wouldnt there be a clicking noise or something all i can hear is the starter
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wouldnt there be a clicking noise or something all i can hear is the starter
Not always. Mine made no sound, but I had 4 bent valves, 2 intake and 2 exhaust on Cylinders 2 and 3. 0 compression when I rand a compression test.
ok ty i gotta tow it back to my house tomorrow and run the test and go from there
Good luck. I know a good shop here in Phoenix where I get all of my head work done at.
Let me know if you need his information.
I know it a long ways away, but he use to do top fuelers until he retired. Now he is only open 2 or 3 days a week.
He loves what he does.
You said you were just short of red line when the tensioner broke. If it were mine, I would skip the head and look for a new engine instead. But I'm just a DIY amature mechanic, and that's JMHO. Good luck, regardless how you choose to go with it.
Good point. When you remove the head, make sure and inspect your pistons. You may have put a valve through at least one of them.
so i did a compression test today and 1 and 2 had nothing i stopped there so looks like i will have to take the head off and see what happened and what i can save im starting a thread if anyone wants to keep tabs
Hi.. new here. 07 aveo... Really great guide. Im considering doing my own timing belt thanks to this but have a couple questions.
In the last step of tensioning the belt it says:
"...relieve tension until pointer A aligns exactly with pointer B. Tighten up the water pump bolts. You are done!"
My questions is, after that step, should the marks on the new belt once again line up with the notch and camshaft pulley marks?
Also, Im thinking of getting a timing belt kit with water pump to replace the old components so..
Is it easy to remove the old components (tensioner, idler, etc) and install the new ones? And is the oil pump in that general area, should I inspect it and how?
And what about the thermostat, is it there..should it be inspected/replaced?
Thanks for any help
i just did my 2008 timing belt, idlers, and water pump yesterday. when i adjusted the tension by rotating the water pump until the pointers coincided, the cam gear timing marks dial back into line. i rotated the engine from the crankshaft pulley 2 revolutions and checked that the cam gear timing marks were opposite each other with the crank timing mark on the tdc mark.
it took 5 hours working at a leisurely pace and taking breaks.
my owner's manual calls for a new timing belt at 60,000 miles. the car had 68,000 miles on it and the timing belt looked good. i could still read the red markings on the flat side and there was only a tiny bit of fraying of the teeth on the very edges.
due to the distructive nature of a belt breaking, it was cheap insurance. i located a gates timing belt kit with the water pump on ebay for $100.76 delivered, spent another $20 locally for a new serpentine belt, and about $12 for new antifreeze.
This DIY was done for a 2006, and I know the job is essentially the same for 04-06. I also know there are significant changes to the timing belt setup on the newer Aveos, and the timing belt change interval has been upped to 100K miles.Quote:
Originally Posted by lalahaha1
But I don't know where the '07 fits into all of this. So, before you using this guide, hopefully someone who knows for sure will post if this guide works 100% for an '07. Same for the Tstat. The plastic housing on the earlier years is garbage and should be replaced. But if your '07 has the metal one, there's no need to replace it until the stat itself goes bad.
Edit: Just read the next post on the '08, which probably means your '07 will also be able to use this same DIY.
The 07 is still at 60K. Mine did not make it, but the guide is great!
I used it when I replaced my head.
Not hard.....
Hi..thanks for the reply..yes the 07 is still 60k..either way dont wanna take a chance waiting..and i'll have to look for the thermostat and seeQuote:
Originally Posted by avguy
Im also wondering, before removing the old timing belt, how can I tell if the old belt had jumped out of time? I'm guessing the camshaft pulley notches wont directly line up or face directly opposite of each other even when the crankshaft pulley is lined up with its own notch, but I want to make sure..thanks
When your crank in in position, the cams should match. If they do not, than you have jumped a tooth or more.
If this is the case, run a compression test prior to changing the belt. If you do not have good compression on all cylinders, you may have a bent valve. When my belt broke, I ended up with 4 bent valves, and a bad head. I had to get a new one.
Great, thanks for the reply and a quick one at that!
Not a problem. On line and saw the e mail....
Hi, thanks for the replies so far.
I was reading another thread about removing the crankshaft pulley where it mentioned being careful NOT to remove the timing pulley (gear behind the crank pulley). How likely is that to happen when removing the crank pulley and what should I look for?
On a separate note, was learning about harmonic balancers. Is this the same as the crank pulley or is it something else entirely? Location?
Thanks.
07 Aveo.
If it comes off, do not worry.
There is a keyway that only allows it to go in the correct way!
Kinda fool proof.
The only problen I had was that the Keyway had worn off, and I had to get another from Autozone (Yes, I was shocked they could get it!).
Just take your time, and if you have any mechanical abilities, you will be fine.
If I may ask, what is your locations?
If you are near by and need a hand you can let me know.
Joe
Hi, thank you again. Im in Socal..quite a bit aways unfortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by vante@q.com
I'm confident I have enough mechanical ability to pull off the job but since I've never done it I do keep coming up with questions as I read more, since I do not want to assume anything.
If you dont mind, wanted to ask a couple more.
I have an automatic and I read that I cant step on the brake to stop the crank from turning over for bolt removal. I also do not have an impact wrench. But I read this guide: Common problems (where it says under #3 I can not get the crank bolt loose), to jam a screwdriver into a slot on the crank hub in order to keep it from turning over. It also adds a warning that the crank pulley has a outer metal ring that is attached to the inner hub by a layer of rubber, and that holding the pulley by the outer ring could break the rubber layer.
I've inserted a picture and labeled the ring, rubber, and layer to what I believe are the corresponding parts. But with that concern in mind, i was wondering, is this still a good method?
