
The first step is masking off the mounts. This is a critical part because you don't want the flexane pouring out everyhwere or else you'll be dishing out another 35 bones. I taped it off with duct tape and it worked fine. Note: I cut off the rubber stubs on one side of the tranny mount because it made it much easier to mask off the mount. Also, which ever side you mask off will have the print of the duct tape, so if you care about how the top mount looks make sure you mask the BACK of the mount. Other than that I didn't have any trouble masking them off, just make sure to tape it up good!
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...apedmounts.jpg
Next you have to mix the Flexane. There's instructions on the box and it's pretty easy to understand. Once mixed you'll have about 20 minutes before it's begins to harden. You don't have to hurry up but be aware that you won't have all day to play with it. Once mixed it'll have the consistency of motor oil.
Pour the urethane in to the mounts:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...lledmounts.jpg
And that's that! The full cure time is 7 days or you can heat them at 100 degrees for 24 hours(All this info is on the box) Once fully cured these suckers are stiff! I only installed the tranny mount and I can already tell a big difference in stiffness and vibration.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...1/IMG_1348.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ntedmount2.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...1/IMG_1566.jpg
obviously that isnt for the aveo but the theory is the same.
thanks man.. thats my next thing on my list after christmas.Quote:
Originally Posted by aveodude
put in the how to section plz!
-done-Quote:
Originally Posted by mikedudley17
Bringing the old thread back to life from the dead, as the vibrating motor mount(s) after shifting out of 1st and 2nd gear are more noticeable after I installed the second resonator and the exhaust got quieter.
Did anyone actually do this to Aveo motor mounts? If so, how well did it work? And do we actually have aftermarket options available? I remember seeing a link a while back for some orange aftermarket ones from Korea or Singapore, but can't seem to find the link anymore.
subachad has done this. i personally feel a redesign is necessary, the single horizontal bolt is always a pivot point, and transfers all the torque to the dogbone mount underneath.
Just read a few how-to's that I found with google, and in one of them they said not to fill the transmission mount 'cause it will transfer ALL the vibration to the car...
how much do you think a little 1.6 liter can vibrate?
i had solid aluminum mounts in my 16v gli.. i ended up using loctite on all the dash screws the second time it vibrated apart.. but it was still "livable" in fact the girl who bought it off me daily drives it with her kids and hasnt changed a thing.. 3? years later..
Ok, you have a point.. now i have to look for some polyurethane 94A stuff... another thing i read on one of those forums is that i should use brand new mounts 'cause the ones that are worn can keep engine off balance since they're off balance themselves and they'll stay that way if I fill them? :? not sure how true that is... can you shed some light on that too?
And I just looked through subachad's how-to on another site and he used windshield glue, which is supposed to be softer and not very heat resistant ( as in the heat will damage it prematurely or something of that sort) according to another how-to.
Off balance sounds like a load of crock. All mounts do is hold the engine in place.
94 is pretty hard, I'd rather go with something a little softer. You're already going to stiffen it up a fair amount by making it solid. Of course, I don't like vibration in the car...
I think it's lost in Internet speak. Like who's going to "fix" a mount that's not broken? But if it's broken the bolt center is out of place so if you fill it you'll reinforce it in the wrong position.
See what I am saying?
Yeah, that makes more sense.
Thank you for clarifying that. As far as hardness, they won't be solid, per se, they'll be just much stiffer if I understand correctly.
I used 3m Window Weld, similar but a little different. I agree about the redesign, I have had so many issues with my motor mounts. If I filled them when I bought the car I think I would have avoided most of my issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
> Mounting plate above the transmission which holds the transmission to the car mount broke, sheering off a bolt.
> Rubber was torn on Passenger side mount
> Rubber was torn on Driver side mount
> Transmission casing that the bracket for the dogbone mount broke.
> Two bolts fell out of the dog bone mount bracket. (they are 12mm X 1.25 X 90mm by the way)
> The third gets incredibly tight when I try to remove it so I was unable to take it out to figure out the bolt size which made for a simple bolt replacement being an order it, get the wrong part then order the right size process.
What I have done to address this
> 3m Window weld in all 3 mounts, definitely a much better feel, shifter barely moves. Slight increase in NVH, though not much.
> Customized the bracket for the trans mount using a smaller grade 8 bolt, not ideal but car was not driveable, if it breaks again I'll replace that piece.
> Added a smaller triangulated bracket to the trans to dog bone, you can see it in my building a brace brace article.
> Replace the 2 Bolts that fell out
Would you do it with 94A stuff if you were to re-do it? If so, why/why not? I'm deciding whether I wanna buy new mounts or not for this...Quote:
Originally Posted by subachad
I thought about using the polyurethane stuff but the window weld is only $15 from a local autoparts store and I needed it for some hood and roof glueing too. Next time I do it, I'll use the window weld again. I wouldn't mess around with the versions that don't require a caulking gun though as they are too runny. Also leave some air gaps for a little movement to keep noise levels down. If you don't there is still more give than the harder, likely louder, polyurethane.
That said, if you want to make a mold and produce polyurethane inserts to resale then polyurethane is the way to go.
you could try one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROTHANE ... 1860wt_962
even if it doesnt fit, you can cut it down on a lathe. but if its too small.. not much you can do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by petrified.rabbit
Use it where? How? This is not at all close to the current setup.
Are your different than mine? Looks close to being able to press into the passenger side mount. Maybe within 10mm of fitting without pulling the mount.
How about the other two mounts? :D
So I found this on eBay... I asked him if it's for the manual or automatic, and he said they will fit both transmissions. I'm sure they will bolt in there, but from what I've seen on rockauto.com and gmpartsdirect.com and other places, they are different part number... Any thoughts? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/04-08-Ch ... 141wt_1165
Also, which would you use and why, 80A shore hardness or 94A shore hardness and why?
umm... anyone?Quote:
Originally Posted by serega12
I'd like to order the stuff sometime this week, but would like to hear back from you guys first about which hardness polyurethane is better and why... and whether there's a difference in motor mounts between auto and manual in our case.
for he hardness, the harder mounts will vibrate more.
i think the parts of the mounts you are getting is the same, but the brackets that bolt to those are different. but cant say i rely on pictures on the internet posting like actual pictures for verification
good link, that shows the pitch mount and the passenger mount. The ebay link earlier is what my mounts look like. I have a 5sp. I don't know about the AT, I suspect the transmission mount is slightly different, but I don't know how.
Here is the picasa photo gallery link to the driver side. http://picasaweb.google.com/subachad/20 ... ntFilling#
I used the non caulking gun based window weld for this and it just got messy. As I said before the next set of mounts I do, I'll use window weld again, it's a very well spent $15 and a few hours of work.
Mine looks like that too, and the guys I bought it from said it works for both (that link above, got it for best offer of $139+shipping, so 10 bucks off)... we'll see when it arrives. I also ordered some Devcon Flexane 94 Liquid (1 LB) from Amazon... it ran me like $56 with shipping. Will be doing those as soon as all of it arrives. Looking forward to that.
Did you do this? Curious how it worked out.
Fastrakr - If you are asking me, yes all my mounts are filled with window weld. It was too late though, the extra grip from my tires i think caused my engine to move around too much which is why all my mounts broke in the first place. I had the trans mount fail again and am in the process of making a new bracket to mount the transmission to the stock transmission side mount replacing the two piece bracket. I'll start a new thread when it's done.
As for filling the mounts, don't fill them completely, it makes the car vibrate a little at idle and a little louder as well.
I wonder if there is anything softer that could be used. Improved performance but no vibrations.
a softer hardness urethane could be used, solid fill, more give.