Try twisting, you might break something by prying.....Quote:
Originally Posted by skydriver2008
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Try twisting, you might break something by prying.....Quote:
Originally Posted by skydriver2008
Twist it with the wrench tool? I've been doing that to no avail...Quote:
Originally Posted by vante@q.com
Since the pump was being replaced, I used a large pair of vice grips that gave me enough leverage...
http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/t...8/IMG_1439.jpg
This is what we are looking at here. You can see the corrosion down at the bottom.
Yep, Mine was just as bad.....
Had to work it for about an hour to get it to break free.
You can pry if you want, but I do not like the idea myself.
Joe
I would also not pry it - the last thing you would want at this point is a nick or gouge in the block mating surface. Back-and-forth rotation using the tool should eventually bust up the crud. I'm trying to figure out how this could have happened. Perhaps a very slow ooze getting past the gasket? Not a big enough leak to be noticed, but enough to keep it damp, and build up a mass of rust and slag over time. In any case, you have the water pump from hell, and I hope this turns out ok for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by vante@q.com
Also, you can also try good 'ol WD-40 (Thank you, Army Corp of Engineers)... If I remember, I used that to help penetrate the grud....
Hi Im new here but found alot of great info. i did the timing belt on my 08 5 today thanks to this post it took me 3 hr did the water pump too. Great post thanks for the info.
For the automatic guys I found a little video that demonstrates the starter/breaker bar method.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O_6SFBg7_dg
the aveo is a clockwise side mounted engine and this method worked fine for me. The coil pack has a 3 wire connector that connects on the underside. Removing that will disable the ignition.
I wanted to thank all of those that had suggestions on how to get my water pump out. I simply ran out of time off to work on this, so unfortunately had to take it to a local shop to finish up the job. Here is a pic of the new vs. old, btw. Thats 133k miles on it.
http://i610.photobucket.com/albums/tt184/skydriver2008/970152_10100149089251138_1879278803_n.jpg
Attachment 6955
I am getting ready to change the timing belt on my 2006 LS Auto. Any tips on how to hold the crank pulley when torquing the bolt?
Automatic or manual tranny?Quote:
Originally Posted by andyinhilo
Automatic trans.
With the manual tranny you can just put it in gear and apply the brake, which is the method I used for the first belt change on my '05. But as the second belt change was approaching, I had my daughter's '06 automatic that was also coming due. So I looked around for some other method. Guys talk about removing the bolt with an impact tool, and they also must reinstall it the same way, but that's not for me. There is specific torque spec for the bolt, and I suspect it's there for a reason. If the FSM said "gun it off and gun it back on", I would have done it that way. For the guys who always do it this way, hey whatever floats your boat.
So in looking around for something else, I saw this thread from snrusnak.
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f82/h...ey-bolt-12448/
I was thinking about going this way, but started feeling uneasy about it. My daughter lives 900 miles away, and Murphy's law says that if something bad can happen, it will be when I'm away from my workbench and all the rest of my tools. I kept thinking about how nice and easy it was to remove the bolt on my other daughter's Honda Civic. The method Honda uses with the Pulley removal tool is IMO by far the best way to design this job. So I decided to experiment with trying to adapt that for the Aveos. Those results are described in this thread.
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f94/c...her-way-15189/
I did this the first time on my '05 with the security of being home, and then took the stuff on the road trip and did her '06 using the same setup. I'm not trying to push this on anyone, but will say that I'm really pleased with the way this all worked out. I fumbled around a bit trying to get it to work the first time, but in the end it functioned perfectly 4 times - 2 removals and 2 installs. So I can say for certain that it does work, even though it might sound like a hairball idea.
Now all of that said, you can probably do what snrusnak did and have it work out fine. Good luck, whichever way you go!
Thanks a bunch for this, It only took me 4 hours with my son.
I did break the plastic inner cover trying to get the old pump out. But whit all the bolts holding that sucker in place I don't think I will ever replace it now... lol...
And I used the old breaker bar and turning the engine over trick the get the bolt off the crank pulley.
http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/attac...95291770_n-jpg
Hey Guys,
I'm planning on doing the timing belt on my 2004 Chevy Aveo in a couple weekends. I'm just waiting on all the parts to ship. I have one question about the procedure.
When using he breaker bar to get the crank pulley off, do you use an extension? Or is your bar down under the car like in this video? How to use a breaker bar to remove a crank pulley bolt on a passenger facing, clockwise engine. - YouTube
I have a manual car so I can try the brakes thing and hope it works.