Attachment 6330
In regards to replacing the water pump, if I decide to remove the camshaft pulleys, do they have a keyway system (similar to the timing gear) where they only go back on one correct way, in order to (so to speak)
preserve the timing?
As far as a replacing tensioners, idler, and water pump, I was thinking of getting Gates TCKWP335. But I read that although the belt is good quality, the other components are "junk".
(such as post #7 and 18 on http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f82/t...uestion-13852/)
So at this point, I'm inclined to research more kits or buying the components individually but I'm very open to recommendations.
Thank you again.
I am a shade tree mechanic, with a good amount of tools.
If you can get your hands on an impact wrench, you will be in great shape.
I have had mine for more than 10 years, and cant think what life was like with out it!
The right tool makes all of the difference.
Also, get a good kit.
Gates is always good quality.
Totally agree about the right tool. But not sure if I'll be able to swing getting an impact wrench at this time..may look at renting an electric one, if thats possible, since I dont have a compressor.Quote:
Originally Posted by vante@q.com
I read the Gates kit water pump has a plastic impeller so Im wondering if it's a good idea. But I'll keep it in mind as I research other ones (such as CRP, Goodyear..)
Thanks again for your input.
I think that the Home Depot rents the electric ones.
Harbor Freight has one for sale that is a 1/2" drive for under $50.00.
Just a couple of options. Comes off in a minute!
Thanks, I'll definitely look into it...also currently researching inserting something into the flywheel..as soon as I found out what and where that is and whether it's effective.
Good Luck.
Keep me posted.
Joe
Great writeup!! It was truly the best thing I could find to assist in the belt change. In my case I had to reman the head because the belt tensioner broke. The belt was fine. I would suggest an addition: When adjusting the tension on the timing belt I found that just removing the alternator and laying to the side provided plenty room for a channel lock plier to turn the water pump. The water pump adjusting tool would have cost 40.00 bucks and the alternator method only took an extra 15 minutes.
+1 on the good write-up! Mad respect to those of you that don't do this sort of thing every day!!
Also, I appreciate the alternator tip. I will be adding this to my bag of tricks.
What is the reason for removing the motor mount? Is it holding the bottom timing belt cover in place?
I found access a lot easier to get at anything on that side of the engine with the MM out. I am sure you could hypothetically do it with the mount in place, but for the 2 mins it takes to get out it's worth it from an access perspective.Quote:
Originally Posted by Polluted
Need some advice here...
2006 Aveo, just given to me by my Dad. He was unaware of the timing belt issue on this car and never had it done. Its at 133K miles! Needless to say, he was fortunate. I have been following the guide and all WAS going well. I'm at the point where I need to rotate the water pump, and I've got a new one to replace it as well. Unfortunately, because this thing has gone twice as far as recommended and it has been baking in the Florida heat for 7 years, the water pump is cooked on there. I cannot rotate this thing for anything. I've cut the timing belt for better access, and I've got the special tool and using a breaker bar, even with a pipe on the end. I have I have tried penetrating oil, I've hammered the face of the pulley to try to vibrate it loose, and most recently I used a hand torch to put heat to it. Thing will not budge!! I'm frustrated and tired and don't know what else to do. Any thoughts, anyone?
Its the oring that is stuck, i hope you are replacing the water pump at that mileage. so pry it a little to pop the seal.
thanks rabbit. I do have a new water pump which is why I've been trying anything, including hammering, to get this old one off. I'll have to pick up a crowbar and try this tomorrow morning. It's hard to believe that none of the aforementioned methods had an effect and that a crowbar will, but I'll try anything at this point.
just a thought, but did you drain and open the coolant system? it might be held in there with "suction"
I can't imagine anything other than one or more of the WP bolts being capable of holding the pump on through all the stuff you're doing. Did you remove all 3 of the 5MM allen bolts? If so, the only other possibility is for the pump to be somehow rusted into the block. But, I can't imaging that being able to withstand hammer blows, without breaking up the corrosion. Edit: after posting I read Rabbit's reply - never occurred to me, but 16 psi might be enough to hold it in!
i did not drain the system. I couldnt find the drain plug and the instructions didnt call for it, so I didn't worry about it. All 3 5mm bolts are removed.
I had to use Vice Grips, and was able to slowly work it loose. I am in the Arizona Desert, so I know about the heat, and ours was at 100K when we acquired it, so I know the Baked On parts! Keep at it, and it will break free. about 30 minutes for me. Good Luck
Quote:
Originally Posted by skydriver2008
Open the hood and on the left (passenger) side of the radiator near the bottom is the drain plug for the coolant. If i remember correctly i think its either a 13 or 12 mm bolt.
I think Rabbit is right about the suction caused by not draining. I didn't think of that because I drained the system, and the old pump came off with hardly any effort. First try removing the coolant overflow cap and maybe that will be enough to allow it to move. If that doesn't help, then drain from the bottom of the rad. If you don't drain via the rad, be prepared to get a lot of coolant once the pump finally comes out!
That could be the case, but I had just replace the head, and my system had no fluid in it. When the ambient temps are over 120 each day, parts tend to be hard to remove. I just found a 69 camaro (Barn Find), and my Impact is having a lot of trouble. It has been sitting since the 80's.....
Found that, thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by Aveo5_boy
Good thought on the coolant system, guys, but that didn't work. This thing still won't budge. Everyone I've talked to, whether it's on here or mechanic relatives or the guy up the road, asks about missing a bolt. I've got all three 5mm hex bolts sitting right here with me. Guess I will try to pry it off now.