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Question guys, I have read through like 10 pages of info and have not come across it yet. I am looking at the contitech timing belt kits to do this job and they have quite a few. I am getting the one with a water pump included however I am stuck on whether I need the one with seals or not? Any advice on this? Thanks guys. This is the hardest job I have decided to do myself I have basic car skills.
When I did my replacement I bought the complete kit with water pump and timing belt. I didn't but the special wrench for the timing belt and regetted it a lot. I highly recommend getting it because it's a huge pain unless you have it.
Back to your question: does it say what seals it includes? The only thing I used was the gasket that came with the water pump- which any kit including a water pump should include.
The job is tough and takes a while, but be sure to take your time, double check everything, and when you get frustrated take a break before you eff something up. Besides the wrench I mentioned (Lisle 13500 I believe- 41mm), have a breaker bar/torque wrench and an Impact gun if possible- it will be a bit easier.
Also I personally found that having the timing marks slightly "dipped down" (both slightly lower than necessary) made it easier to have everything line up when putting tension on. Good luck- also if it matters I did it on a 2007.
you mean one tooth up on the intake and one tooth down on the exhaust cam. plus the crank should be one tooth right of center looking at it straight on. then clockwise tension the water pump.
I also noticed the crank wanted to move when I tensioned the water pump. it was the only way I could "trick" it into lining up.
On a different 2006, I removed the head and replaced the valves my nephew bent when he tried to move the marks with the key.
I have two questions. 1) with a new gasket set do I need any gasket maker too or just replace each gasket?
2) the valves dinged the piston tops with slight crease marks. everything else is fine just want to know if they will cause any problems if I reassemble.
One tooth up intake, one tooth down exhaust
Thanks for the advice! The seals the kit comes with would be camshaft and balance shaft seals... should I get this? I don't think I would even know what to do with it lol unless it's straightforward.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickjwes
btw, the upper timing belt cover has three bolts, not two. the plastic is brittle and breaks easily as I just found out :sad1:
thanks for your post, btw. excellent
you need a 2nd set of eyes several times during the procedure.
I guess some of them get brittle. mine didn't. now I have to do a friends 2005 timing belt. I sorta dread it but since I did mine I know how to do it. it took two of us with cam sprocket locks to get all the timing marks aligned.
I recommend getting the cam sprocket locks. they are loanable from AutoZone. also I recommend once the sprockets are locked tight before you remove your existing timing belt. when you put the new belt on, have some slack on the exhaust side down to the crank (towards front of car). make sure the crank is one tooth right of the mark before you get the new belt on. that way when you tighten the new belt with the water pump the crank will move into alignment with the mark (straight down).
also make sure you are at top dead center with the crank. remove #1 plug if you already removed your timing belt and stick a long screwdriver gently in the spark plug hole. when it rises to its highest point when turning the crank its at top dead center.
BUT, if you haven't removed your timing belt
(I recommend do things this way).
move ONLY the crank (bottom sprocket) with a 17mm ratchet clockwise until the timing marks on the top engine sprockets for the head cams face each other centered at their closest point. this will be top dead center. you may have to do two revolutions on the crank for this to happen.
then lock the top cam sprockets with the sprocket lock tool to hold the sprocket marks in line. at this point you can move the waterpump counterclockwise to loosen the timing belt enough to remove it.
at this point move the crank sprocket one tooth counterclockwise (right). put the new belt on from the top down leaving slack on the front side of the belt - towards the front of the vehicle.
once the belt is on move the water pump clockwise as far as it will go and hold it tight while you tighten the set screws. once it holds check the crank mark to see if its aligned. it should have moved back one tooth. at this point you need to check belt tightness. it should be fairly tight all around.
if it is, remove the sprocket lock and this is where you need a 2nd set of eyes. why? because you need to turn the crank clockwise while someone up top watches the timing marks to make sure they align every 2nd turn the crank mark lines up. if they do 2 or more times, your timing belt is done.
the only thing you have to do next is put the rear engine cover on, install the engine mount, roller, tensioner. now make sure at this point you check all the bolts for proper tightness. if you miss one it will work its way loose and damage the timing belt or worse after you start driving again. so, take your time and don't overlook anything before you put the front engine cover back on.
the rest is easy putting the harmonic balancer back on and the serpentine belt. once this is done you can put the other part of the engine mount back on and let the jack down holding the engine up. double check all bolts and put the wheel cover and wheel back on.
always inspect for chips on your roller grooves. sometimes bumps and scrapping can occur. if this happens just lightly file them smooth with a small fine file if there isnt too much damage.
that should get you to trying a start.
Guys I'm worried. I decided to take the cam pulleys off because I was having too much trouble getting the water pump off. When I removed the left one it moved a bit and unaligned. I turned it a few times to try to align it again and now I'm worried I messed it all up. The camshaft pulleys were rotated independent of each other and are not pointing directly up. How screwed am I? How do I fix this
Your not screwed, when you are ready to go back together, make sure the right cam is one tooth up and the left cam one tooth down so when you tighten the water pump it will line up, one or two tries and you should have it.
or align the marks on the pulleys, use the cam lock tool to lock the pulleys. make sure the #1 piston is at top dead center.
I even had to wedge a very short stubby flathead screwdriver between the cam locks to hold them in place. a long screwdriver wont allow you to slip the new timing belt back on the pulleys.
start from the top with water pump turned as far clockwise as it will go. you'll barely get the timing belt back on, but it will go. then make sure the crank pulley (bottom sprocket) is one tooth to the right (counterclockwise) from the mark. this will move a tooth when you tighten the waterpump. one handy thing I did was align the crank with its mark then put a white mark with a paint marker on the harmonic balancer. this because you cannot see the bottom mark when the harmonic balancer is on.
after the timing belt is back on you can and must turn the engine over with a 17mm 1/2" drive ratchet at least twice past the bottom timing mark while someone watches the top pulley marks to make sure they align every 2 rotations of the crank.