Timing belt change on 2006 Aveo LS: My new detailed write-up

This is supposed to be a 60,000 mile part however I have had to replace 3 times in less than 60,000 miles this is an expensive fix since every time it breaks you have to replace the water pump also min fix cost is $550 once it even blew a head gasket so I ended up paying $2600 to get everything fixed and 2 of the 3 times the car has left me stranded on the side of the road in the dark. I am female so this is a huge concern for me. I take good care of this car and change out oil every 3000 miles the spark plugs every 10000 and rotate tires every oil change. I take it for the 90k 120k check ups. This car has not been neglected however has definitely let me down. The rest of my family owns Toyotas and they barely every have to take their cars for any repairs only change out the oil and take for a bath. I spend so much time in the shop and have spent now thousands on rental cars at this point it would have been cheaper for me to get an upgraded car and just go with the Toyota which will be my next choice. Here I bought this car because we are supposed to support American brands however this car wasn't even made in America so I guess the Korean's don't care if some woman half way across the world is stuck on the side of the road in the dark.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bann

This is supposed to be a 60,000 mile part however I have had to replace 3 times in less than 60,000 miles this is an expensive fix since every time it breaks you have to replace the water pump also min fix cost is $550 once it even blew a head gasket so I ended up paying $2600 to get everything fixed and 2 of the 3 times the car has left me stranded on the side of the road in the dark. I am female so this is a huge concern for me. I take good care of this car and change out oil every 3000 miles the spark plugs every 10000 and rotate tires every oil change. I take it for the 90k 120k check ups. This car has not been neglected however has definitely let me down. The rest of my family owns Toyotas and they barely every have to take their cars for any repairs only change out the oil and take for a bath. I spend so much time in the shop and have spent now thousands on rental cars at this point it would have been cheaper for me to get an upgraded car and just go with the Toyota which will be my next choice. Here I bought this car because we are supposed to support American brands however this car wasn't even made in America so I guess the Korean's don't care if some woman half way across the world is stuck on the side of the road in the dark.

---

IMO you have been getting some bad advice, along with much worse service from whatever shop you are taking your Aveo to.
First off, the water pump does not need to be replaced every time the belt is changed, unless it's damaged. Those of us who DIY this work tend to replace all 4 timing belt components every time, but only because it's not much more $$ for us to do so. A shop however is marking up the water pump along with the bill for the rest of the job, and the tab goes up in a hurry adding in the other parts. The general practice for those paying a shop is to have all 4 belt components changed every other interval (i.e. 120K).

Next, unless I'm misunderstanding, you had 3 belts break within one 60K mile interval. If so, somebody is doing something wrong on this job. These belts are made extremely well, are very durable and long-lasting, and rarely would one break for no reason. The 3 belts that I've changed (all over 60K) all looked brand new when they were removed. So I believe that either the mechanic is making a mistake on the installation, or one of the other 2 pulleys is defective. Unfortunately, there is of course no way to prove this after the fact.

Last but not least (again JMO), a quality repair shop that stands behind their work should be doing these repeated repairs at N/C to you. They should be trying to chase their parts supplier for partial or full reimbursement. The failure to do this is again a sign of an unprofessional shop. I believe these problems have nothing whatsoever to do with the quality of the Aveo - many of us who are not professional mechanics do this job with complete success.

I think you've been badly raked over the coals by this shop, even though they may be trying to put the blame elsewhere, such as on the Aveo or the parts. I advise you to ditch this shop and find another one to have your future work done.

I agree with Avguy; you need to find another shop. As a service manager, I can tell you a well run shop will have a good relationship with its suppliers and if a part failed, even outside of the basic warranty period, the supplier will step up to the plate and help out. Most shops have a fund set aside to help customers when things go wrong that are not really anybody's fault (crap happens) - my boss just did a goodwill engine on a Duramax ($12,000) because the rebuilder has a B.S. warranty. So you shouldn't be continually paying for the same repair. If the shop blames the car, it is a sign that the techs are too lazy to research the repair procedures - the engineering in these cars is sound. These engines were used in Europe for years before the Koreans started using them. Ask around to find a better shop.

