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    Thread: How to replace INNER and outer tie rods

    1. #11
      The Lowest Static Aveo Melveo's Avatar
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      Im maxed out on coilovers and the angle alone beats the boots up, busted in first 2 weeks but still tight 8 months latet



    2. #12
      Should I keep it?
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      I'm currently in the middle of this job.

      See my dilemma on another post here: http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f85/i...mission-14159/

      However, I did want to share a little idea I had to help me with the tool that I rented. Much like OP I had the same problem with the tool sliding off because it was too big. I'm too cheap to go by the perfect fitting tool, so I also rented one, but from Autozone. Same tool though.

      Step 1) Buy some large washers.

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      Step 2) Slide washers onto inner tie rod. Push them all the way down to the ball joint.

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      Step 3) Put tool on around the tie rod "bolt" and these washers.

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      Step 4) Put zip tie around wrench and tie rod. Cut off the extra zip tie slack.

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      Step 5) Remove/Install tie rod from/into car.


      NOTE: The tool must fit on the "bolt" part of the tie rod. This only makes it so the tool doesn't slip off the bolt. I got the 1-5/16" adapter from Autozone: OEM Saginaw tie rod 27289- ReadReviews onOEM #27289

      You'll also need this pipe looking tool here: OEM 2 In 1 Inner Tie Rod End Tool 27024- Read3Reviews onOEM #27024

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      It will look like this all together

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      Last edited by gingerdyde; 11-20-2016 at 07:13 AM. Reason: Added note

    3. #13
      Should I keep it?
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      Everyone be careful when you do these inner tie rods!!

      I realized after it was too late that the two tie rods are NOT the same like all the parts places show. Here are some pictures showing the differences.

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      Notice that one has a bellows boot breather hole and the other does not. They also have different markings. The breather hole goes on the passenger side. The driver's bellows boot must breathe through the R&P gear, while the passenger side vents through the steering rod.

      Moog has updated their part to not include this hole. Only Auto 7 has the part listed as two different parts, the rest do not. However, the rest seem to just send out ones with the holes. If you installed one with a hole into the driver's side, no harm no foul. But if you installed one without a hole on the passenger side, you will either destroy that boot eventually, or in my case it seems air has forced its way into the rack, possibly destroying my seals.

      I'm hoping its not too late for my seals... but my plan to resolve this is to purchase one of these universal boots and run a hose between them outside of the rack. Obviously I used the red loctite so getting the old ones off will be damn near impossible.

      Multi-fitting steering rack gaiter

      Rakboot® – STRETCH CV Boots

    4. #14
      I'll keep it and add a turbo
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      I have always used heat to loosen / melt red LockTite . May have ti wrap a wet rag around some if it to prevent heat from migrating to places it should not be .

      God bless
      Wyr

    5. #15
      Should I keep it?
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      I just ended up solving this problem by buying the Mecatech universal steering rack boot I linked to above. They ended up having a distributor here in the US which they put me in touch with when I contacted them via their site.

      That boot fits our rack if you ever need a replacement and can't find any by the way.

      It has a vent port (that you can plug if you don't need it). I just ran a high temperature tube between the two vent ports and zip tied it really well to the rack. I basically created an external vent system kind of like many rack and pinions have. Seems to work fine.





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