Timing belt change on 2006 Aveo LS: My new detailed write-up

[Markstack]

btw, the upper timing belt cover has three bolts, not two. the plastic is brittle and breaks easily as I just found out

thanks for your post, btw. excellent

[rrb6699]

you need a 2nd set of eyes several times during the procedure.

I guess some of them get brittle. mine didn't. now I have to do a friends 2005 timing belt. I sorta dread it but since I did mine I know how to do it. it took two of us with cam sprocket locks to get all the timing marks aligned.

I recommend getting the cam sprocket locks. they are loanable from AutoZone. also I recommend once the sprockets are locked tight before you remove your existing timing belt. when you put the new belt on, have some slack on the exhaust side down to the crank (towards front of car). make sure the crank is one tooth right of the mark before you get the new belt on. that way when you tighten the new belt with the water pump the crank will move into alignment with the mark (straight down).

also make sure you are at top dead center with the crank. remove #1 plug if you already removed your timing belt and stick a long screwdriver gently in the spark plug hole. when it rises to its highest point when turning the crank its at top dead center.

BUT, if you haven't removed your timing belt
(I recommend do things this way).

move ONLY the crank (bottom sprocket) with a 17mm ratchet clockwise until the timing marks on the top engine sprockets for the head cams face each other centered at their closest point. this will be top dead center. you may have to do two revolutions on the crank for this to happen.

then lock the top cam sprockets with the sprocket lock tool to hold the sprocket marks in line. at this point you can move the waterpump counterclockwise to loosen the timing belt enough to remove it.

at this point move the crank sprocket one tooth counterclockwise (right). put the new belt on from the top down leaving slack on the front side of the belt - towards the front of the vehicle.

once the belt is on move the water pump clockwise as far as it will go and hold it tight while you tighten the set screws. once it holds check the crank mark to see if its aligned. it should have moved back one tooth. at this point you need to check belt tightness. it should be fairly tight all around.

if it is, remove the sprocket lock and this is where you need a 2nd set of eyes. why? because you need to turn the crank clockwise while someone up top watches the timing marks to make sure they align every 2nd turn the crank mark lines up. if they do 2 or more times, your timing belt is done.

the only thing you have to do next is put the rear engine cover on, install the engine mount, roller, tensioner. now make sure at this point you check all the bolts for proper tightness. if you miss one it will work its way loose and damage the timing belt or worse after you start driving again. so, take your time and don't overlook anything before you put the front engine cover back on.

the rest is easy putting the harmonic balancer back on and the serpentine belt. once this is done you can put the other part of the engine mount back on and let the jack down holding the engine up. double check all bolts and put the wheel cover and wheel back on.

always inspect for chips on your roller grooves. sometimes bumps and scrapping can occur. if this happens just lightly file them smooth with a small fine file if there isnt too much damage.

that should get you to trying a start.