If you're using a gear and the brakes, an extension bar supported by a jackstand will make life much easier, for removal but especially for torquing it back on. I wonder if the guy in the vid used reverse to reinstall the bolt :confused2:
Does anyone know if the process is the same on an 09? I read all 14 pages and every time someone asked about a Gen 2 the only replies were about the 100k interval.
Also, is there a service manual I can get? I'm a bit old school and I like to have the book to refer to.
Thanks
Jason
I got two 5" and one 10" extension bars, put them all together and supported it with a jackstand. Thanks for the suggestion. My gf and I did it two Saturdays ago and everything went smooth.
Glad it went well for you - must have been the GF who did all the heavy thinking ;)
Just curious if that was the first belt change on your '04, and how many miles are on it.
lol Yup. She takes full credit. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by avguy
It actually wasn't the first timing belt change. Not sure how many times it was done before, but the water pump was an AC Delco and was in pretty decent condition. The timing belt didn't really look too frayed or anything. But I guess now we have peace of mind that it will be fine. The mileage on the car at the time of change was 384,000km.
We changed the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley and serpentine belt. We purged the coolant system as best as we could....(which was a pain in the ass).
Is it just me but the pictures in the write up are not there.
It's not just you. I sent a PM to the original poster, and am hoping for a response. If he's moved on to one of the BMW's in the pop-up ads, perhaps someone else saved the original post WITH pix???
WOW! Thanks! The pictures really help!
Another HOW-TO link:
Timing belt
with alternate suggestion on stopping crank pulley rotation.
As of 12/20: ALL DONE! To rephrase that: A L L D O N E ! ! ! !
Time, about 4.5 hrs, with time out for lunch.
Took advice about Lisle crowfoot wrench and 5mm Allen adapter for ratchet. Glad I did.
Everything was as described. Old belt not frayed or cracked, but marked "GM DAEWOO 96858745" . Idler seemed loose.
Waterpump clamp screws were hard to find. access to upper bolts on back timing belt cover was difficult. I left the cam gears in place. Waterpump came out from behind the cover ~fairly~ easily. 3/8 extension protruded through the crowfoot
wrench and snagged and broke some interior stiffening fins on back timing belt cover :(
Wasn't able to get "book" torque on crank bolt. It was about 70 ft/lb + 30deg, not 45.
Engine started smoothly.
Thanks again!
Done this, great write up, but my timing belt is walking off my cam sprockets when I crank the engine by hand...Any suggestions ? I've removed everything twice now and checked for cleanliness and alignment.
Are you using a torque wrench to tighten the 3 Allen WP bolts? If not, maybe you're not getting them tight enough. There's a side force from the tension of the belt pulling at the WP that's working against those bolts. That extra force might be throwing you off relative to how much torque to apply, especially the bottom bolt. And if the bolts aren't tight enough that might skew the WP just enough to allow the belt to walk. Only speculation here because I never had a belt walk on me, but I did use a torque wrench.Quote:
Originally Posted by djmarch
But if you're certain those bolt are tight, then keep the top timing belt cover off, have someone else start it up while you're watching the belt, and have a hand signal ready to get it shut down in a hurry if you see any movement of the belt at the sprockets.
No, I'm not using a torque wrench, but I'm tightening the 5mm hex bolts really tight. So tight that I'm afraid I might snap one off...What a poor design to use only (3), 5mm bolts to hold such a torsional load. It's walking off opposite of engine. Its walking off idler, tensioner, crank, and water pump as well. Could one of the cam sprockets be bent ? They are mounted to the camshaft correctly. Wish I had a magnetic base dial indicator to check the run out on the cam sprockets. I faught this all afternoon and know if I go with it as it is, will only shorten the life of the belt....Scratching my head on this. Would the belt tension be too tight ? The indicator points are aligned with each other. Too loose and I'm afraid the belt will jump a cog.
I can't imagine how you could have bent a cam pulley, unless you used a pry bar on one for some reason. And the tensioner pointers being lined up should always give the correct tension. Don't like to make this suggestion after everything you've already been through, but you may need to pull everything off and compare parts, and examine the belt tooth by tooth. Then, if nothing looks wrong you could reinstall the old parts to see if it's still walking off. If not, swap them back in, one at a time. I recommend that you get an in-lb torque wrench, because too tight on those WP bolts may squash the o ring down so much it will leak. And definitely get a new o ring before doing the final installation. You have a RPITA there - hope you get it figured out soon.
Also check idler and tensioner for installation. Tight? Crooked / dirt under mating surfaces?