Thank you Zubin, your instructions and photos are better than a Haines workshop Manual. I was able to replace my daughters Holden Barina TK timing belt (after much consternation as to why any engine designer in their right mind would incorporate the water pump into the valve drive system) with a sense of achievement, specially since I saved many hundreds of $$ as quoted by my local Holden service department.

Your idea about marking the new belt with white-out saved a lot of time and energy when trying to line up the belt for tensioning. I was also able to get away with using adjustable locking plumbing pliers instead of the special tool to rotate the water pump for tensioning.

I was also lucky (keeping my fingers crossed), that the water pump was in good shape and hence my considered decision to leave it alone (without completely removing it from the engine to replace the housing gasket). I would advise to readers to use their own judgment depending on the age of your Engine.

thanks muchly.

I replaced the seal on my water pump the last time I did this repair. No way I am touching that again. I had to remove the plastic that was covering up the water pump that was covered up by the valve gears. I love my aveo but after that process I really wanted to punch that engineer (committee).

I have experienced the miserable job of changing a 2006 timing belt twice over many miles and I spent the big dollars for a factory service manual, and I read many people's articles so I know what I'm talking about. This is a tough job and it took me a lot of hours and many days. It can be done but it is not a job for the weak at heart. Zubin Chandran's explanation is very good but I think I can add a couple very valuable additions to it. #1 don't waste your money on the expensive water pump tools J-42492-A or Sealy VS090 nor try to cheap out with a pair of channel lock pliers but instead spend the best $20 of your life on the Lisle 41 mm 13500 tool (see attached picture) and you will thank me. #2 If you are going to do this job buy yourself a new belt tensioner and water pump and for god sakes, make sure that every time you touch this job you buy a new water pump oring, and put some clean engine oil on it before installing, being cheap is a stupid idea when you are this deep in to the engine. #3 make 100% sure that your timing marks on the two cams and the crank all line up perfectly (see attached picture #4 you can remove the water pump with the lousy plastic inner timing cover still bolted in place at the top but you have to be very patient and be a contortionist, it can be done. #5 The most important step which Chandran describes well but does not show well-the procedure for adjusting the water pump marks (see my attached pictures). When you first put everything together you want to turn the water pump until the front pointed marker lines up with the U-shaped depression in the rear piece of the tensioner, and then, as Chandran's writeup reads you want to gently turn the engine over twice and then gently loosen the water pump bolts and turn the water pump counterclockwise with the Lisle tool until the front pointed marker lines up with the rear pointed marker (see attached picture). Then, because I fretted to death about this because I didn't want to bend a valve, I turned the engine over by hand time and time again watching the cam pointer line up to each other and seeing the crank pointer at the bottom line up to it's mark and watching the front and rear pointers on the tensioner move around a bit. You want to put a lot of patience and time in to this or you'll screw yourself. Kevin Lambert
L88@email.com

So, I'm looking at doing this soon, but I just can't see myself doing that myself, at least not right now and it's our only vehicle so if I do it wrong... you get the picture

About how much am I looking to spend for just the belt and how much for both belt and pump, I saw a figure of 300/800

Would it be worth it to buy the parts myself and have the shop put it in or is the markup not high enough to warrant that? (wouldn't care if it'd save me a whole 20 bucks and I'd still be paying close to 800 dollars)

Reading the thread I saw a comment about first gen and second gen Aveos, second gen replacement being at 100k, is a 08 first or second gen?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Valalvax

Reading the thread I saw a comment about first gen and second gen Aveos, second gen replacement being at 100k, is a 08 first or second gen?

---

You want to buy a kit. On Rock Auto they range between 70 to 110 including water pump.

You did not mention your year, so I am assuming 2008. Here is a link to a kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP335...eo+timing+belt

So that should get you in the ball park price. Most shops don't bother marking up parts (not too much). So if they are charging hundreds for the part, then you need to go elsewhere.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by xintersecty

You want to buy a kit. On Rock Auto they range between 70 to 110 including water pump.

You did not mention your year, so I am assuming 2008. Here is a link to a kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP335...eo+timing+belt

So that should get you in the ball park price. Most shops don't bother marking up parts (not too much). So if they are charging hundreds for the part, then you need to go elsewhere.

