Timing belt change on 2006 Aveo LS: My new detailed write-up

[gingerdyde]

Well damn! Last night I got everything back together and ran the car and the whining noise I had was gone. I was super happy. Then this morning I went on a hour drive and it's back. This is with all new timing components (again). When I took off the serpentine belt last time the noise was definitely still there. However, when I pulled the last water pump off I could hear it whining in my hand. So maybe I had multiple things whining. Definitely going to pull the serpentine belt again when I get a chance... As a side note I noticed the alternator had a high pitched whine that coincided with the headlights last night, so I'm wondering if that bearing is going bad and whining under load and when it has heated up.

[KevinA]

What happened to the pictures?
I'm purchasing the tools and parts but I can't find the lbs required on the timing belt anywhere.
Thanks

[Melveo]

There are a few post on here with pictures. My facebook is Melvin Lunsford if you need a close knowledgable person. My car is on the profile pic.

[TimE]

What happened to the pictures?

Looks like we've lost the the domain aveoclub.net Did anybody save the pictures off-line for the walk-through? They were so complete! It would be a shame if we lost them.

[Melveo]

archive is the last tab at the top

[scottyp]

For newer models things are a little different. I have a 2011 and you need a different type of cam locking tool, I got mine on eBay for about $20. The 2011 has the water pump separate from the timing belt, it is to the right of the timing belt and is powered by the serpentine belt. The newer tensioner pulley on the timing belt no longer required the adjustment to the "a" "b" and "c" positions you just install and it works just like a tensioner on a serpentine belt. You do still need to carefully put the new timing belt on keeping everything lined up and the method of making marks on the belt and pulleys and transferring them to the new belt works great. I just wanted to add my thoughts so no one else does what I did to try to prepare for this procedure and end up with several tools that don't work and are unnecessary. The camlocking tool for older models will not work for newer ones due the the variable valve timing paraphernalia in the cam pulleys and the water pump tools are totally unnecessary.

[KevinA]

Well damn! Last night I got everything back together and ran the car and the whining noise I had was gone. I was super happy. Then this morning I went on a hour drive and it's back. This is with all new timing components (again). When I took off the serpentine belt last time the noise was definitely still there. However, when I pulled the last water pump off I could hear it whining in my hand. So maybe I had multiple things whining. Definitely going to pull the serpentine belt again when I get a chance... As a side note I noticed the alternator had a high pitched whine that coincided with the headlights last night, so I'm wondering if that bearing is going bad and whining under load and when it has heated up.

I experienced the same on my Ford F350, alternator, power steering, and then finally, the water pump. Major PIA and expensive.

[Ombibulous]

I'm in the midst of changing out the timing belt on my '05, since I started to hear some ominous rattling coming from the front of the engine lately. Tried to find the pics from the original (and very helpful) writeup on the archive page to no avail. Very unfortunate if they're lost. Is there any way they can be recovered?

My Aveo runs fine except it "lopes" during idle. I've suspected it was because whoever replaced the timing belt last didn't line up the marks properly. So I've got the covers off and I think my suspicions are confirmed. Looks like they're both off by a tooth. When I put the new belt on, I'll rotate the camshafts so the marks are directly opposite each other and as close as possible - 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Is there anything else I should do?

The crankshaft timing mark lined up with the notch on the inner cover: (Sorry it's sideways.)



Camshaft marks. These should be directly opposite each other in the 3 o'clock/9 o'clock position, correct?

[Melveo]

I think cams are on backwards I believe.

[JB_Fraser]

Intake (circles) to the left and exhaust (ovals) to the right is correct.
It is definately off as the OP indicated.

When I did mine it was aligned perfectly (you can take a straight edge ruler and split both Cam shafts in the center and both marks should be as you say (3,o'clock and 9 o'clock) and align with the straight edge ruler.
Since mine were aligned properly , I marked my belt and pulleys at the 12 o'clock position on both cams and around the 4 o'clock position on the crank pulley with a 'sharpie' as additional alignment (I used a purple sharpie or use white out)transferred these marks to the new belt and reinstalled.
The benefit of doing this is you know the tooth count/pitch and tension are correct and when you tension the water pump any slack taken up should not throw off your timing (I suspect this may have happened to the person who installed this previously). It is easy to happen.

if I was to do this again I would definitely follow ,'avguys' suggestion to lock down the serpentine pulley before removing the crankbolt, but your beyond this point now. Follow the proper tensioning procedures and you should be fine.
I did my cam seals (since they were in the kit) but can be a PITA if you don't have the proper tools.
Some swear by the 40 mm water pump adjustment tool (I made mine on my mill) but you can probably get by with channel lock pliers. I would make sure I had a 5mm Allen from a socket drive as it will make loosening and tightening the water pump much easier.

Cheers and Good Luck !