I am changing my 2008 radiator now, and realized there are two different size radiators. I have the larger 23 5/8 inch one. the bottom AT cooler line connects with a large height nut to a small hose with clamp. I dont have the right radiator so I cant tell if I turn the but or pull the hose? I question pulling the hose because the tube its fit on is long; about almst 4 inches.
pull the hose. I went ahead and changed the AT lines for $1.50 a foot (takes one foot)
I did notice the upper hose (OE) was shorter than the replacement, so i cut to fit
also by looking at old radiator, I seen a long vertical mark where fan lays up against radiator. and brush marks from fan.
so...I added a couple of washers t help separate the both
My 2008, (hatch back, manual transmission, A/C) fan shroud bowed forward on the passenger side, contacting the radiator tubes, and rubbed holes in the radiator tubes.
I took out the fan shroud and the radiator. I put a straight edge on the passenger side of the fan shroud where it was contacting the radiator and it bows forward about 3/16" - 5mm.
I'm in a search for a replacement radiator for my Aveo (2008 Aveo5, M/T, AC) and I see there are radiators sold for With High-Capacity Heater and for Without High-Capacity Heater. Can someone offer insight on how this makes a difference when buying a replacement, other than cost?
Thanks
I remover my fan shroud and took a hot air heat blower/gun and heated up the fan shroud on the passenger side (USA) to bend it back a little past where it was originally straight and let it cool. It is now back to like new position/straight.
The fan shroud rubbed a small in the radiator coolant tubr and made a small leak. I bought some Low Temperature Aluminum Welding (brazing) Rods 8 Pc at Harbor Freight ($15.99-20%). I used my MAPP torch (Propane torch should work) to melt the aluminum brazing rod where it leaked (youtube video) and melted some thin fins and partially melted the coolant tube, which I quickly filled with the low temperature brazing rod. This fixed the problem and appears it would for a long time.
Just to be on the safe side (I live in an area where towns are 100miles apart) I decided to buy a new radiator. The local people wanted up to $150, so i went to the radiator and A/C warehouse. They wouldn't sell me a new radiator so we kind of had a few words about differences of opinions. No loss because even at wholesale, their price was much higher than what I found a new radiator on eBay.
I bought my new radiator from an eBay seller for $51.15. It was shipped fast and packaged well.
(RADIATOR FOR CHEVY PONTIAC SUZUKI FITS AVEO WAVE SWIFT 1.6 L4 4CYL with A/C) The radiator for the automatic transmission works for cars with manual transmissions, just ignore the transmission cooler lines. One tip to remember is you might have to use the old nuts where the fan shroud attach to the new radiator, from the old radiator. I had to reuse the top center fan shroud tin nut clip and one from the top side mounting position. This nut was a little tricky to remove and re-install once the radiator was installed in the car. Install the nuts and fan shroud before installing the radiator temporally. Putting the fan shroud on the radiator while the radiator is out in the open might take a little wiggling to get everything lined up, which is easier to do out in the open.
Installing the radiator was easy. The most difficult part was figuring out how to disconnect the the fan wires. To get more coolant out, (5yr change interval) I jacked up the right side of the car to drain more coolant out because it was time to change it. I reinstalled all the parts using 1 gallon of full strength DEX Cool and some distilled water.
I don't see any advertisements regarding heaters. Cars with air conditioning (or A/C option) need a larger capacity radiator. The best thing to do is measure the width and height of the radiator core (the aluminum part, not including the tanks on each side of the radiator and order or buy a radiator that matches your year of Aveo and the dimensions of your old radiator.
My car does not have A/C or an automatic transmission but it had the A/C option so I bought a radiator for a car with A/C and an automatic transmission. The automatic transmission works for both automatic transmissions and manual transmissions, just ignore the cooler lines. If you have an automatic transmission you have to have a radiator made for an automatic transmission.
I am tackling this job tonight as my rad sprang 2 leaks yesterday.
Auto version also. Just replaced the expansion tank 2 weeks as it had an hairline crack - guess the extra pressure in the system now showed up weaknesses in the old rad.
2012 model.
had a busy week with my cars - just finished removing and refitting an oil pan due to a stripped drain plug on a mutshubishi lancer!!
I'm knackered already before starting this 2nd job - will be after work and in the dark.
Wife needs the car asap.
It was going so well until I attempted to lift the rad out. It was still attached to the AC rad that was not supposed to be attached.
It had 4 bolts from the front totally inaccessible. I can see why people had to remove the AC lines.
After a couple of hours of struggle I managed to get the small 4 rusted 10mm screws out.
Had to remove part of the plastic undertray attached to the bumper etc to get into a tiny hole underneath.
On top I had to carefully bend the 2 rads just slightly forward enough to get a slim 10mm spanner through the gap from behind.
Pain in the butt. Not looking forward to doing the reverse and reattaching the plastic undertray part as 2 plastic clips broke
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