---

Yea, 2008, I guess I should have said that first

I always assumed they overcharge on the parts... but if they don't there's no reason for me to get the parts myself when the shop can get them for me lol

Yeah, but get a quote first. It's actually an easy replace. It's tedious and there is not too much in the way. However if you have to replace the water pump, that's a bitch as you have to take off the cam gears. They don't break easily and then there is that crap plastic in the way.

But since I don't trust mechanics, it's takes a lot for me to part with my cold hard cash to give to a mechanic.

A 2008 is a 1st generation. They have much more fragile timing belt related pieces. Unfortunately a lot of owners find out about the 60,000 mile change after its too late.

Hi, I just finished doing the timing belt on my girlfriends aveo. All went well. I started running the engine to circulate the coolant, and slowly a rubbing sound turned up. It increased until I turned the engine off. I checked under the belt cover, and the belt has worked its way off the centre of the pulleys, away from the outer cover. I put brand new tensioner and idler, and I was pretty happy with how they were sitting. Could it be the water pump? What do you suggest I do?

Thanks

First check to see that the 3 allen bolts of the WP are all torqued correctly (best done with an inch torque wrench), and that the tension is still corect (i.e. pointers align). If those are ok, then the other possibilities that come to mind are a defective part, debris stuck in the belt, or one of the other parts not torqued down flat to the block.

Many thanks for this write-up. You were very through. just got my belt done a couple days ago using this. much better then the instructions from All-data i printed off from work.

I have the 09 Chevrolet Aveo LS with the goofy cam please can you tell me if these are the actual timing marks

I have the 09 Chevy Aveo LS and its got the goofy cam pulleys here's a photo are these the actual timing marks

I like your detail and instructional write up and was wondering if there is a book like this i could have so i can do evrything else that needs worked on thanks

Aveo DiY: Timing belt swap, how I did it.

When I did this I followed some advice by a master tech that ended up with me having a timing belt off and the motor spun so I wasn't sure of timing.

After having a minor breakdown I called one of my best friends who talked me off the ledge (metaphorically of course).

He basically instructed me to find cylinder one (far left side of engine bay-aka Passenger side) and with the spark plug out lower a slim item that won't damage anything (I used a wooden dowel) spin the motor until cylinder 1 is TDC with the timing marks aligned. If you are uncertain you can mark the dowel and compare the depth to the other 3 cylinders. If I recall cylinder 1 and 3 are both at TDC simultaneously.

Jut thought I would share that tidbit and everything came back together fine after that without issues since.

ALSO- be patient and order the water pump wrench or at least spend time with decent materials fabricating one....this was a real time waster for me as I nearly ruined a water pump trying to adjust it with improper tools.

And take it easy on the radiator stopcock, it can be a pain but with finesse the plastic wont break on you.

Had the dealer do mine and they removed the valve cover to get another cover off as they said trying to get the water pump out of a small hole in timing cover was almost impossible. Just something to keep in mind. They tore the gasket as I had replaced it and sealed around the spark plug towers with RTV as the factory gasket had leaked oil into spark plug wells and fouled a few plugs. The gasket design for the spark plug wells is kind of poor and having the wells extend above the valve cover and sealing around them would have prevented oil from leaking down into the spark plug wells.

Needed to change the water pump. but when I put the timing belt back, my timing marks are all off. I thought I was careful putting the belt on. don't know how the camshafts got changed.
anyway, I couldn't work on it due to darkness.

what do I need to do to set them back in synch?

If you look on the forum there are links to download the service manual. It will show you how to align everything properly.

I got them lined up. but, my nephew already bent the intake valves. I wasn't getting any compression so removed the valve cover and 5 intake valves not touching the cam.

gonna remove the head this weekend. any shortcuts to this or is it as bad as it seems. I did a 32 valve engine before but never this engine. does the "E" in etech stand for "expendible".
I was gonna ask if there were other non-etech engines that fit in a 2005 Aveo?