When I tore into this, I was hearing noise coming from under the timing belt cover and knew I better change the belt as I was reaching 52,000 miles on the replacement done at a GM dealership. When I removed the covers, the belt had quite a bit of slack between the cam sprockets. Upon further investigation the tensioner indicator was at pre-install, and the water pump bolts were not tight. The old belt shown cracks between the cogs, so looks like I caught this just in time. I did not replace the water pump at this time, only re-placed the O-ring. I guess I'll pull the water pump again and turn the gear to see if I can see any wobble.
What you just wrote changes everything I had been previously thinking - my mistake in assuming you had replaced all 4 parts. And this new information makes your belt-walking problems very easy to diagnose. Your description of what you found indicates that the previous install was a hack job. With the belt having been running loose as you described, nothing was operating according to design, and the bearings in the WP and the 2 pulleys were likely stressed by the out-of-spec movement. At his point, I urge you to install a new WP, idler, and tensioner pulleys. I believe if you do that, there will be no more belt-walking.Quote:
Originally Posted by djmarch
Yes...avguy...Pulled the water pump out and the shaft wobbles in the casing...Wow...It's an AC Delco water pump at that. Thought the water pump would hold up until the next belt change by just changing the O-ring. Didn't take notice when I did...Shame on me..To all Aveo owners, replace the water pump as well when changing timing belt, idler and tensioner after very 50,000 miles. Terrible design..On top of that, you should never have an O-ring rotate against any surface.Quote:
Originally Posted by avguy
Glad you found it! You are REALLY fortunate in 2 ways. First that you did the job before the whole thing blew up (which sounds like it was really close). And second, that the belt was walking off like it did. If the WP hadn't been quite as bad as it was, you might have not know about the problem and just buttoned it back up. If that had happened, something would have surely failed not too far down the road. All you lost was some time, and had some anxiety attacks. Might be a good time to buy some lottery tickets ;)
Thanks avguy....Now that I've done this job, I'd recommend every Aveo owner that's mechanically inclined to do this. Don't be intimidated. It's not that bad of a job, since this is a routine maintenance on these cars. My suggestion would be change everything at intervals of 50,000 miles. Not 60,000...And buy quality parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by avguy
Got my new water pump from Rock Auto during the week and and got the aveo running today. Runs like a top, Idles between 8-900 rpms. but shifts real hard when going in R and D...Trying to figure out why this is happening when all I did was replace the timing belt and accessories. Never did this before the swap.
My '06 LT is at 96,000. Just did the timing belt and water pump yesterday with a friend. Took a total 8 hrs from start to test drive and I was working slow and methodically. I even had to work around a stripped timing belt cover bolt. This is the best write-up I've ever seen. Thank you so much.
Just wanted to say thanks for the excellent write up! I'm a decently competent mechanic and was able to complete the job in a little under 4 hours, taking a break here and there because it was HOT today.
The Aveo is a 2006 which belongs to my sister, who has been neglecting routine maintenance beyond oil changes since she bought it in 2009. I changed the timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley, and water pump with the Gates TCKWP335 kit. Also did the valve cover gasket and serpentine belt. The factory original parts had over 131,000 miles on them! The idler pulley had a visible crack in it and the belt was pretty loose.
I've tried to explain to her how lucky she was that I insisted on changing the belt before she drives the car across country next week, but to no avail.
Thanks for sparing me the cost of a repair manual!
the lisle water pump tool for this job can be had from oreillys for 19 bucks, part # 13500 Lisle,, also not in any post on any site did anyone say which way was off for the crank pully bolt, it is normal right hand thread, lefty loosey, righty tighty,, so go ahead take it off just as any normal bolt,, u know some are right threads,, some are left,, this is right hand ,,im just finishing up my daughters car,, gave it to her,, did not want her driving across country with an unknown number of miles on that belt,, buy thwat 20 dollar lisle tool make it part of your aveo kit,,, thanks for the write up,, cudn have done this job with out it,, oh the number is 13500 lisle,,, buck
Thanks for the write up. I bought a fixer upper 2004 Aveo for 800$ two weeks ago. I noticed there was a noise coming from the timing belt area so I ordered a timing belt kit just because the previous owner didn't know when the timing belt was replaced and he had it for 35k miles. When I got inside I noticed that the crankshaft gear was bent from one of the teeth and it caused the belt to wear out from the middle. Good thing I caught just in time before it snapped.
I went to autozone and oriellys to rent the water pump tool but they didn't have it so my dad came up with this idea to use a small combination Wrench and large screwdriver to apply tension to the water pump using the ridges in the pump.