stupid ricer brochure

well i was driving my car today thinking about some mods to do to make my aveo little more...enjoyable *namely LED placement lol* and i was thinking of all the people that have modded their vehicles *mostly civic's and a grand am*...so hope you guys can share a laugh....



WARNING SIGNS FOR A STUPID RICER

-consider only mods done are intake/exhaust

-believes walmart sells true "racing parts"

-believe they have their vehicle tuned to need higher octane fuel, but have never done an actual compression test...or have done any mods that would actually increase compression

-spray paint...'nuff said

-belief that spark plugs will add horsepower when engine is un-modded and stock plugs have nothing wrong

-talk about how they drift their fwd cars

-talk about waiting for it to rain so they can drift again

-slam their car by cutting stock springs and keeping stock struts, even after changing to after market springs

WAYS TO STILL DO RICER THINGS WITHOUT BEING LABELED A RICER

-if you drift FWD don't brag about it

-understand that getting a new muffler only makes your car louder, making your exhaust less restrictive doesn't add horse on a stock engine..it will actually lower it in some cases

-intakes are o.k. as long as you know it doesn't make your engine "built"

-use performance spark plug wires only as engine dress up

-if you have a loud stereo... conceal it or it will most likely get stolen





-my interpretation of ricers and how to avoid the label :)

..if you have something to add to the list please do so...if your have something to argue please do. I'd love to productively* argue back :)

how about those horribly visible neon tubes. oh and 20" neons are meant for the INTERIOR, not for UNDERCAR!

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Originally Posted by Alex

-talk about how they drift their fwd cars

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YES YES YES

And how they want ram air hood scoops cuz they think the STI hood scoop is for the air intake. For the love of God, it's NOT!!!!! It's for the intercooler!!

you forgot those incredibly obnoxious spoilers!!!

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Originally Posted by Alex

-believe they have their vehicle tuned to need higher octane fuel, but have never done an actual compression test...or have done any mods that would actually increase compression

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most people that want to use higher octane fuel do it so they can advance the ignition spark to gain power...so you dont really only need to test or add compression to use high octane

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Originally Posted by AVE0SAM

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Originally Posted by Alex

-believe they have their vehicle tuned to need higher octane fuel, but have never done an actual compression test...or have done any mods that would actually increase compression

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most people that want to use higher octane fuel do it so they can advance the ignition spark to gain power...so you dont really only need to test or add compression to use high octane

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please explain.

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Originally Posted by Alex

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Originally Posted by AVE0SAM

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Originally Posted by Alex

-believe they have their vehicle tuned to need higher octane fuel, but have never done an actual compression test...or have done any mods that would actually increase compression

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most people that want to use higher octane fuel do it so they can advance the ignition spark to gain power...so you dont really only need to test or add compression to use high octane

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please explain.

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+1

by advancing timing, you increase your chances of detonation, hence why you need higher octane rated gas. Just the opposite as when detonation occurs, by which your knock sensor will retard the timing.

[nitpick]

You can advance the timing as much as you want and it's not going to detonate. Traditionally detonation/knocking is the air/fuel mixture igniting without a spark (too much heat due to compression). The "knocking" bit happens when you have preignition due to heat... and secondary ignition due to the spark plug. When the two flame fronts collide, you get a "knock."

[/nitpick]

With advanced ignition timing you want to use a higher octane (slower burning) fuel so that the flame front doesn't hit the piston before it's TDC, to prevent damage to the rod/piston/bearing. This will generally push your peak power to a lower rpm.

but once again...how does that even produce more power? and still it doesn't seem like higher octane fuel would even matter... since higher octane fuel was intended for when the engine runs hot *compression = friction = heat = pre-detonation similar to that of a diesel* and considering that all your doing is changing the timing of the spark...which will detonate the fuel regardless of the octane content. so really i don't see how this would increase power.

and to back up my statement i just read the article on howstuffworks.com about octane ratings and even they mention that the purpose of higher octane is so in a 4 stoke engine the fuel does not pre-ignite during the compression stroke. and they only ever mention having higher octane in a higher compression engine so that it does not pre-ignite. if you wanna read the article to know i'm not BSing

How Octane Works