If i was you, I would try to find a wrecked Aveo in a junkyard and use that head. Aveos in my local junkyard get picked clean. Most of the things I've replace or add comes from the junkyard anyways

I'll sell you my old motor (153k and needs a new timing belt but still runs-1 tooth off and needs a TB replacement) for $250 OBO

ok, the guy who was with him says the car was never started. this was just a crank to move timing marks. not a high speed or driving failure. whats wrong with reworking the head and having a shop do the valves? this head is good. he just bent 5 intake valves.

??

Is it critical to line up the cam gears and crankshaft perfectly before I put the timing belt on? The left and right cam gears have their marks pointing one tooth up and the other one tooth down from the center. Do I need to correct this?

Also, when I attempt to tighten the belt up using the water pump, the notch on the tensioner doesnt budge. I tighten up the belt as much as I could until the water pump won't turn any more, and the notch doesn't move. However, the belt feels very tight.

Advice greatly appreciated.. going out of my mind trying to fix this thing all day. I should also say the I had been rotating individual cam gears independently in complete revolutions to try lining up marks, this doesnt mean I bent any valves, does it? I made sure that the crank shaft was pointing straight down when I did this.

Yes, the marks need to align perfectly. The tensioner arrow should move as you tighten the belt when rotating the water pump. Turn the crank 360 at least 3 times and visually check your marks to verify everything.

so nothing should be bent right?

weird how I tightened the water pump until it won't turn anymore and the notch on the tensioner still doesn't budge. any ideas?

Buy a new automatic tensioner almost grenaded my engine by breaking the bolts to the block that whole the inner mount. I put fresh everything when that happened just in case the old one was bad. Maxed out on coilovers. That's why they broke

Did you check to make sure the pointer mechanism on the tensioner pulley moves all the way to the overlapped position if you push on it with your fingers?

You won't be able to push hard enough, I tried did not work.Attachment 10641

I couldn't mark the belt so I had to put it back on by hand. Wasn't really that hard but when I cut the belt I messed up the delicate tensioner. It's plastic and a tiny spring on the inside. Had the same promblem with the pointer not moving but a fresh tensioner and it was a peice of cake. Car is still running strong despite punishment of being staticAttachment 10642

so I did the job. starts fine and accelerates fine, but the car now jerks a bit when sitting still in drive. does the same in park but much less. when I am actually driving though it feels fine. could this be because of something wrong with the timing belt job I just did? say I was off a tooth, could that cause this?

I had the throttle body exposed to open air for a week or so, maybe moisture in the engine could cause this? what you guys think?

Im sure if you was a tooth it wouldn't keep running. Check the trans fluid. The moisture in the throttle body wouldn't cause something like that, not sure I drive a manual

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nostromo

...the car now jerks a bit when sitting still in drive. does the same in park but much less....

---

Did you torque all (on both parts) of the motor mount bolts and nuts to spec? Also, on the same subject, how about the harmonic balancer bolt?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by avguy

Did you torque all (on both parts) of the motor mount bolts and nuts to spec? Also, on the same subject, how about the harmonic balancer bolt?

---

85 ft lb on harmonic balancer, the motor mounts as tight as I could go by hand. Should I have another go with a breaker bar? Im sure I got it to at least the 50 it calls for. Could this be caused by overtightening?

so after driving for roughly 10km the car died. I restarted I and drove it home, died halfway home, restarted it again and put it in the parking lot. I have no idea what is wrong.

think im just going to take it to a mechanic. if I drove it there could I damage the engine?

I used a battery impact with built in torque settings. Wish you could post a pic of your lines on the cams

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nostromo

so after driving for roughly 10km the car died. I restarted I and drove it home, died halfway home, restarted it again and put it in the parking lot. I have no idea what is wrong. think im just going to take it to a mechanic. if I drove it there could I damage the engine?

---

I'm puzzled by what you wrote about tightening the bolts. You said 85 on the harmonic balancer (which should actually be 70 + torque-to-angles of 30 and 15). Did you pin the flywheel in order to get the 85? And, if you used a torque wrench on that bolt, why not also on the motor mount bolts? How about the timing belt components - did you use a torque wrench on those? Hopefully you did, because the timing belt is not a good place for guesswork.


Unless you can determine that it's something else, the possibility exists that something is wrong in the timing belt loop. Therefore, with the further possibility of it getting worse and trashing valves, I'd recommend you have it towed instead of starting it again.